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Low Oil Pressure Before/After Pump Change

wf_s10

NAXJA Forum User
Location
eufaula alabama
new to the site and need info on oil pressure its a 1990 xj with 169xxx 4.0 20w50 fram filter replaced pump verified gauge is right more the less stock when it is cold 75 psi at 700 at temp 40 at 700 rpm my problem comes in on long trips after awhile the pressure drops to 20 at 2000 rpm the valves rattle when put under load at temp they dont when it is cold and body got any ideals thanks
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

crud stopping up the pump screen? oil getting stuck up at the top end(plugged drain ports in block in lifter galleries)?
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

I have personally seen multiple FRAM filter failures causing loss of oil pressure and even cratered engines. Ask PacEd. Get rid of the FRAM if you value your engine.
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

You say the bottom end was done. Did this include checking clearances? Ditto on the Fram filter, lose that thing.
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

Fram may be good on other vehicles, but I have seen a ton of failures on the XJ with them. This isn't....somebody's brother inlaw second cousin had a problem. PacEd almost lost an engine because of it. Luckily we caught it in time.
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

thanks for the input i will get ride of the filter any one you suggest and yes the bottom end was checked
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

thanks for the input i will get ride of the filter any one you suggest and yes the bottom end was checked

Great suggestions on getting rid of the Fram first and foremost.

What is this "rattling" noise? Is it up near the head or down near the oil pan?

Have you checked your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge?
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

yes checked gauge the rattling is up top like lifter collapses under load but only does it hot does not do it cold
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

Rattling noise in the head region is usually lifters that are being starved of oil.
 
changed filter helped some on pressure but still got the rattling in the topend when hot still dont rattle cold it has 40 psi hot but after prolonged driving it drops to 20
 
new to the site and need info on oil pressure its a 1990 xj with 169xxx 4.0 20w50 fram filter replaced pump verified gauge is right more the less stock when it is cold 75 psi at 700 at temp 40 at 700 rpm my problem comes in on long trips after awhile the pressure drops to 20 at 2000 rpm the valves rattle when put under load at temp they dont when it is cold and body got any ideals thanks

What brand oil are you using. What is the API spec on the oil you are using?

Most of the 20W50 oils drop in pressure due to sheer loss of viscosity. They use polymer additives to get the 50 weight viscosity when hot spec, but under extended drives the polymers sheer and the oil pressure drops. It is normal, it is the oil doing it, not the engine. Some brands, and the older API oil specs (like SL, instead of the newer SM), hold up better. I have found the old API-SL spec Havoline gives me better hot oil pressure on long drives, but I found an old inventory 2 years ago, and stocked up. Autozone has a 20W50 that is still SL spec, that I use on my 89, but it has less miles.

Jeep minimum oil pressure spec is 13 psi (with an accurate gauge!!!!), so if you have a real 20 PSI hot after long drives you are OK.

The noise is another issue entirely.

You might want to read up on ZDDP (zinc....) additive that has been removed from the new oils, that we need in our older engines. There are several long threads, debate about it and flat tappet problems when it is not in oil we use. STP is one one additive that has it that is easy to find that might help.

I used Lucas on mine for 2-3 years ago with MMO together, as I cleaned up my every old (280,000 mile 87, 4.0) and worked the kinks in the valve train (loud ticks and knocks at cold start up), but know I run straight 20W50 Havoline (old SL spec, old inventory), as the noisy valve train is now quite. Mine runs about 58 psi cold and 21 psi in the summer after a 1 hr drive, at hot idle in 100 F weather.

I also never use any oil filter other than K & N now.
 
thanks for the info that helps quit abit that is about what mine does now that i changed from the fram filter may go ahead and put a thing of lucas it ill read up on the oil all ways like to further my knowledge how did you work the kinks out of the valve train ? thanks
 
20 psi verified is fine. I have seen many 4.0 engines run a long, long time (and quiet) at about 10 psi.

You just may have some valve clatter. If it stays the same, consider it a "characteristic", if it bothers you enough and you are sure it is from the top end, replace the head with a fresh one with new components.
 
I got rid of the last of my clatter by trying a recomendation from 5-90
I tended to nurse my 4.0 at rpms too low to index the tappets (or lifters) IIRC the terminology. Seems the trick is to run the RPMs up to about 3500 when the engine is warmed up. Doing that once in while got rid of the last of my clatter, tick, sticking lifter noises. And they were pretty loud on cold start ups. Also routine oil changes with MMO cleaned out the junk, sludge from PO mistreatments.

Keep in mind the 13 psi minimum is at hot idle. At 2500 rpm the pressure should be 20 to 30 PSI IMHO.
 
I got rid of the last of my clatter by trying a recomendation from 5-90
I tended to nurse my 4.0 at rpms too low to index the tappets (or lifters) IIRC the terminology. Seems the trick is to run the RPMs up to about 3500 when the engine is warmed up. Doing that once in while got rid of the last of my clatter, tick, sticking lifter noises. And they were pretty loud on cold start ups. Also routine oil changes with MMO cleaned out the junk, sludge from PO mistreatments.

Keep in mind the 13 psi minimum is at hot idle. At 2500 rpm the pressure should be 20 to 30 PSI IMHO.

Geez, I guess my driving habits make sure I'll not have cold ticking noises.:clap:
 
Re: low oil pressure before and after pump change

I have personally seen multiple FRAM filter failures causing loss of oil pressure and even cratered engines. Ask PacEd. Get rid of the FRAM if you value your engine.

Yup killed mine. The inside of the filter collapsed and stopped all oil from passing further.
 
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