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Tapping Dana 30 to Replace Roll Pin with Bolt

XJRN

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indiana
I am putting an aussie into my d30. My last one had the roll pin fall out and the whole diff went KABOOM.

I have read about people tapping the carrier and putting in a bolt instead of a roll. I want to do this to make sure this doesn't happen again. I am having a hard time figuring out what part of the carrier to tap though. The hole in the carrier is the same as the one in the cross shaft. If I tap the carrier, the bolt will be too big to fit through the cross shaft. I would be afraid the cross shaft would not tap easily as I just broke one driving out the roll pin. I am thinking about just tapping the first part of the carrier then grinding the threads off the bolt so it will fit through the shaft and the back side of the carrier. My only concern is that it won't be as tight as the roll pin and may allow slight movements of the cross shaft. Should I do this or try to tap the whole thing or any better ideas? I need this together by Sat. Also anyone know where I can get a new cross shaft?

Thanks!
 
No it's not and yes it will fit your Dana 30, besides you'd probably want to tap the carrier not the cross shaft. The cross shaft is hardened I'd assume so maybe take it down to the local machine shop to be drilled out a little bit.
 
No it's not and yes it will fit your Dana 30, besides you'd probably want to tap the carrier not the cross shaft. The cross shaft is hardened I'd assume so maybe take it down to the local machine shop to be drilled out a little bit.


It says "threaded" on that cross shaft. What is that in reference to? Would drilling it out weaken it?
 
I think I am just going to use a new roll pin and press fit locktite then pray it doesn't come out again.
 
The roll pin should be "staked" in after you install it.
 
The roll pin should be "staked" in after you install it.
Never heard this one - and all the roll pin failures I've seen were from reused roll pins that split along their length.

What diameter is the roll pin? I seem to recall it being slightly over 3/16", if so, get a 1/4" (or whatever size has a minor diameter slightly larger than the roll pin) then stuff it in a lathe (a drill press and a file or dremel/angle grinder makes a good poor man's lathe for this) and take the threads off past the portion that goes into the cross shaft. Then tap the carrier as far as the cross shaft hole with the appropriate thread and loctite it in.

Check the cross shaft retention bolts for a ford 8.8 and chrysler 8.25 and see if they might be suitable, they have a 5/16" head and are threaded for a short length then unthreaded for the portion that goes through the cross shaft.
 
Never heard this one - and all the roll pin failures I've seen were from reused roll pins that split along their length.

What diameter is the roll pin? I seem to recall it being slightly over 3/16", if so, get a 1/4" (or whatever size has a minor diameter slightly larger than the roll pin) then stuff it in a lathe (a drill press and a file or dremel/angle grinder makes a good poor man's lathe for this) and take the threads off past the portion that goes into the cross shaft. Then tap the carrier as far as the cross shaft hole with the appropriate thread and loctite it in.

Check the cross shaft retention bolts for a ford 8.8 and chrysler 8.25 and see if they might be suitable, they have a 5/16" head and are threaded for a short length then unthreaded for the portion that goes through the cross shaft.

Thats kinda what I was thinking. I looked up the 8.8 retention bolt and that gives me a good picture of what it should look like. I may try to go this route. I need this together before winterfest and I will be in FL the week before so 1 week left is all I have to work on it....let's hope I get it together.
 
I think I am just going to use a new roll pin and press fit locktite then pray it doesn't come out again.
this is what i did, brand new roll pin and loctite the shit out of it
and all the roll pin failures I've seen were from reused roll pins that split along their length.

this, NEVER EVAR REUSE THE ROLL PIN!!1!!111!!
 
Never heard this one

Doesn't suprise me,it helps if youv'e actually turned wrenches for years.
Read page 33!
Other common things that get staked:
Connecting rod bolts/nuts,throttle plate screws,pinion nuts!
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5304-2.pdf

To the OP,what your talking about is just a bad idea,you can buy a new bare case for $60.
 
Doesn't suprise me,it helps if youv'e actually turned wrenches for years.
Read page 33!
Other common things that get staked:
Connecting rod bolts/nuts,throttle plate screws,pinion nuts!
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5304-2.pdf

To the OP,what your talking about is just a bad idea,you can buy a new bare case for $60.

What is a bad idea? Think I should just use the roll pin?
 
It says to peen the case over the pin. What does that mean?
 
all I knew about staking was hub nuts on independent suspension vehicles, all the nuts that come pre-staked from the factory on XJs (LCA, leaf spring, steering wheel, brake booster, and d30/8.25 pinion.)

I'd never heard of staking a roll pin in place before. Apparently, neither have a lot of other people.

EDIT: XJRN - looking at a spare d30 carrier I have sitting here, I see what it's talking about. The pin goes all the way in, then you'll see that there is a recessed section it went through. Apparently it means to use a small punch and a hammer to spread some of the metal from the sides of that hole down over the roll pin end to keep it from sliding out. Don't need to completely cover it obviously, just push enough down to create a ridge it can't get past easily.
 
Doesn't suprise me,it helps if youv'e actually turned wrenches for years.
Read page 33!
Other common things that get staked:
Connecting rod bolts/nuts,throttle plate screws,pinion nuts!
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5304-2.pdf

To the OP,what your talking about is just a bad idea,you can buy a new bare case for $60.

Way to dig up some really old azzed service manual ;)

No, I don't stake roll pins in the carrier, there is no need to. Roll pins are pounded in and there is no lateral force applied to them once installed. The factory doesn't even stake them in. If you have a roll pin that slides into place instead of needing to be pounded in, you need a new roll pin.

The OP wants to do this, not to save $60 on a new carrier, but doesn't want to setup a new one.
Personally, for the number of times that one even touches the cross shaft retainer (bolt or roll pin), you don't need anything but the stock stuff.
 
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All I know is my last axle blew up because the roll pin fell out and the cross shaft hit the pinion and I REALLY don't want that to happen again. I bought a complete axle from the JY as I don't know how to set gears and a gear set, carrier, and bearing along with paying someone to set them up is a lot more $$ than the $150 I spent on a complete axle. Plus now I have spare shafts. I just want to swap my aussie to this axle without the pin falling out/shearing/whatever it did.
 
Roll pins don't just slid out unless they are compressed (bad). I've done a number of locker installs and don't exactly treat them nicely. I checked the diffs at every oil change; they never move.

If it gives you more security, replace the Roll Pin.
 
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