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J20 box install with SBS.

A

austinaubinoe

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Montgomery County, MD
Ok so I was driving in the snow a couple weeks ago and it was just to much stress on my unibody. It flexed so much in a turn that it cracked and sheered off the lowest steering box bolt. So now I have a JKS SBS system to go on, and a J20 box that I ordered from Rock Auto.

3 of the holes on the J20 box are identical to the stock box, but how can I use the 4 bolt hole? Anybody done this? Just drill a 4th hole? The JKS kit only comes with enough hardware for a 3 hole box, but I could just buy another bolt, and stack some washers as the spacer.

Also, I have an issue with the power steering lines. I ordered a J20 box for a pre '80 j20. These are meant for flared lines, as apposed to o ring style lines. The reason I did not order a 80-88 J20 box is that they are very scarce, and parts houses are now selling J10 boxes because they fit. Did not want to take the chance.

So, what do you think I should do about the lines? If I order stock '78 j20 lines.... would they bolt up to my power steering pump?
 
Has nobody installed a J20 box?


Here is a picture comparing the stock and J20 box. My stock aluminum spacer was surprising still intact! It matched up perfect on both boxes.
cd5a94f4.jpg
 
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For the 4th hole you can either ignore it (it will be the same strength as the XJ mounting) or you can try one of the 4-hole YJ converter plates from JCR Offroad or T&T. I would check with them for the dimensions to make sure it will work before dropping the coin. Sometimes those aftermarket plates will also include a sleeve for the bolt so the frame rail doesn't collapse.

For the fittings, you can look around for adapters or you go buy some hard line, hosing, and the necessary fittings, and make new line. You may also be able to remove and replace the fittings, dunno, but I've seen that done on pumps and such. Any garage can make the hard line with fittings for $30 or so... The return line should just be high-temp rubber hosing
 
ehall said:
For the 4th hole you can either ignore it (it will be the same strength as the XJ mounting) or you can try one of the 4-hole YJ converter plates from JCR Offroad or T&T. I would check with them for the dimensions to make sure it will work before dropping the coin. Sometimes those aftermarket plates will also include a sleeve for the bolt so the frame rail doesn't collapse.

For the fittings, you can look around for adapters or you go buy some hard line, hosing, and the necessary fittings, and make new line. You may also be able to remove and replace the fittings, dunno, but I've seen that done on pumps and such. Any garage can make the hard line with fittings for $30 or so... The return line should just be high-temp rubber hosing
Click to expand...

Since I already have the JKS SBS, I guess I will just be ignoring the 4th hole?


So, If I bought a J20 High pressure line, you dont think it would bolt into my power steering pump?

Thanks.
 
austinaubinoe said:
Since I already have the JKS SBS, I guess I will just be ignoring the 4th hole?


So, If I bought a J20 High pressure line, you dont think it would bolt into my power steering pump?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Use a stock XJ line and just cut and flare the end to go into the box. The J20 line pressure line will not work with your power steering pump.
 
cmelo said:
Use a stock XJ line and just cut and flare the end to go into the box. The J20 line pressure line will not work with your power steering pump.
Click to expand...

Interesting. So cut the tip of the o ring fitting off, then flair it like a brake line?



whitexj98 said:
So what makes the J-20 box better?
Click to expand...

Bigger piston, 4 bolt mount. tighter ratio iirc.
 
ehall said:
yeah just install the right fitting, nothing magic about it
Click to expand...

What fitting exactly? It may seem straight forward to you, But I have never done anything like this!

Oh and check this out:

580a8d88.jpg


So the high pressure output fitting is removable from the pump. Is it possible to buy a J20 pump output fitting and just bolt in the existing pump? Then A j20 pressure line would bolt right up at both ends. :dunno:

THANKS
 
ok well I have my bumper off, steering box removed and fender brackets unbolted, time to start fitting the SBS.

Is this weld through primer? The guy at HD said it should work.

abe58460.jpg


If its not the right stuff, can you explain what would make "weld through" primer different then the stuff I bought?

thanks.
 
Some progress

daaaeab0.jpg




I gotta know if that primer will work. If not, is there a local chain that would carry it? Thanks.
 
ehall said:
Does it say weldable or weld-thru primer? If it doesn't say it then it isnt
Click to expand...

yeah thanks. Did a little more reading about it, and it looks like "Weld Through Primer" isnt really primer after all. It seems that you cant even paint over it.

ANYWAYS, is there any store/ chain that sells it? Or do I have to order it online?
 
austinaubinoe said:
yeah thanks. Did a little more reading about it, and it looks like "Weld Through Primer" isnt really primer after all. It seems that you cant even paint over it.

ANYWAYS, is there any store/ chain that sells it? Or do I have to order it online?
Click to expand...

Why do you need it? Just weld, and paint over it when you're done :dunno: I've never felt the need for it.
 
ACE Hardware sells a cold galvanizing spray that is also a weld through primer. I used that stuff on my unibody stiffeners. Its not the greatest stuff in the world. It looks like a primer (not all shinny) but made it a little more difficult to start the arc until it burned off. I just ordered some Eastwood brand and TCP brand copper based weld through primer off Amazon. Dont know how well they work yet.
 
stewie said:
ACE Hardware sells a cold galvanizing spray that is also a weld through primer. I used that stuff on my unibody stiffeners. Its not the greatest stuff in the world. It looks like a primer (not all shinny) but made it a little more difficult to start the arc until it burned off. I just ordered some Eastwood brand and TCP brand copper based weld through primer off Amazon. Dont know how well they work yet.
Click to expand...

THANKS, Ill look into it tomorrow. There is an ACE 2 miles away!


cmelo said:
Why do you need it? Just weld, and paint over it when you're done :dunno: I've never felt the need for it.
Click to expand...

Well Im just gonna stitch weld it so I dont damage the unibody, worried about water getting trapped and rusting out the bare metal. I guess it really is not a huge issue, but I dont want to half ass this job. Im already in close to $300 for this upgrade, whats a another $10 for a special primer.
 
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Why don't you just look at what thread the fittings are on the J20 vs the stock setup is and head down to the local hydralics shop and get a line made? Either that or just use ehall's advise and re-flare the stock line.

Use the 4th bolt. 10 minutes of time to get a simple sleeve in the uni-rail and the extra bolt will be well worth it.

I also would not use a weld through primer. Most primers by nature are hygroscopic (attracts moisture) and will just further cause issues if not painted. I would clear only the sections that you need to weld. Then a good primer (like you already bought) and several good coats of paint. That should do it and well outlast the rest of the XJ.
 
Ok thanks, I wont use primer then.


Another issue I have having is the bolts that go through the unibody into the steering box seem to be to short! Is this a known issue with the JKS SBS?
 
Did they supply you with new bolts?

The stock ones won't work since you just added whatever the thickness of the metal is, and they are JUST long enough in the stock application.
 
The reason for weld through primer is that the unreachable backside of anything you weld will have the paint and galvanization burnt off it, so it'll rust easily. Problem is, you have to get the weld through primer onto the same unreachable stuff to have any effect. I wouldn't bother.

The bolts are 7/16"-14, I believe stock ones are 4" or 4.5" long from bottom of head to point. Fastenal stocks 7/16-14 grade8 in better length variety than grainger et al, and in bags of 5. Measure how long you need it and buy them.
 
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