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Build thread: Fiberglass fenders

jdbwrx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Avon, CO
I decided this winter that I wanted to replace my fenders. After looking around at replacement stock ones, I thought I would look into a set of baja style flared ones. I couldn't justify the cost of those, I decided to give building my own a whirl.

I started with drawing up what I wanted in 3d cad. I have a good .3ds file of a pre '97 XJ that I used for working on my bumpers and cage, so I used that as a starting point. I have a '99, so I knew I would need to add some radius to the top edge to match the newer front clip. For the drawing, I used Rhino, and got the .stl file ready to mill in Magics. I decided to tackle the driver's side first.

Here's some shots of the Rhino drawing:
fenderdesign1perspective.jpg


fenderdesign1top.jpg


fenderdesign1side.jpg


fenderdesign1perspectiveclose.jpg


Here's what the mill ready file looked like:
DriversSideToMillPink.jpg


Fortunately we have a large 4'x8' CNC router at work with a 16" z axis. I started with a 24"x48"x8" block of a lightweight foam. (as I eventually found, too lightweight and I plan to use 10lb urethane on the next one).

Here's what it looked like after I finished the roughing pass and just as it was starting the finish pass:
DSCF0050.jpg


Here is what the foam plug looked like after I Pulled it off the mill:
DSCF0051.jpg


The foam was a little soft, so I started by spraying a coat of epoxy on it to give it a shell:
DSCF0056.jpg


Once I had the foam plug shaped out, I spent some time using bondo and body filler to smooth it out and get the final shape dialed in. The hardest part (which I don't have pics of) was making the connection points so it would bolt up to the stock locations. I used some plaster cloth to make an impression of the stock metal fender mounts. Once I had the plaster pieces, I filled them with bondo. I then cut and glued those connections onto the plug. I had to do it this way since the mill can't do undercuts, and it would have taken me way longer to try and draw these up in 3d cad.

Somewhere I have picks of what the final plug looked like, but I will have to post them later.

Once the plug was ready, I coated it in mold release wax and started laying on resin and pieces of fiberglass matte. I had read up on how to fiberglass and had a good understanding of how it works, but this was my first time using it on any project of significant size. Here is a picture of what the mold looked like:
DSCF0010.jpg


Once the mold was done, I was able to lay in the glass and resin for the final part. I used a polyester resin called "Impact Resin." Supposed to be strong and pretty user friendly. I started by laying in a sheet of cloth, then adding matte to thicken things up. I wasn't sure how many layers to add, so I didn't go crazy. I figured some flex to the final part will be OK and maybe make it more forgiving to impacts.

I pulled the part from the mold yesterday:
DSCF0001.jpg


I ran into one small problem. The resin seemed to react to the paint I had used int he mold, so it pulled up some of the color. That accounts for the gray splotches on the final part. I am not worried though since I will need to sand and do some final filling on it anyway. Here is what my fender looks like next to the stock one:

DSCF0006.jpg


DSCF0005.jpg
 
With all of that done, it was time to see if the fender fit on the Jeep. Overall, it went on great and I am very happy with the results. I had to do some trimming on the rear side where it meets up with the driver's door. There is a slightly larger gap between the hood than ideal, but I think it will work. I also had to cut the fender to fit around the A-pillar of my hybrid cage.

Here's some pics of it on the Jeep. Sorry the lighting sucks. I'll get it outside and get better pics soon:
P1020018.jpg


P1020021.jpg


P1020020.jpg


P1020023.jpg


So as I said, I still need to get it cleaned up and painted. In the meantime, one down, one to go!
 
Looks great!

What kind of layup did you use for the mold and what kind of topcoat did you use?

Did you use a releasing agent like PVA along with the wax? It could account for some of the grey lifting.

I would suggest using a vinylester resin with gelcoat for any future fenders you plan on makeing. It's alot tougher than polyester resin and the gelcoat will provide a nice durable finish.
 
Very nice work! It really helps when you have all those nice tools! Looks like its time to start mass producing.:thumbup:
 
Yeah man you should make some icelandic offroad style flares to sell to all the folks who spent their money and never got their flares as well as people like me that want the icelandic offroad flares but have been scared by all the horror stories of their business practices. Except you have to sell them for less than $350 and mold in the mounting studs instead of using bondo like they did.:D
 
After applying mold release, spray gel coat into the mold prior to layup and it will give you a much better surface to finish. If you were within easy striking distance of the Springs, I'd be more than happy to help. 4 decades of fiberglass experience...
 
After applying mold release, spray gel coat into the mold prior to layup and it will give you a much better surface to finish. If you were within easy striking distance of the Springs, I'd be more than happy to help. 4 decades of fiberglass experience...

Thanks for the offer. You must be really itchy after working with that stuff for that long (and be either permanently high or have no sense of smell thanks to the resin) :D

Oil Town: I debated using a gel coat. Maybe for the next round of them. I prepped the mold with 4 coats of mold release wax (partall paste #2). I let it dry for 24 hours+ before laying the glass in. I did spray a coat of PVA before hand as well. The PVA tends to bubble if I get it on too heavy, so I just misted the mold with it.

As for layup: I first brushed on some resin in the working area. I started with 1 layer of cloth (and I'm sorry I don't remember the weight of it). I used the biggest pieces I could, but due to the shape couldn't get it in all one piece. After that I layed in pieces of 1 1/2 oz. matte. I used smaller pieces (4"x4" or so) that I tore off so the edges were frayed. I overlapped them, so there were probably about 2-3 layer thick total.

I wasn't sure how much to lay in. The part seems solid, but a little flexy which I think is OK. I'd lover to hear what you guys think about the layering thickness.

As for selling them: I want to get my process and everything dialed in before I go that route. The bottom edge near the door is shorter, as I didn't need it to connect on the pinch seam underneath anymore. I don't know if that would universally work. Producing them did cross my mind though.
 
Thanks for the offer. You must be really itchy after working with that stuff for that long (and be either permanently high or have no sense of smell thanks to the resin) :D

Oil Town: I debated using a gel coat. Maybe for the next round of them. I prepped the mold with 4 coats of mold release wax (partall paste #2). I let it dry for 24 hours+ before laying the glass in. I did spray a coat of PVA before hand as well. The PVA tends to bubble if I get it on too heavy, so I just misted the mold with it.

As for layup: I first brushed on some resin in the working area. I started with 1 layer of cloth (and I'm sorry I don't remember the weight of it). I used the biggest pieces I could, but due to the shape couldn't get it in all one piece. After that I layed in pieces of 1 1/2 oz. matte. I used smaller pieces (4"x4" or so) that I tore off so the edges were frayed. I overlapped them, so there were probably about 2-3 layer thick total.

I wasn't sure how much to lay in. The part seems solid, but a little flexy which I think is OK. I'd lover to hear what you guys think about the layering thickness.

As for selling them: I want to get my process and everything dialed in before I go that route. The bottom edge near the door is shorter, as I didn't need it to connect on the pinch seam underneath anymore. I don't know if that would universally work. Producing them did cross my mind though.
I would try a couple different thickness and see what you like. If you want to be stronger an lighter switch to a vinyl ester resin, it's so much better than polyester! I really like US Composite's Vinyl ester 700 resin
http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html

If you were serious about selling these I would redo your mold. Start with a tooling gelcoat and then use a tooling polyester resin. It will handle the multiple heat cycles a lot better. I like to use black tooling gelcoat, because its easier to see the wax.
 
Thanks for the offer. You must be really itchy after working with that stuff for that long (and be either permanently high or have no sense of smell thanks to the resin) :D

Oil Town: I debated using a gel coat. Maybe for the next round of them. I prepped the mold with 4 coats of mold release wax (partall paste #2). I let it dry for 24 hours+ before laying the glass in. I did spray a coat of PVA before hand as well. The PVA tends to bubble if I get it on too heavy, so I just misted the mold with it.

As for layup: I first brushed on some resin in the working area. I started with 1 layer of cloth (and I'm sorry I don't remember the weight of it). I used the biggest pieces I could, but due to the shape couldn't get it in all one piece. After that I layed in pieces of 1 1/2 oz. matte. I used smaller pieces (4"x4" or so) that I tore off so the edges were frayed. I overlapped them, so there were probably about 2-3 layer thick total.

I wasn't sure how much to lay in. The part seems solid, but a little flexy which I think is OK. I'd lover to hear what you guys think about the layering thickness.

As for selling them: I want to get my process and everything dialed in before I go that route. The bottom edge near the door is shorter, as I didn't need it to connect on the pinch seam underneath anymore. I don't know if that would universally work. Producing them did cross my mind though.


I would bolster the cloth with mat at the mounting point areas. Cloth will give you a more flexy part which is good for most of the fender as it will reduce the likelyhood of breakage. If you do go into limited production, I would reccomend that you make some "templates" to aid cutting the cloth to size. Cardboard works a wonder...

I never was bothered by the glass itching, and after decades of welding fumes, paint fumes, Glass resin fumes... Well, no real sense of smell left!
 
Looks really good dude! Nice work. If I had access to the best materials and equipment I would make some out of kevlar/carbon hybrid pre preg material and vacuum bag it over the mold then cook it for a flexible yet extremely durable part. This is awesome for homemade though!
 
Where did you get your solids model of the XJ? I just finished building a large laser 3D digitizer and I am getting ready to digitize my XJ for use in SolidWorks.

Nice work. It's good to find other fabricators that use technology.
 
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