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Rear main seal tips

CJ96xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bel Air, MD
I'm replacing the rear main seal on my 96 4.0 xj tomorrow, Are there any tips anyone can offer? I have a pretty good writeup on it.
Thanks
 
http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain

It is crucial to use a small amount of rtv sealant on the corners of the seal, where the 2 halves meet.

I didnt use any sealant when I slid the top seal in, I used lucas oil stabilizer. (the thick goopy oil) I tried to slip the seal in dry, but I ended up ripping it. I put a big gob of lucas oil on the end of the seal, and slowly slipped it in.

No leaks!
 
the guy at advanced gave some packs of the sealant that they have on the counter, I guess thats the same idea just smaller amounts?
 
Ok, I have the oil pan partially out, the front end is as low as possible... any ideas? Also, will taking the bracket on all the bearings drop the crank?
 
just LOOOSEN the bearing caps, dont remove. even once it's removed, it's still attached at the timing chain/cover, and the trans (should?) still be bolted up.

is it hanging up on the starter? if so, pull it! i like to pull the entire front axle, regardless of how much lift.
 
Believe it or not if your having problems getting the pan out. Jack the axle up a little and it slides right out through the back. Someone told me about that and it worked. But I'm not lifted either, don't know if it makes a difference.
 
Also, will taking the bracket on all the bearings drop the crank?
You are talking about the main girdle? If so, it won't drop the bearing caps if you remove it, which you have to do.
 
Ok, I have the oil pan partially out, the front end is as low as possible... any ideas? Also, will taking the bracket on all the bearings drop the crank?

what's if getting hung up on; the pick up? I've got to do this tomorrow or the next so I'm curious what sorta problem you're running in to. Are you lifted?


Oh and since we're on the topic of bearing caps, is the correct TQ. 80 ft/lbs?
 
Yes bearing caps 80 flbs. Park the jeep where you are going to work on it over night. I moved mine into the garage and had oil dripping eveywhere, even after I let it sit for an hour.
 
Thanks for the confirmation. I'll definitely be in the garage. I've got to pull the transmission for a syncro replacement so quite a bit of its coming apart.
 
The reason for jacking the axle up is that the axle actually swings in an arc. The lower it is the less room to remove the pan because it moves back. Jacking it up moves it forward.

Lifts with new LCA probably don't have that problem cause they are moved forward with a longer LCA. Lifts with stock LCA's may also have a problem dependenty on how much lift.
 
http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain

It is crucial to use a small amount of rtv sealant on the corners of the seal, where the 2 halves meet.

I didnt use any sealant when I slid the top seal in, I used lucas oil stabilizer. (the thick goopy oil) I tried to slip the seal in dry, but I ended up ripping it. I put a big gob of lucas oil on the end of the seal, and slowly slipped it in.

No leaks!

"Critical?" I've never done it. Never had a leak, either.

However, one of the single most useful bits I can give you is to pour a cupful of clean oil before you start, and throw the new seal in. Let it soak while you're working.

- It makes the seal slippery, and easier to install.
- It makes the seal more pliant, helping it seal faster.
- It makes the seal slightly softer, which helps it "form" better (which may be why I haven't had "end leaks"...

Soaking the rear main in oil has worked better than rubbing it with anything at all right before installation - even when I used engine assembly lube to lubricate the thing. DO IT!

If you pillage around, you should be able to find my writeups on the job - I've done plenty, and I've figured out a lot of XJ-specific stuff that should help you...
 
Use a BRASS punch to push the upper half out of the block if you need to use anything. No screwdrivers, ice picks, steel punches, or other implements need apply... unless you want to risk scratching the crank.
 
I dropped my oil pan Saturday. I couldn't get it out from the back so I pulled the track bar and dropped the steering stabiler out. It slid our forward and with a slight twist came out towards the R/F. I used a highlift to raise the body from the axle, the tires never left the ground although the weight of the vehicle was unloaded. My rear main was not leaking, the oil pan gasket was leaking at the timing case cover.

The dirtiest, filthest job I have ever encountered on a jeep.
 
Doesn't have to actually be a punch, it just has to be brass and the right size. I buy 3/16" diameter brass rod stock from Lowes for like 5 bucks a stick, cut off as much as I need, and grind the end till it's the right shape.
 
i used a brass bathroom fixture, i think it was a toliet paper holder from wally world cut to size
 
My mechanic at work told me about something like a shoehorn or something? Any ideas what he's talking about?

The recent FelPro RMS kits come with a piece of plastic that you rest between the block and the top RMS so as not to damage the seal.
 
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