• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

35's and stock axles?

Depends on a lot... I'd trust a late model 8.25" or a d44 with 35s no problem, and a 30 if you baby it or dump your life savings into it. A d35? hell no.
 
im going to ask the obvious question, why do you need 35's if you only do mild wheeling?

but to answer yours, you can make you axles last on 35's with some upgrades and a light foot.
 
i run stock shafts in my 30 and 44 and its held up fine.. just gotta know how to drive.
 
I ran a stock lp30 and 8.25 in my last jeep. Never had any issues but I am not a point and shoot driver, I dont romp on the gas too often. Broke my transfer case twice without ever having axle issues.

Just get some Spicer 760x u joints with full circle clips and go for it.
 
i broke a front shaft in a 30 my first day out on 35s. i got in a bad spot and had to give throttle. broke an ear off an inner the was ground for full circle clips
 
I run a stock HPD30 with 4.56 but no locker in the front and the rear is a D44 with a Detroit in it. I run 35's mostly to cope with the ruts etc. I've had no issues but then I pretty much crawl everything. Just keep an eye on the unis etc.

Cheers
Steve
 
any stock axles 35's are fine. just get chromo shafts for them and call it a day. don't drive like a retard then they'll be fine. mine held up for almost two years of hang time and black out full throttle assaults.
 
Open diffs it's fine. Locked front you might want alloy axle shafts. Locked rear you probably want a Chrysler axle or Dana 44.

You'll want to regear any of them.
 
Everyone has their own opinion on this. Plenty of people do it and succeed. Plenty of people do it and break all kinds of crap.

I wheel the crap out my Jeep. Not afraid of a tough trail and not afraid to use the throttle. Broke both ring gears, but fixed em both and they survived my last trip out.
 
Everyone has their own opinion on this. Plenty of people do it and succeed. Plenty of people do it and break all kinds of crap.

I wheel the crap out my Jeep. Not afraid of a tough trail and not afraid to use the throttle. Broke both ring gears, but fixed em both and they survived my last trip out.

How do you fix a broken ring gear????
 
How do you fix a broken ring gear????

duh, you weld the teeth back on.:conceited


to the OP, my D30 lasted for years with 34" heavy bias super swampers and a lockright. Try to pick the lightest 35 you can, rotating mass has a lot to do with it.

I do not have an all out throttle attack wheeling style, but I'm not afraid to hammer it when needed.

if you have a D35 in the back, replace it, 8.8 is my preference, but that's just because I hate drum brakes.
 
Im running stock HP30 (open) and 27 spline 8.25 (welded) with 35" kevlars, and havent had a single problem with them. Both even still ahve 3.55 gears
 
The higher the gear ratio is (gearing wise, not numerically) the stronger the gearset will *most likely* be. There are exceptions.

This is because the pinion size is larger for high gearing, with more teeth, while the ring gear diameter stays the same (it gets thinner but that generally isn't a concern.) Your axleshafts will also thank you for the high gearing, because they see less torque this way, but this means your driveshafts and transfer case see comparably more torque, and less torque at the wheels usually means worse performance offroad.
 
The higher the gear ratio is (gearing wise, not numerically) the stronger the gearset will *most likely* be. There are exceptions.

This is because the pinion size is larger for high gearing, with more teeth, while the ring gear diameter stays the same (it gets thinner but that generally isn't a concern.) Your axleshafts will also thank you for the high gearing, because they see less torque this way, but this means your driveshafts and transfer case see comparably more torque, and less torque at the wheels usually means worse performance offroad.

Pretty much why tj street queen mall crawlers can get by with 3.07's and big tars.


Tapatalky
 
I've been running 35 bfg all terrains on my D35 for 2 years as daily driver and offroading rig. I've never broken a rear axle shaft (even with sick burnouts!); broken one front axle shaft when my friend was mashing the gas trying to get over a fallen tree.

In the end it depends mostly on how you are going to drive your jeep. balls-to-the-wall trail riding=upgrade your axle first. more delicate off roading=you can definitely get by
 
I've been running 35 bfg all terrains on my D35 for 2 years as daily driver and offroading rig. I've never broken a rear axle shaft (even with sick burnouts!); broken one front axle shaft when my friend was mashing the gas trying to get over a fallen tree.

In the end it depends mostly on how you are going to drive your jeep. balls-to-the-wall trail riding=upgrade your axle first. more delicate off roading=you can definitely get by

good lord, 35's on a D35?

ticking time bomb, and this is from a guy that killed three. FWIW I never broke a shaft either... Gear sets on the other hand.
 
Back
Top