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Crank shaft pulley?

XJ-Mayhem

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
San Jose, CA
So I've noticed that my crankshaft pulley seems to be just digging into my block and making a quite loud squeaking noise...it's left a nice indent there too.

Is there just some spacer behind the pulley that has deteriorated? Or is this a bigger issue?
 
It's a common problem with the harmonic balancers on the 4.0L-- the outer ring (pulley) separates from the inner portion of the balancer and begins to rub the timing cover and cause belt misalignment.

Replace the balancer and solve two problems with one solution.
 
Whoa, that was weird, I always used to use the name Shorty on other forums and for a second I was like wait...I didn't reply to this thread.


Okay, so that sounds simple enough...the pulley itself is good though? Just need to replace the balancer which the pulley sits over?


Now the hard part, actually doing it lol. I was searching earlier and it sounded like some people needed to remove the radiator to successfully do this. Will this be an issue on my 1990? I don't have the means of draining my coolant really...although I probably really should, it is a nasty rust color.

Rent puller from auto store, make sure I use long enough puller bolt to grab threads well, pull pulley and replace harmonic balancer and I'm good to go?
 
pulley and balancer are one part-- shouldn't come apart unless you wait too long to change it. Search for a write-up and you'll see everything you ever wanted to know.

P.S. Shorty is really my name, so I don't find it too weird when I see it.....:looney:
 
pulley and balancer are one part-- shouldn't come apart unless you wait too long to change it. Search for a write-up and you'll see everything you ever wanted to know.

P.S. Shorty is really my name, so I don't find it too weird when I see it.....:looney:

Oh okay, so when I go to buy the new balancer it will have the pulley on it too.

Damn, it's like $120 OEM from Jeep, or $80 from NAPA, I think I may just go with the Jeep one. I like to go original every time that I can.


Ah what is the world coming to!!

Do the coolant flush.

I would really like to, but how do you suggest dealing with the old liquid?

All I've got is an oil catch tub for oil changes, and that isn't big enough to catch spilling water. I know because I tried yesterday when I was doing my water pump.
 
Oh okay, so when I go to buy the new balancer it will have the pulley on it too.

The harmonic balancer IS the pulley

Damn, it's like $120 OEM from Jeep, or $80 from NAPA, I think I may just go with the Jeep one. I like to go original every time that I can.

I would really like to, but how do you suggest dealing with the old liquid?
Take it to a recycling center and get rid of it responsibly

All I've got is an oil catch tub for oil changes, and that isn't big enough to catch spilling water.

Get a bigger bucket

Where do I empty the bucket after haha

Do you have a cat?? Like I said...dispose or recycle reesponsibly...it's sweet, dogs and cats love the stuff...and it'll kill them *JUST LIKE THAT*

But seriously the harmonic balancer is a prretty easy job, easier with the front bumper and/or radiator out. Not necessary to remove either, just makes the HB job easier.

Hint #1: Put the Jeep in Park and block the wheels to get the bolt off the HB (4th or 5th gear if you have a manual shift.)

Hint #2: Upon reinstalling the HB rotate the engine with the main bolt until the keyway is straight down (it makes it alot easier to line up the key on the HB/crank snout)

Hint #3: If the pulley (HB) has worn a hole in the timing cover, replace it. If not, and it's not leaking you can just replace the crank seal and the HB.

Going without replacing the HB when it's shifting and coming apart will eventually cost you a belt and a tow. Cheaper in the long run.

Good luck!!
 
Do you have a cat?? Like I said...dispose or recycle reesponsibly...it's sweet, dogs and cats love the stuff...and it'll kill them *JUST LIKE THAT*

But seriously the harmonic balancer is a prretty easy job, easier with the front bumper and/or radiator out. Not necessary to remove either, just makes the HB job easier.

Hint #1: Put the Jeep in Park and block the wheels to get the bolt off the HB (4th or 5th gear if you have a manual shift.)

Hint #2: Upon reinstalling the HB rotate the engine with the main bolt until the keyway is straight down (it makes it alot easier to line up the key on the HB/crank snout)

Hint #3: If the pulley (HB) has worn a hole in the timing cover, replace it. If not, and it's not leaking you can just replace the crank seal and the HB.

Going without replacing the HB when it's shifting and coming apart will eventually cost you a belt and a tow. Cheaper in the long run.

Good luck!!


When I was asking what to do with the coolant I did mean what to responsibly do with it :gee:


If I can find sufficient buckets with lids tomorrow morning, then I'll do it with the radiator out. Do I need to remove the manual fan to get the rad out?

I can see it's worn a nice groove, and most likely a hole. How much will the timing cover run me too :wow:
Do I need to remove the rest of the pulleys to get the timing cover replaced?

Thanks, I appreciate it. My good friend's dad said I can bring it to his shop and he'll loan me the tools/catch pans for coolant and make sure I do it all right but then I need to tow it there and that is another $60.
I'm not afraid of tackling it myself, just spent 9ish hours working on the Heep the past 2 days, an hour and a half of it in the rain :(
 
As Paradise said, do not overlook the front seal while you have the HB off.

If the timing cover is leaking, it can be patched with JB Weld. Just make sure you clean the cut really well, so the epoxy will stick. There is very low stress at the point where it gets cut.

Buy your seal and HB from rockauto.com. They were by far the cheapest when I replaced mine last year. You can get both parts there for $60 plus shipping.
 
As Paradise said, do not overlook the front seal while you have the HB off.

If the timing cover is leaking, it can be patched with JB Weld. Just make sure you clean the cut really well, so the epoxy will stick. There is very low stress at the point where it gets cut.

Buy your seal and HB from rockauto.com. They were by far the cheapest when I replaced mine last year. You can get both parts there for $60 plus shipping.

Okay, I suppose I will do that as well. Is that just as simple as popping out the old one and sliding in the new one once I get it torn down?

I'll see if I can JB weld it, but I may just replace it if it isn't too expensive.

I don't have time to wait for them to ship the part, I need it fixed like yesterday.
I got dealer pricing on the HB from Jeep so I should be in a better position than before.

If you get one from Jeep they want you to remove the oil slinger as the hb has a longer flange. I don't think the aftermarket ones are like that.
 
Little tip:

The OEM bolt is too short to start the new HB on.

Purchase a new bolt that is 2"-3" longer than the OEM bolt, along with some appropriate size fender washers. Grease the washers, then put them on the longer bolt. Use the longer bolt to start pulling the HB on the crank. Remove some of the washers and pull the HB further on. Repeat. Now, use the OEM bolt to secure the HB and torque it down.
 
I'll see if I can JB weld it, but I may just replace it if it isn't too expensive.
Not sure what you are talking about but there is nothing in that area that can be fixed with JB weld
 
Check RockAuto for this.DORMAN Part # 594018
MoreInfo2.png
{#33002920, 83501488} Serpentine Belt; Diameter; 7-1/2"; Width: 1-7/8"; Weight (lbs.): 8
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getimage.php

$31.79
 
Not sure what you are talking about but there is nothing in that area that can be fixed with JB weld

I think he's just contemplating patching the groove in the timing cover if it's worn through. I, too, have used it (actually Quicksteel) to repair timing covers with great success.
 
Well I got it on, and I got the small hole it had worn down in the timing cover JB-Welded...but I also had gotten a screw driver stuck in it when I used it to keep the pulley from turning while I was tightening. Took me a good 20m to get it out, in the rain by the way.

So it's back on and everything, but I still have a small squeak. Not as bad as before, when it was clearly the balancer rubbing the timing cover.
Now it's a small chirp, but it isn't constant. The chirp comes every 5-10 seconds and lasts for like another 5 seconds.
 
Check RockAuto for this.DORMAN Part # 594018 [IM]http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/images/MoreInfo2.png[/IMG] {#33002920, 83501488} Serpentine Belt; Diameter; 7-1/2"; Width: 1-7/8"; Weight (lbs.): 8
us.gif
ca.gif
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=14154&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/RB/594-018-007.jpg/IMG]
$31.79[/QUOTE]

Wound up getting the OEM Jeep one for $60. Thanks though.


[QUOTE="Shorty, post: 245243128, member: 24010"]I think he's just contemplating patching the groove in the timing cover if it's worn through. I, too, have used it (actually Quicksteel) to repair timing covers with great success.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, I did exactly that. I used too little hardener though so it dried a little slower than I would have liked.
 
It is completely not necessary to pull the radiator to change the balancer, nor do I think doing so will make it easier. If I were to suggest removing anything to make the task easier, I would say remove the bumper. I changed the balancer on my '91 without removing anything, then a couple weeks later I changed the balancer on my '99, which happened to have the bumper off at that time. I found it easier to see with the bumper off.

X2 on listening to Joe and getting a larger 1/2-20 bolt to start the balancer back on.
 
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