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92 cherokee won't start

To me, at first, it sounds like a bad battery..... Noticed it was an everstart, I work at walmart in the Tire & lube shop. I have seen several batterys that are bad right off the shelf. I'd probably take the battery back, have 'em check it. If its bad, have them check your replacement one before you take it. Don't really know what else.
 
Definitely a dead battery or battery cables. It's simply not going to fire up when the battery gets that weak. The hammering sound is the starter solenoid, it engages and the battery voltage drops enough that it disengages, and the cycle repeats.
 
Was that charger that is still hooked up to the battery on the start setting? Or was it unplugged from the wall at that point? What is the voltage on the battery? On the cables how much corrosion is there(the green/white powder stuff) As mentioned above the battery sounds really really weak.
 
1. Load test the battery to be sure. Don't want to be chasing your tail.

2. If the battery checks out and being new, it very well might, you either have a serious case of "voltage drop" (ie: bad cable, bad ground,etc) or something is funky with your starter.

Put a meter at the starter with the key in the ON position. If you have approximately full battery voltage at the starter, you have a bad starter. IF you do not have full battery voltage at the starter, you need to start working your way back into the engine bay to find out why.

Cables/grounds are primary suspects here.
 
Fast-clicking means the starter is trying to spin up but cant because there isn't enough amperage to overcome the resistance of the engine. Usually this means battery but it could also be a bad cable or weak ground. Clean the ground strap at the back of the head and the spots where the starter bolts to the body. Also clean the cable leads on the starter, and use sandpaper to brighten the main terminals at the battery end of the cables.

You could also possibly have some kind of problem with the engine itself. Put a socket on the crankshaft nut and see if you can turn the engine by hand.

Also possible that the starter solenoid is not engaging all the way.

One thing to try would be to disconnect the leads from the battery and use jumper cables to start from another car
 
OK...three things necessary....spark, compression, and fuel. If injectors are not getting the proper signal, no fuel. Can check injector signal with a noid light (can borrow/rent from parts store). Can try to start with starting fluid while cranking...if it starts you should suspect fuel.

Check spark by pulling a plug...turn it over and see if it has a good, snappy white spark (not a weak yellow one).

Compression...I think your numbers are low. Might try increasing compression of 3-4 cylinders by putting a LITTLE motor oil in each through the spark plug hole. It's possible that it got flooded....and washed the cylinder walls and reduced compression...oil trick can get 3-4 to fire....thereby getting the rest to fire.

Let us know about fuel/spark tests....
 
I am having a similar problem with the starter. When you guys say put a meter at the starter with the ignition in the "on" position, you mean not trying to start the vehicle, but the key position where the vehicle runs after starting, correct?
 
Listened to the video link you posted and it sounds like it is get no spark at all or its flooded. Pull out a plug and check to see if its soaked with fuel... If it is the best you can do is pull out the plugs and let it dry out. If its the plugs are dry then you aren't getting any fuel.

My order of troubleshooting would be

1. Check all fuses (fuel pump and ecu)
2. check to see if its getting spark (pull a plug and have a friend turn over the engine to
see if you get a spark)
a. Check spark plug cap and rotor (I have seen these defective off the shelf)
3. Fuel (is it getting any)
4. Fuel pressure (if it is getting fuel)
5. Finally the ECU could have failed

And one other thing, this has happened on my rig and it could have happened on yours. When you replaced the fuel pump it could have pumped a slug of air into the fuel line and your injector rail is air bound. There is a cap on the end of the fuel rail, you can remove it and press down on the valve underneath the cap to see if it the fuel is a solid stream or if there is air in it. My guess though is that it is just flooded and needs to dry out.
 
One other thought. This happened to my '92 and it was a nightmare to track down. The connector that plugs onto the injectors have 2 wires. One is a power wire to fire the injector and the other is a fuel pump shut off in case of problems. The shut off wires go into the harness and bundle together so that a signal from any 1 of them shuts off the pump. They a bunched together and it is just a squeezed together connection. one of mine had come loose fron the bundle and was making intermittent connection. Truck would just randomly quit running. If you have disturbed the harness in the area where it runs from the intake to the firewall at the "tee" try moving it around a bit while someone is trying to start it withe the key. If memory serves, the fuel pump shutoff wires are green.
 
Did it work??

I just got mine running after almost a year.
I replaced:
wires, plugs, cap, rotor, distributor, coil, crank sensor, computer.
None of this worked.

It turned out that 3 of the flexplate bolts were loose and it was sending bad signals to the
computer.
Once I tightened them it fired right up and runs like a champ.

Good luck,
Stukboy
 
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