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89 heep idles rough and studders at about 2k

krawlingxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
reno nv
we rebuilt the motor and after driving its idle is rough and at about 2k it sputters. it however does not sputter when you get on it hard or let off and get back on at 2k. the timing is correct. any ideas? 89 cherokee 4.0l
 
Very succinct. Kudos.

Well then I am out of useful suggestions aside from fuel pressure (stock answer, I know) since you are sure the timing is good, but there should be more people here that have a good idea for you. Hopefully they will chime in soon.
 
I had a 2 K buck in mine twice, the first time it was the wires for the O2 sensor cooking on the exhaust manifold up front. Where they were cooking at was almost impossible to see. I had to disconnect all the sensor underneath (knock sensor, engine temp. and O2) and pull the harness up to get to the spot for repairs. The second time it was an O2 sensor that was fairly new.
I had a crappy idle, most of it was the ground for the TPS. I had to peal back the covering on the harness on the firewall until I found a splice that was loose.
They say initial timing is important, you can be one tooth off and it will run OK, sort of. Search indexing the distributor. If you replaced the cam indexing can even be more important.
 
ditto on the distributor indexing. My 88 Manche did exactly the same thing. the distributor rotor was pointed directly at the #1 contact when the engine was set to top dead center. WRONG !! the rotor should be somewhere between #1 and the next contact in the direction of rotation.
 
i will recheck timing. we hooked it up to a snapon scanner yesterday and when it does the rough 1500-2000k thing the timing spikes up to 45 degrees advance. still is not tossing any codes with no check engine light. but when it heats up it starts doing it at 2000-2500 and not at 15-2k.
 
Check your distributor for endplay, (up and down movement). I had a similar issue replaced all the sensor and repair all ground and still had an issue. I found that when I twisted the rotor it would raise up and move 30*.
 
throttle position sensor, i had that studder for about 2 years, replaced the tps, nothing now

He replaced the TPS.

But make sure your TPS is adjusted. 87-90 are adjustable.

Other than a distributor indexing problem, which is common with new engines, verify fuel pressure is 31 psi at idle and 39 psi with the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator disconnected.

Also test your camshaft position sensor (also known as stator or synch generator) inside the distributor.
 
Check that the Egr closes completely, make sure vacuum line to the map is not cracked and functioning properly. I always like to verify the O2 sensor is working correctly and back probe the O2 and check to see that the voltage is constantly changing from lean to rich, which indicates the computer has the mixture in proper balance. Oh, one more thing! Did you make sure the ground wires on the dipstick tube bracket are all clean and same goes for the block, make sure there is bare metal there too, no paint.
 
ditto on the distributor indexing. My 88 Manche did exactly the same thing. the distributor rotor was pointed directly at the #1 contact when the engine was set to top dead center. WRONG !! the rotor should be somewhere between #1 and the next contact in the direction of rotation.
BAM! As a last ditch effort we did that and now it runs amazing! Its our fault for not checking timing again first. thanks for all your help!
 
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