Teraflex high steer knuckles

'97 XJ, AX15, 231, D30/8.25 - RE 4.5" lift

steering is shot and needs replacement all the way around. so are my ball joints. as i replace things i want them to out last the jeep which is on borrowed time really. stock geometry is fine for me, and i was thinking currie. but if im going to be doing ball joints, at the same time (and for a little more) is there any reason not to run the teraflex system?

ideally id like to keep my stock track bar location on the axle and steering stabalizer mount. but with the fresh parts couldnt i eliminate the stabalizer all together? also, i run no pitman arm drop drop, RE track bar (not double sheer, heim at frame side), and 15" rims with 4" backspacing?

will it fit? any issues with clearance or geometry? :dunno: i cant tell from their PDFs, all it says is "maybe this... and maybe that..." and if itll fit, why not?

We use the Teraflex Cross-over steering passenger knuckle on our mud racing XJs. Then used solid rods for the drag link and tie rod with Chevy TREs.

The Terfaflex CO knuckles require raising the track-bar mount on the axle and re-location of the anti-sway bar mounts. Their design also places undue stress on the drag link TRE at the knuckle. This offset can lead to premature wear on the TRE and potential steering box issues.

Some have also had to use a modified tie rod to clear their differential cover. Mountain Off-Road and JB4x4 also have raised steering brackets for the D30 knuckles if you wish to use a bolt-on method.

I would not recommend their aluminium drag link and tie rod. The threads are not as strong.

We purchased the knuckle here:

http://www.sams4x4store.com/HighSteer.htm#Tera_Dana_30_YJ_&_TJ_High_Steer_System_

You'll be much better off doing the WJ brake swap, which will give you high steer and vastly improved braking. I don't run a steering stabilizer on mine with the WJ setup, fwiw.

VAhasnoWAVES said:

'97 XJ, AX15, 231, D30/8.25 - RE 4.5" lift

steering is shot and needs replacement all the way around. so are my ball joints. as i replace things i want them to out last the jeep which is on borrowed time really. stock geometry is fine for me, and i was thinking currie. but if im going to be doing ball joints, at the same time (and for a little more) is there any reason not to run the teraflex system?

ideally id like to keep my stock track bar location on the axle and steering stabalizer mount. but with the fresh parts couldnt i eliminate the stabalizer all together? also, i run no pitman arm drop drop, RE track bar (not double sheer, heim at frame side), and 15" rims with 4" backspacing?

will it fit? any issues with clearance or geometry? :dunno: i cant tell from their PDFs, all it says is "maybe this... and maybe that..." and if itll fit, why not?

Click to expand...

I run this exact set up. It was on the axle when I bought it Well the tie rod was bent to hell, so I ditched the alum. links and built my own out of 1.5" .250 wall DOM, ALOT stronger. Its a good set up and alot stronger then other out there. THe problem you have it that you cant use swaybar links because you have to cut them off. You loose some turn radius with it. If you have a aftermarket diff cover say goodbye to that because it will hit, it almost hits the stock cover, I have link 1/8" from hitting it. and you have to build a steering stabalizer mount. You dont need one but everytime you hit a bumb, or anything the TRE taking the hit. A SS will help prolong the life of them. I like it and it was already on the axle but I wouldent buy it. Im good friends with the guy who runs CRANE here in denver, and he never recommends it. I would guy the WJ set up first. or the IRO.

the appeal of the teraflex system is the bolt on application. but it sounds like its far from it. id be content with redoing the sway bar mounts, but as i said, do not wish to mess with the track bar mount. also, the aluminium links would last until something better could be slapped in. my jeep sees 95% street miles in all honesty, im in college. the jeep only sees mild use on and off. im perfectly content with an UTK setup... for the price, would the JCR 1-ton setup be a better option for my application?

XJEEPER said:

You'll be much better off doing the WJ brake swap, which will give you high steer and vastly improved braking. I don't run a steering stabilizer on mine with the WJ setup, fwiw.

Click to expand...

i feel for the price the WJ swap is also an excellent option, especially considering my ball joint situation. yet with it being my DD i dont want the install to take more than a couple days. it looks to be more labor intensive. also, ive read confliction accounts of 15" wheels working or not.

thoughts?

15" steel wheels will fit with teeves calipers, can't speak for other combos

VAhasnoWAVES said:

the appeal of the teraflex system is the bolt on application. but it sounds like its far from it. id be content with redoing the sway bar mounts, but as i said, do not wish to mess with the track bar mount. also, the aluminium links would last until something better could be slapped in. my jeep sees 95% street miles in all honesty, im in college. the jeep only sees mild use on and off. im perfectly content with an UTK setup... for the price, would the JCR 1-ton setup be a better option for my application?

Click to expand...

Ide say its far from just bolt on. and you have to ream out your driver knuckle for the 1 ton ends. I would go with JCR's If I could, to me it seams a little better and a little less PITA. My jeep is street driven as well. ITs my DD and with the steering I have now, I dont enjoy driving it as much Less turn radius, it wonders on the highway, and is just squirly. Could be locker to, but its part of the steering to.

i can handle some reaming and a little welding. but i dont want to have to completely redo my suspension geometry. looks like its a tard of an idea. i priced brand new ZJ steering today, drag link, tie rod, 2 TREs, and 2 adjustors, all MOOG parts... came to about $200.

Currie has served me well for about 2 years. The TRE's that come with it are huge, but still stock taper, so no drilling or reaming. It's literally bolt on.

Like said before, the teraflex kit seems super expensive and requires you raise your trackbar and swaybar mounts. A lot more work there.