Engine won't run

OK, let's start with the basics:
I have a 92XJ with a stock 4.0,AW4, 231 with a SYE.
I removed the airbox and installed a "cold air/air tube and cone filter.
I also run a Holly fuel pump speced for my engine.

The issue is:
When I turn the key, it will crank, it will briefly fire/start but then as soon as I let off the key(return to "on" position) it will stall.
Even when on the gas it will stall out.
I have fuel pressure at the rail, I changed the crank sensor on the bellhousing, i replaced the distributer and cam position sensor and changed the plugs.
Oh yea, it does have gas in the fuel cell.

Any thoughts?
What should I check next?

Thanx for any input,
Stukboy

I wonder if there is enough "slop" in the key/lock cylinder to remote rod and ignition switch that you aren't shutting off the engine when you return the key to ON.

Check adjustment of the ignition switch/remote rod on the steering column. Does the key feel "sloppy" in the lock cylinder?

check the hose to the map sensor!

Thanx for both comments.

No slop in ignition, didn't check the map yet.
Stukboy

Classic symptoms of a bad ballast resistor. Your 92 should have this, I believe they existed through 93.

On the fenderwell I believe. Cream colored.

The ballast resistor is bypassed with the key in the START position, so even if it is bad, you get fuel for a bit until you let off the key.

Try bypassing it. If that works you can leave it bypassed or replace it, as it is there only to reduce noise on the fuel pump circuit. Newer models don't even have one.

@birchlakexj, do you mean splice the wires together? At one time it was smoking pretty bad. the resister that is.
Thanx for the info, i will try that.

Use a piece of wire to bridge the two connectors of the resistor. That effectively bypasses it.

And if that resistor was smoking, that is another clue that it is TOAST

Or buy one for about $10.

Let us know if this fixes it. My money is that it will.