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need a new steering setup (no drilling poss?)

alwaysready

alwaysready

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Wilmington, Illinois
i did some searching and never really found an answer so i assume it doesnt exist but i will ask anyways

is there a steering setup that requires no drilling or reaming?

heres the deal
I got my 2000 xj setup with a RE 3.5 lift and stuff
but in the winter I install a small meyer plow (6'6" classic mount) which obviously drops the front down,
with the added front weight the steering is out of alignment and i get uneven wear on the tires. so i want to go to another style of steering but i dont do massive amounts of wheeling only 31" tires so dont need anything serious

yes my frist choice if i have to drill is JCR 1 ton kit
onetonsteeringkitdsc.jpg

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6

unless anyone has any better options for me??

and yes plowing with the XJ is awesome i had a 99 F-250 super duty v-8 with a plow (7'6") the jeep is alot more fun and quicker. i do a few small lots the f250 was like a barge LOL
 
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I would much rather have the Currie steering than the inverted T that JCR sells. Unless you run it off a high steer arm, it's a roly-poly and the steering input is very vague.

You can get bolt-on brackets from BTF and MORE, or get a Tera knuckle, but there'll be drilling, and you'll have to mod the trackbar to match the hi-steer.
 
I'd recommend the Currie steering as well for a direct bolt on steering upgrade, however it is not going to fix your alignment issue with the snow plow installed as it employs the same inverted Y design as the factory steering...

Edit: Beat me to it, already figured it out for yourself...
 
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You hang a bunch of weight up front and the toe changes, more weight, the bigger the change.

Could do YJ steering. Knuckle to knuckle and the drag link goes to the pass side. The one issue with this is tie rod roll making a dead spot in the steering.
 
Gaius said:
Why?
Click to expand...

Because you dont understand the downfalls of having a Y link setup
when adding alot of weight at times, the front of the truck pushes the draglink bar down which increases the toe of the vehicle which in turn throws your alignment off which causes unnecessary wear on the tires

The same reason you need an alignment after a lift or even a spacer added in..
 
jbsjunk said:
You hang a bunch of weight up front and the toe changes, more weight, the bigger the change.

Could do YJ steering. Knuckle to knuckle and the drag link goes to the pass side. The one issue with this is tie rod roll making a dead spot in the steering.
Click to expand...

thanks for the input
ill have to look into it and see is it bolt in parts?
how bad is the dead spot? it is my DD lol
 
alwaysready said:
Because you dont understand the downfalls of having a Y link setup
Click to expand...

I do understand, just didn't catch you were plowing with it.


The only crossover setup I know of that you don't have to drill is the WJ setup. But this takes some fabrication to go along with it. Plus side, is you'll have much better brakes with the weight of the plow.
 
alwaysready said:
thanks for the input
ill have to look into it and see is it bolt in parts?
how bad is the dead spot? it is my DD lol
Click to expand...

It is supposed to be a bolt on but I don't have first hand knowledge. There should be a few threads on this.

As for the tie rod roll, you may not feel it since you're not lifting it much. JCR has a bushing for this, but it's for the 1 ton steering. Can always screw it on and see if it's bad enough to warrant the bushings.
 
Check out Iron Rock Off-Road's steering setup. You have the option of running 1/2" hardware for a no drill install or 5/8" for more strength. It gives a full length tie rod over the knuckle with the drag link attaching below the knuckle.
 
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...=IROR&Product_Code=IR-TOTKS&Category_Code=XST

" This system does not work with OEM wheels. Wheel spacers or wheels with less than stock backspacing are required. "

im running factory Rubicon Moab wheels so i guess thats out of the option..
not to mention its $375
thanks though :D

edit: it does say over 15" wheels should be fine and the rubi wheels are 16"
so it is still an option otherwise it says you need an 1-1/4" spacer on the front wheels

and this system uses Heim joints versus tie rod ends
 
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thanks for the info Lockridge
here is a thread on that setup reading through it now..
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=929355

seems people are happy with it.. im not looking for anything killer so its a toss up
between this and the unit at rustys offroad

the one at rusty's does list the moog part #s for the TREs too which is a plus for replacement

still slightly concerned about the dead spot but i guess we can always give it a try and see...
 
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