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rugged ridge steering

L

lockridge

NAXJA Forum User
Location
staunton,Va
just wondering if you can make the Rugged Ridge steering over the knuckle to maybe reduce the tie rod twisting and do away with the dead spot in the steering.
 
running otk wont stop the tie rod from rolling. add a spacer between the passenger tre and the knuckle. this will tighten the tre and keep it from rolling
 
You cant flip the RR steering to the top!
 
ok thanks for all the info. I am buying the kit from someone for a steal and they said they couldn't fix the dead spot and he has the spacer but i think his jeep is higher than mine and i read that the higher it is the worse the dead spot because of the draglink angle.
 
I'm at 5 inches of lift, and I have the sane style steering, its the jcr 1 ton utk, I have a rubber spacer in between the tre and the knuckle. When this spacer wears out, ill try the cutting board spacer. My steering has no play or tie rod roll at all.
 
twodoorXJ said:
I'm at 5 inches of lift, and I have the sane style steering, its the jcr 1 ton utk, I have a rubber spacer in between the tre and the knuckle. When this spacer wears out, ill try the cutting board spacer. My steering has no play or tie rod roll at all.
Click to expand...
Because yours is the "Sane style"

Rugged ridge is not the "Sane style"

JCR > RR:wave1:
 
You cant flip it because the passenger side tre has a "kick" in it.
 
I just picked up the RR set-up for cheap, and I was looking to do the same thing. I was previously planning to get the JCR OTK kit, but for the price I got the RR linkage...

Here's my plan: Replace all the TRE's with the same part #'s JCR uses. They Both use 1.25 Dia .25 wall DOM, so the real difference is in the TRE's, right? And both set-ups use 7/8 x 18 thread on the ends. So once I get a reamer, and the TRE's I can install as if it was the JCR kit. Anybody see any problems?
 
WheelsUp said:
I just picked up the RR set-up for cheap, and I was looking to do the same thing. I was previously planning to get the JCR OTK kit, but for the price I got the RR linkage...

Here's my plan: Replace all the TRE's with the same part #'s JCR uses. They Both use 1.25 Dia .25 wall DOM, so the real difference is in the TRE's, right? And both set-ups use 7/8 x 18 thread on the ends. So once I get a reamer, and the TRE's I can install as if it was the JCR kit. Anybody see any problems?
Click to expand...

Might be a problem with the length of the tie rod and drag link,the chevy tre's are longer.
 
Just got around to doing this. The RR ends are NOT 18 tpi. So I'm needing to get a LH tap too to make these work, which isn't cheap. So now, it would have been cheaper to just buy the kit from JCR, but in the event I screw up a rod I'll have what I need to make a replacement. Plus this way I was able to get TRE's with a lifetime warranty.
 
Good to know. Yeah, I noticed your website says: 'almost .25" wall'. I wonder if RR uses the same, because I had no problem fitting the tap after chopping a few inches off the rod, even though theirs is described as 1/4" wall.

76673-add1-lg.jpg


I believe they use a 16tpi end, since it's slightly larger than the 18, but I don't have a thread gauge.

I'd probably go to a 1 5/16 tube .25 wall if I ever had to replace a rod or made another set-up.
 
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