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Converting a radius arm to a 3 link?

zachandandy

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Patterson, Ca
Jeep currently has a rubicon express long arm kit. I've been looking at 3links, and it seems as though I can weld a mount on top of the re crossmember, build a link mount for the axle, run a link between the 2, and remove the upper arms from the radius arms. Has anyone done this? Is the benefit worth the work?
 
Why would you have to build a link mount? Use the factory upper mount.

A lot of people are going to tell you to not do it but I've been on my RK 3-link for a long time. It's basically the same thing.
 
Why would you have to build a link mount? Use the factory upper mount.

A lot of people are going to tell you to not do it but I've been on my RK 3-link for a long time. It's basically the same thing.

not basically the same thing

CRAZY pinion dive

long lowers and a short upper and 10mm bolt= not for me

stock uca mounts are weak too

Why not just connect the third upper link to the left side lower control arm like Iron Rock Off road long arm kit does?

because you get no benefit. sure the iron rock leghumpers will say "OH MY GOD NO MORE BIND MO FLEX" but thats not true. you are left with a weaker setup that will eat upper control arm bushings and flex the same
 
i think he means run the upper link from the x-member, not factory upper location. if the mount is raised from lower mount and as far back i dont see why the pinion would dive like crazy, ya, he is gonna get some movement, but sounds like he is wanting to do it how companies like BDS have their link set up done? :dunno:
 
i heard "factory link mount" so i assume he is talking about the factory link mount lol.
 
weld a mount on top of the re crossmember, build a link mount for the axle, run a link between the 2
sounds like xmember to axle :dunno:

or was it somewhere else in the thread and i missed it....i am blind ya know




edit:
i see it, in lowrange's post. i think he meant stock UCA mount on the axle end.....
 
not basically the same thing

CRAZY pinion dive

long lowers and a short upper and 10mm bolt= not for me

stock uca mounts are weak too



because you get no benefit. sure the iron rock leghumpers will say "OH MY GOD NO MORE BIND MO FLEX" but thats not true. you are left with a weaker setup that will eat upper control arm bushings and flex the same

you hit the nail on the head...
 
because you get no benefit. sure the iron rock leghumpers will say "OH MY GOD NO MORE BIND MO FLEX" but thats not true. you are left with a weaker setup that will eat upper control arm bushings and flex the same

How can it "eat upper control arm bushings" when there are no upper control arms with the IRO (Iron Y ) longarm setup, other than the one arm that links to the left axle bushing mount? So, I assume you are saying that the IRO setup goes through that one bushing a lot faster than normal? I don't see how considering that the control arm no longer "rotates" on, nor "twists", this bushing as it is a fixed arm setup.
 
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the one arm that links to the left axle bushing mount? .

bam.

the ironrock webwheelers say that its fine

but the guys i know that wheel thier setups hard say there is an axle wrap issue in the front and don't like it.

its just a setup that is weaker than stock

sure they try to sell thier 'OH MAN OUR ARMS ARE SO XXXXING BEEFY 3/8" THICK BLABLABLA YOU WILL NEVER BEND THEM EVARRRRR"

but what good is that when you have a cheesy adjuster bracket with a single 10mm bolt and stock bushing?

at least the rock krawler 3 link comes with a joint that replaces the factory junk and you are able to use a 9/16" bolt.
 
not basically the same thing

CRAZY pinion dive

long lowers and a short upper and 10mm bolt= not for me

stock uca mounts are weak too



because you get no benefit. sure the iron rock leghumpers will say "OH MY GOD NO MORE BIND MO FLEX" but thats not true. you are left with a weaker setup that will eat upper control arm bushings and flex the same

Let me rephrase.

I meant UCA mount on the axle. Driver side.

Since I'm using the RK kit it comes with a bushing replacement to run a much larger bolt. I would expect he use a larger bolt. I don't recommend the 10mm one.

I also meant for him to make a full length upper from the axle to a nice strong crossmember. Making it "basically the same thing"... as a traditional 3-link with a panhard bar.

Does that make better sense? lol
 
My plan is to copy the froelic 3 link, new mount on top of re crossmember, new mount at the axle, replacing the passenger side uca mount and heim joints on both ends of the new uca. Any recommendations on the link material?
 
well ya already got the lowers.

i'd use at minimum for an upper: 1.5" od .250 wall tubing with 7/8" heims
 
bam.

the ironrock webwheelers say that its fine

but the guys i know that wheel thier setups hard say there is an axle wrap issue in the front and don't like it.

its just a setup that is weaker than stock

sure they try to sell thier 'OH MAN OUR ARMS ARE SO XXXXING BEEFY 3/8" THICK BLABLABLA YOU WILL NEVER BEND THEM EVARRRRR"

but what good is that when you have a cheesy adjuster bracket with a single 10mm bolt and stock bushing?

at least the rock krawler 3 link comes with a joint that replaces the factory junk and you are able to use a 9/16" bolt.

Good info that I was not aware of and the IRO setup looked so nice and simple to me.
 
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