transfer case yoke angles

I'm trying to resort my angles after an alignment. Here they are currently.
I have:
Front T/C Yoke Up 5 degrees
Front Pinion Yoke Up 5.5 degrees
Rear T/C Yoke Down 4 degrees
Rear Pinion Yoke Up 12 degrees

I have 6 degree shims in the rear.

I have been reading trying to make sure I understand what I'm doing and am stumped as to whether my front t/c yoke should be pointing up? Is that normal? I was looking at Tom Woods site and it was mentioned the trans case output could be measured at the transmission pan but mine reads 0 degrees on the pan and rear yoke is down 4.

I don't have my driveshafts back yet so I don't have angles for those. They should be here today.

BTW. I just reinstalled my trans mount after putting in a 3" mount. It was way to tall. I was totally off track thinking the original trans mount that was in it was wrong.

Yes the front output will point UP and the rear output will point Down by the exact opposite degree(Front up 4*/rear down 4*).

I just put the front shaft in and I'm 11 degrees on the driveshaft and 5 degrees on the front pinion yoke. I wonder why I have vibrations. So I'm now thinking the angle got changed when I got new tires and alignment. I didnt even think about the fact they would change the pinion angle putting factory caster on it. So I drove through an entire set of tires about 35k miles with vibes because I forgot to check my angles.

Allright I took out my front shaft and rotated my front pinion to withing one degree of the driveshaft. I'm currently at 11 degrees on the front shaft and 10 degrees on the front pinion yoke. I left it out and my vibes are almost gone. I'm close to sorting this out but cant figure out why I have vibrations as soon as it shifts into overdrive? I just got my rebuilt shaft back and my rear driveshaft it at 13.5 degrees and my rear yoke is pointed up 12 degrees. I thought that would be perfect but apparently not. So, without wanting to cut the perches and reweld them at lets say 13 I'm not sure what I can do. Seems a lot of work to get one degree and then it may still vibrate.

I was looking at another post I made a couple years back and remembered that after I installed my m.o.r.e motor mounts the Jeep seemed like it would shift into overdrive sooner than before. Thoughts and help appreciated.

Do you have a SYE kit?Also in the front you just destroyed your castor angle.

Yes I have the sye. Heavy duty. I used to have a damn signature. I cant find where to put it back. Anyway, I have a 2000 4.0 AW4 231 SYE OME 3" lift with rear OME add a leaf. Currently the rear is an inch taller than the front. Ground to rear wheel arch is 35 3/4" and 34 3/4" in the front. Gonna get some pucks to level the front. Caster is toast I am guessing at this point but I wanted to make sure that once I put the front shaft in there will be no vibes. From what I got on Go Jeeps site I am at 5 degrees caster. Dont know how to measure caster without jacking up the Jeep and taking the wheel off. Not sure why I had to roll the diff so much but thats what the angle called for in order for it be in line with the front shaft. After I took off the upper control arms the diff seemed like it almost rolled itself to the correct angle. I didnt remove the lowers and didnt adjust them. I did loosen the bolts but then retightened them after I got the uppers where I wanted them. Jeep seemed pretty darty on the road. Right now I don't really want to put the front shaft in until I get the rear sorted.

well i reset my angles. i have no idea what i'm doing apparently. i measured my lift from the centerline of the hubs to the bottom of the wheel arch and have 4.25" lift in the front from my ome zj coils that have around 60k miles on them. there rusty as heck but i guess they havent sagged at all. the rear is 3" ome leafs with the ome add a leaf for a total of 4.75". The rear sits half inch higher and i'm either going to load it up or put a spacer in the front. when i measured earlier i only had 1/4 tank of gas.

now to the questions. i set my uca to 15" and my lowers to 16.25". I'm guessing that is measured from the center of the bushings? Also, could someone please explain how extending the lca helps with my pinion angle? It seems to me the longer I make it the more my diff points down. how do i extend the lca and get the diff to roll up w/o extending the uca which everywhere i've looked says stay with stock 15"?

just remeasured on level ground. boy that makes a difference. i have a lift of 3.75 front and 4.25 rear.

just picked up a hp30. rusted to bejeezuz. hoping that will fix my issues w/o rotating c's. still looking for some help if anyone is even on this site anymore.