Dual Stock e fan...almost a bolt on!!!

Well I had to replace my radiator last summer-blew on the highway-anyways I found an Advance Auto Parts close by and had to by there rad in stock.It is part #43-2335 and at that time I had to cut some of the brackets where the stock fan shroud mounts to the bottom,no big deal.Others had to do it see review from customers here http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...Rad_19920367-P_31_R|GRPCOOLAMS____#fragment-1
I had put a 14" e fan in the stock mechanical shroud years ago when I lived in FL http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/electric.html seen in this write up so the fan hub had been removed so I can not confirm if doing this will fit with the hub-it may- it looks like now that I have done what I did.So on to my discovery!! I had read this post http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1057920
Well I had to put in a cheap 14" fan to replace the zirgo one I had in-Now that it is getting warmer I was concerned with cooling power,when i read the above post that the stock E fan puts out Excellent CFM's so i got a j yard unit from a 2000 and thats when it hit me.I installed it onto the rad and had to make a 90 degree bracket to bolt it in on the right side-looking at the engine-and bolted it in the factory hole on the left with the 7 mm bolt head.So i went to see how to mount it on the bottom and right there in front of me it looks like it would drop into the brackets I had to cut,I went to advanced auto and got my "life time replacement" and the stock fan litterly lined up with the tabs that had been previuosly removed!!!!
Now I had a factory 2nd drop in e fan!!! All that was made was the small bracket to make up for the location.I have a temp switch from an 85 or so nissan 300 zx 3.0 v6 in line with a radiator drain adapter spliced in to the upper hose.The switch turns on around 195 and shuts off around 189 ish-I use a 180 t stat.The fans turn on for about 1 minute 45 seconds and then shuts off for about 1 minute and the cycle continues-its was 80 degrees out today,So my conclusion is this was a worth with doing-almost bolt in on the fan install anyways!! wire as you see fit...........:roll:

How does it do at cooling the XJ and do you see a big drop in amps when it comes on?

As far as cooling it works better than what I had previuosly - 14" fan in the stock shroud-even when I ran the zirgo one.Amps wise I did not check that -Dirtbound off road has done that-but I just may and post results-I am Orlando FL bound this weekend-I will find out for sure how it does in traffic-A/C on full!!!:flame:
I am pretty happy how it went though-So easy to do-In the summer last year the rad cooled just fine here in Charlotte,NC area,which still gets in the hi 80's and 90's with hi hummidity as well.always ran right where it should be around 200 or so-having good fan control-wether it be a controller or a switch,and a cooling system in good shape.

do you need to cut off the fan nub? Is there enough space?

Please report back on your Orlando trip.

I had done that before-
I had put a 14" e fan in the stock mechanical shroud years ago when I lived in FL ... so the fan hub had been removed...
I maybe able to measure it in relation to where it sits now?I do not have measurements to go by.I could try to measure from the rad to the furthest it sits from there? It is easy to remove the stock fan and allthough a pita you could remove the fan clutch/fan and the shroud and see if it hits the hub?
I will post how it works in FL,That will be a good test-I will take some pics later when I get back-need to neatin up the wiring part...

sleestack said:

How does it do at cooling the XJ and do you see a big drop in amps when it comes on?

Click to expand...

The stock fans pull more than 10A at startup, I don't have a meter capable of testing them. It popped my 10A fuse.

Please do share the amp results if you test it, I know other members of are wanting to know that as well.

Ok I have a clamp on amp probe at work,I am a tech working at a Volvo truck dealer-Have been wrenchin fer 27 years now.Last 3 have been in the heavy duty truck industry-gotta go where the $ is at!!! I think our test equipment goes up hi in amperage-trucks have huge loads on them...think of the trailer lighting...plus all the add on crap!!! Well anyways I will let ya know and also what size wire I am using and what not...:attom:
Also fergot to mention I will test them individually= 1-when the a/c comes on and 2-when they both come on.So we can see what both pull together-but on seperate relays.@ operating temp,to be acurate.

I'm very interested in knowing how many amps these things pull. Please note what year the fan us from and how many blades it has (they may have used different motors with the varying designs).

Thanks!

OK as for the cooling it worked great never went over 210-middle on gauge-re-check my set up-fan turn on temps and etc...it had no problems with FL temps this time of year and with A/C on,good there.I did a quick check with my Fluke 88 meter-with clamp on amp probe-1 fan was 8 blade bosch motor unit-max peak amps were 56 with constant 14.8 while operating.The other fan was an aftermarket 10 blade one,BUT,I switched it for the 96 stock electric motor-non bosch just had mopar numbers on it.I do not trust china motors.That one pulled 34.6 at start up and constant 9.6 amps while running,and at 13.8 volts all the time when on.Remember this is a clamp on style that converts DC Milivolts to read in amps-choise of 40 amp or 400 amp settings-it is a snap on brand clamp on style.It may not be acurate on start up amps.I think the best way to check amps is to use a dedicated amp gauge -electric one and use that,but I feel that the start up amps are over rated-I used a 30 amp fuse on the fans-would have blown if over that.The fluke is extremely quick acting and sensitive though.I feel more confident on the acuracy at running amps.I am happy with my results.The lights never flickered or dimmed when they both turned on-I have an 88 so I have a 105 amp Cs-130 alternator-I did check the amp draw when they turned on at the 6 gauge wire I have from the alt to battery and when they were on it went to 30 amps or so.No problems there,went to 4 amps when they were off,no lights or radio on so would be slightly higher if those were on.
Also do not forget that some gauges and sending units-different years etc...can make a 5-15 degree range on the gauge.