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How to safely remove coil springs

Dannomanno

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Yakima, Wa.
Ok I have read a couple posts and just need a straight forward procedure for removing my coil springs so that I can add spacers. I have a compression tool, but it wont work around the bump stops, (Its dark out and I havn't looked yet) but can I pull the whole bump stop assembly out before I go at this?, or should I just disconect the axle and do it that way? Any input would be great as I will be starting this in the morning.
 
At full droop, you shouldn't have to compress those front coils much. You might have enough by unbolting the lower control arm.

Be warned if you're using low Chinese quality coil compressors like the garbage from Harbor Freight. They can break and become small bombs in their own right. The coil compressors I tried from Harbor Freight bent almost immediately and I promptly threw them in the trash and unbolted the lower control arms for the extra few inches I needed. It wasn't worth the risk of them flying apart and seriously hurting me.
 
Ok, I just went through this unexpected PITA on my 90 XJ with 2" spacer pucks. I'll give you some advice that'll hopefully help. The bumpstop extensions are not removable, as far as I know. I searched countless forums, and there were some great write ups, but all the advice was different. Here it is in a few steps:

1. You will need one, better if two, jacks and a good selection of SAE and metric sockets and open end wrenches. Most of the SAE were 1/2, 9/16, and 3/4. I think one 18 or 19 mm, and a smaller one. You'll need a set of jackstands that can hold your rig. Some guys said I wouldn't need coil spring compressor, but I tried without it and failed. Got the STRUT SPRING COMPRESSOR from Pep Boys for free rental. It saved the day. The regular coil spring compressor doesn't work, as you already know. The strut one clamps the coils on the outside of the spring. Wear safety glasses.

2. Jack up the jeep on one side under the front bolt of the lower control arm or axle tube and remove the wheel. Put at least one jack stand underneath for safety. Also, completely remove the sway bar end link, shock absorber, and unbolt the tie rod end. If you remove the sway bar entirely, it will make it even easier, but not necessary. Remove the coil spring retainer clip. It's threaded into the spring perch, so it just unbolts and comes off. It strips easy, so don't over tighten it when putting it back on.

3. Now, with spring somewhat compressed naturally by the jacked up axle and all the in-the-way stuff disconnected, put the Strut Spring Compressor clamps on the spring. Follow tool instructions carefully, as this could be dangerous if the tool is not used as instructed. Tighten them down, but you don't have to overkill it, since the spring is already compressed some.

4. Here's the fun part. Jack up jeep on same side, under the frame rail close to the front upper control arm or directly under the upper control arm rear bolt. Put a jackstand next to the jack for safety. Jack it up pretty high, if you can.

5. Remove the jackstand under the axle and lower the axle jack slowly. The axle will begin to droop. Nice articulation with all that stuff disco'd.:) As the axle drops, the spring will stay compressed because of the strut tool spring clamps holding it together and will begin to "slide down" the bump stop tube. Hopefully, enough to (a) put the spacer in above it, and (b) enough so you can get it out.

6. Now the funnest part. You will have to wrestle the spring off the perch. It's nerve racking with the clamps on it, as it doesn't go out easily. I found that it came out easiest through the opening on the inside-rear corner. Put the clamped spring assembly somewhere away from you or loved ones. You're on the 10 yard line now.

7. Put the new spacer on the bump stop tube. There's usually a flat spot on the side of the spacer, which faces towards the inside of the fender. You can leave your existing upper coil spring isolator on or take it off. The spacer can be installed without it. My OE ones were tatered, so I put new ones on first with the 2" spacers underneath. You might want to put some grease on the spacer where it meets the isolator and the cupped portion that the spring will sit in. This will help prevent squeaking.

8. Wrestle the clamped spring back on. You might need a helper to hold the spacer up, as the spacer tended to slide down. Make sure the bottom end of the spring is seated properly in the lower perch.

9. Jack the front axle back up again until the spring is seated properly in the new upper spacer. Put a jackstand under the axle for safety. Loosen the spring clamps on the spring. It will expand into the upper and lower seats. Remove the spring clamps when loose enough.

10. Put back on the sway bar end link, shock absorber, spring retainer clip, and reconnect the tie rod end. Put wheel back on. Torque all bolts as specified by your Jeep Service Manual. Remove jackstands and lower the jacks. Touchdown!

That's the first half. Drink a beer at half time, and go do the other side in the same manner. Don't skimp on removing stuff that I mentioned. It takes minutes to remove those parts, including the sway bar, but will take 10x longer if you try to leave them and work around them. Plus make wrestling the spring out more dangerous. PM me if you get stuck.
 
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use a small bottle jack between the top of the axle tube and the framerail.....it will push the axle down far enough to remove the spring (without using a compressor), and also hold it there while you remove the spring, install the spacer, and reinstall the spring.

Unscrew the bumpstop inside the spring before you try to pull the spring out. Use a pipe wrench or a large pair of slipjoint pliers inbetween the spring coils.

Jeff

Picture009.jpg
 
1. The bumpstops ARE removable. Use channel locks or a pipe wrench through the coils, unscrew, drop the bumpstop inside the coil spring. Remove spring.

lktfbumpstop.jpg


2. Reverse procedure for installation. Puck, rubber isolator, spring, then slide the bumpstop in there and pop the spring back up on the perch.
3. Replace bump stop and screw into place using fingers and then the channel locks (or pipe, sink, similar wrench)
 
...8. Wrestle the clamped spring back on. You might need a helper to hold the spacer up, as the spacer tended to slide down. ...

Duct tape is a great helper :)

Planetcat, your writeup is pretty much how I do it. I put the frame on jackstands, then use a floor jack under the axle to raise/lower as needed. I'll have to try the bottle jack to further lower the axle.

Early XJ bumpstop towers screw in, later models are welded in. I don't know what the changeover year is.
 
If you use the spring compressors use the one with the extra safety hooks in the middle. It will have a hook at the top and bottom then a hook that grabs the middle of the spring also.
 
1. The bumpstops ARE removable. Use channel locks or a pipe wrench through the coils, unscrew, drop the bumpstop inside the coil spring. Remove spring.

lktfbumpstop.jpg


2. Reverse procedure for installation. Puck, rubber isolator, spring, then slide the bumpstop in there and pop the spring back up on the perch.
3. Replace bump stop and screw into place using fingers and then the channel locks (or pipe, sink, similar wrench)


according to my ACOS installation instructions, the bumpstops on 97+? XJ's does not unscrew like that.
 
according to my ACOS installation instructions, the bumpstops on 97+? XJ's does not unscrew like that.

yeah, on my 90 XJ they didn't unscrew either. I tried vise grips and a pipe wrench, and it wouldn't budge. I assume it was welded, but the OP has an 87 and sounds like the earlier ones were screw ins.
 
Use strut compressors a high quality set can compress a coil enough to get it off and back on with a 2 inch spacer with out even removing the shock

The idea is to minimize the risk of compressing a spring that much. A compressed spring has a tremendous amount of energy stored in it. I would rather unbolt a few things and not compress or slightly compress the spring to remove it.
 
yeah, on my 90 XJ they didn't unscrew either. I tried vise grips and a pipe wrench, and it wouldn't budge. I assume it was welded, but the OP has an 87 and sounds like the earlier ones were screw ins.

they unscrewed on my 90 when i did my ACOS. no problem


On my 97 the rubber part just pulls out.

it does on all models, but the part that holds the rubber part in would need to be cut off on newer models. whereas on older models the part that holds the rubber bumpstop is removeable. so if he has a newer model he wont be able to get much help by removing the bumpstop.
 
they unscrewed on my 90 when i did my ACOS. no problem




it does on all models, but the part that holds the rubber part in would need to be cut off on newer models. whereas on older models the part that holds the rubber bumpstop is removeable. so if he has a newer model he wont be able to get much help by removing the bumpstop.

Removing the rubber bump stop gave me the clearance I needed, couldn't have done it other wise.
 
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