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switching to a ox locker

J

jimbow912

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Brockton
I want to put a ox locket in my dana 30 i have a lock right in there now and starting not to like it want to know if u can use the same shims thats on the dana 30 carrier and just swap it over the OX locker with out redoing a set up all over again
 
Just re-installed mine last week. You'll probably need new shims. The ox can be a pain in the a** to get in.
 
You will not need to reset the pinion, as I think you already know, but you might have to reset the carrier. I suggest you measure the backlash before you take it apart. Then get some setup bearings and set the backlash with the locker to as close as possible to what it was before then install the permanent bearings. This will minimize noise and additional wear. Put a super strong magnet on the inside of the diff cover to capture any wear material after installation.
 
I dont wish a OX locker on even my worst of customers...

Good luck in the front, keeping it adjusted, with how much a XJ front axle can articulate....
 
ROBERTK said:
I dont wish a OX locker on even my worst of customers...

Good luck in the front, keeping it adjusted, with how much a XJ front axle can articulate....
Click to expand...


This. I don't know anyone that runs an Ox, but it just doesn't make sense to me. A very exposed cable on the front of the diff is dumb.

I'd say get an E-locker. They seem pretty low mantinence.
 
well its not so much the exposed cable, but the cable becomes shorter and longer (the actual cable inside the cover) as the radius of bends get bigger and smaller. Meaning it will disengage at times if the cable has to change arc size.
 
ROBERTK said:
I dont wish a OX locker on even my worst of customers...

Good luck in the front, keeping it adjusted, with how much a XJ front axle can articulate....
Click to expand...

Not once have I had mine unlock or had to adjust the cable since the first install over 2 years go. Not even with all the articulation.

sunburned said:
This. I don't know anyone that runs an Ox, but it just doesn't make sense to me. A very exposed cable on the front of the diff is dumb.
Click to expand...

I love when people completely bash on stuff, when they have never even seen one, let alone run one. If you've never run one, quit whining about it.

A very exposed cable is BS. I've never hit mine, and there is barely any exposed. Guess what, you can build a cover for it if you want.

ROBERTK said:
well its not so much the exposed cable, but the cable becomes shorter and longer (the actual cable inside the cover) as the radius of bends get bigger and smaller. Meaning it will disengage at times if the cable has to change arc size.
Click to expand...
This is just untrue.
 
Begster said:
This is just untrue.
Click to expand...

And you are a authority? You for one dont understand logistics of the cable system or how a OX works, thats for sure, with your statment...

*And I will ad, I have installed a handful, and I can without a doubt say that they are the most NON user friendly. And even the owner knows this and has known recommendations, to help with the KNOWN issues.

You might be one of the Lucky ones, kinda like me and my 07 ford 6.0. But just cause I have had not one issue, doesnt make the 6.0 a great engine, or does it?
 
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I feel pretty satisfied with mine. Couldn't tell you it was the best, I've only tested a few others. I don't think the cable location has ever been a problem for me. But that's me. I do know that the cable does need some adjustment every once in a while, even if I use loctite. It's just a locker. An expensive one at that. I'd recommend one if asked. Just my .02.
 
No, I am not an authority, and then again neither are you. I am perfectly aware of how both a cable system works, as well as how the OX works. Yes, if a cable has a large bend in it, the cable inside the sheath will move, but there would have to be some pretty drastic changes to unlock the shift fork. Could it be possible you were working with some of the older lever/cable systems? I remember reading somewhere they did a little work on the shifter system, and the new ones weren't prone to popping out like the older ones. I can say I like my newer style shifter a lot better than my older style I have for the rear.

Maybe I am one of the lucky ones.
 
I have installed an Ox in a D30 before. It was a major pita to install, however, once installed, the customer reported troublefree operation for a couple of years before he sold the rig.
 
Begster said:
No, I am not an authority, and then again neither are you. I am perfectly aware of how both a cable system works, as well as how the OX works. Yes, if a cable has a large bend in it, the cable inside the sheath will move, but there would have to be some pretty drastic changes to unlock the shift fork. Could it be possible you were working with some of the older lever/cable systems? I remember reading somewhere they did a little work on the shifter system, and the new ones weren't prone to popping out like the older ones. I can say I like my newer style shifter a lot better than my older style I have for the rear.

Maybe I am one of the lucky ones.
Click to expand...

Umm I am pretty darn close to an athority on em, or as close as you can get without being part of the business...

The new style shifter, is mearly ONLY a spring added in to the shifter mech, to allow those that are more of a mall cruiser and cant just apply force to the shifter level while trying to engage it and moving forward or back, till the splines align. With the new style your allowing the spring to hold force till it engauges. But if you call and talk to anyone at OX, they recommend removing it for more trouble free install and less chances of random shift issues.

I have installed a very fair share of these. And no longer offer install on them.

yes there are cases of good results, but why do a OX over a ARB or even a Elocker, in a D30 or even D44? They are more $, you dont get the added benifit of OBA, and the chances of ongoing issues is by far greater, with the OX. the only pro I see is that they look like a work of art...

Have you noticed that they had to start offering a Air actuator and a electric actuator for them, about a year or so ago? Due to so many cable related issues?
 
Begster said:
I love when people completely bash on stuff, when they have never even seen one, let alone run one. If you've never run one, quit whining about it.
Click to expand...

I love when people use this argument. As an engineer, why would I spend a fortune on a locker that I don't like the design of? That whole "don't knock it til you tried it" doesn't work because I'll never try it. I've heard plenty of compaints from people with them to know I don't want one. The cable system has a lot of inherent problems, which have already been discussed here. I'm glad yours works great though.

I'm just kindly suggesting to go with a tried and true ARB, which I have, or an E-locker, which is extremely simple and maintenance free with its two wire hookup.
 
The whole point of a shift cable with a sheath is that the sheath and cable inside it are co-axial and thus have the same length no matter how you bend it (within reason.) The only reason I don't like the OX design is because I hate shift cables due to the routing/bend radius constraints, not because of this "it will shift as the cable bends" mumbo jumbo.

I'd run one, with an electric shifter, if I felt like spending that kind of cash on a locker.
 
kastein said:
The whole point of a shift cable with a sheath is that the sheath and cable inside it are co-axial and thus have the same length no matter how you bend it (within reason.) The only reason I don't like the OX design is because I hate shift cables due to the routing/bend radius constraints, not because of this "it will shift as the cable bends" mumbo jumbo.

I'd run one, with an electric shifter, if I felt like spending that kind of cash on a locker.
Click to expand...


I have heared that even with an electric shifter or an air shifter a cable is still needed. Is this true?
Also, how is the cable routed from the D30 to the cab with the bend radius that is recommended by OX?
 
techno1154 said:
Also, how is the cable routed from the D30 to the cab with the bend radius that is recommended by OX?
Click to expand...

through the body side UCA mount then drill a hole into the cab i've found works great.


ROBERTK said:
yes there are cases of good results, but why do a OX over a ARB or even a Elocker, in a D30 or even D44? They are more $, you dont get the added benifit of OBA, and the chances of ongoing issues is by far greater, with the OX. the only pro I see is that they look like a work of art...
Click to expand...

i have a few friends who runs OXs... not one has an issue. D30s and D44s.

ARB? i dont want to run air. sorry.

e-locker? sure eaton's unit seems 100% awesome. i wanted one, til i read that the locker needs up to a full rotation to re-engage after changing directions.. meaning you cant back up 2 inches and floor it. itll grenade if you dont allow it to fully engage before applying lots of power. no thanks.

i'm buying an OX for my HP44 next week, even against your 'authority'
 
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