• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

front 44 build ideas

GordoSmasho

Nevada Raisins
NAXJA Member
I have a front HP44 I'm building to grand wagoneer width. I'm also converting to 6lug. I don't want to do high steer but I am doing OTK heim steering. I will be running 35s
I'm wondering the best setup for this situation from the inner c's out. What knuckles spindles ball joints u joints bla bla bla.

I'm building on a budget so there will be trips to the junkyard.
 
I don't see why there would be. It runs the smaller bearings rather than the bigger bearings but there's not THAT much difference. It'll have the 6 lug that you want. As a matter of fact I should have a set of 6 lug hubs and waggy spindles for you pretty cheap. You'll need knuckles, rotors, caliper brackets and calipers. Idk if you'll have to use the waggy C's or not. The ball joints are in the knuckles, not the C's.

Waggy chromo shafts can be had for around 300 bucks...
 
So if I can find a waggy axle I can use the axles and every thing from the c's out.

Is there a manual hub conversion for the wagoneer? I can't seem to find any that arent full time hubs.
 
Yes, Warn, Superwinch, Milemarker, etc. Almost all dana 44 stuff is interchangeable with the old stuff, especially between Chevy/Jeep and Ford. Dodge had some interchangeable, but they used some unit bearings in their axles.

Wagoneers never came with manual locking hubs. The only difference between the slugs and the manual hubs is the drive body and cover, which is why you can convert so easily.
 
Very good info here from our own NAXJA FAQ.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101344


If you're going six lug just use the waggy stuff. If you want high steer capability use chevy knuckles and the rest waggy. Stubs match the spindle, though the stubs will interchange you just might not be able to put the snap ring on the end of the stub shaft, which many don't worry about anyway. Ball joints and axle u-joints are all the same. Some waggy knuckles can be machined for high steer, if you wanted it.

BTW, you need chromo shafts, or the whole swap is almost worthless. Since the axle yokes and joints are the same as a D30, and that's what breaks most often, the only way to get a real upgrade in strength is to use chromo shafts. Once you have good shafts, then the strength upgrade of some of the rest of the parts means something.
 
Back
Top