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Control Arm Bushing help?

teamwestoutdoors

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Eastern Utah
I am in the need of replacing my control arm bushings. I have been reading up on some of the forums just so I can have a good understanding of the process. But, what I'm finding is a discrepancy about whats better, the Prothane Control Arm Bushing or the OEM bushings. I don't want to be putting my time and money into something when I should have went the other road. Any help here?
 
Go with rubber you definately dont want poly.
 
Axle-side upper bushings, right?

If so, drill out all of the rubber, carefully cut the remaining outer sleeve lengthwise with a hacksaw, then use you favorite chanel locks to crush the sleeve until its diameter is small enough to pull out.

This is usually the method I use as my press doesnt even have an adapter that works worth a damn for removal. I typically only use the press for installation.
 
I ended up having a metal pipe cap that was a perfect fit, that and my bigger hammer got the old one out. The trouble came from putting the new one back in. A big C-clamp and my trusty hammer along with about three hours did the trick.
 
put the in the refrigerators freezer when the wife isnt looking :D

or leave the box outside in the frigid temps.

I use a torch to get the old ones out. Melt bushing, remove metal bits with big channel locks.

Be sure to do outside. Messy, but expedient.
 
I have replaced the OEM control arm bushings recently, it is very difficult to get the old ones out. In the past I drilled holes in the rubber, cut/ground out any leftover rubber, threaded a hacksaw blade through the hole to notch the sleeve and remove it. It is a lot of work!

This time around I took the arms to a shop that had a 50 ton press and they were able to get the old bushings out and new bushings in with no drama. It took them a few hours to get to the job so in the meantime I ran around cleaning and lubing things and changing out the engine and trans mounts. Came back to the shop and they only hit me 30 bux for the job so I was a happy camper.

BTW, I noticed replies here saying to stay away from poly bushings but not why.

The reason why is that the OEM bushings are double bonded (both the inner and outer steel sleeves are molded into the rubber so the entire bushing assembly is permanently one piece).

The poly bushings have their inner steel sleeve just slipped into place, so when the suspension moves up and down the steel sleeve has sliding contact against the bushing. And to some degree, the bushing has sliding contact against the control arm mount. It causes squeaks and groans, plus the bushing wears out. It can become a major handling issue within relatively few miles.

BTW I used the Moog bushings in my Jeep.
 
BTW, I noticed replies here saying to stay away from poly bushings but not why.

The reason why is that the OEM bushings are double bonded (both the inner and outer steel sleeves are molded into the rubber so the entire bushing assembly is permanently one piece).

The poly bushings have their inner steel sleeve just slipped into place, so when the suspension moves up and down the steel sleeve has sliding contact against the bushing. And to some degree, the bushing has sliding contact against the control arm mount. It causes squeaks and groans, plus the bushing wears out. It can become a major handling issue within relatively few miles.

BTW I used the Moog bushings in my Jeep.

Not quite...

Poly is too stiff. When your suspension articulates, it twists the arms instead of twisting the bushings. This breaks arms and tears mounts off housings.
 
I have replaced the OEM control arm bushings recently, it is very difficult to get the old ones out. In the past I drilled holes in the rubber, cut/ground out any leftover rubber, threaded a hacksaw blade through the hole to notch the sleeve and remove it. It is a lot of work!

This time around I took the arms to a shop that had a 50 ton press and they were able to get the old bushings out and new bushings in with no drama. It took them a few hours to get to the job so in the meantime I ran around cleaning and lubing things and changing out the engine and trans mounts. Came back to the shop and they only hit me 30 bux for the job so I was a happy camper.

BTW, I noticed replies here saying to stay away from poly bushings but not why.

The reason why is that the OEM bushings are double bonded (both the inner and outer steel sleeves are molded into the rubber so the entire bushing assembly is permanently one piece).

The poly bushings have their inner steel sleeve just slipped into place, so when the suspension moves up and down the steel sleeve has sliding contact against the bushing. And to some degree, the bushing has sliding contact against the control arm mount. It causes squeaks and groans, plus the bushing wears out. It can become a major handling issue within relatively few miles.

BTW I used the Moog bushings in my Jeep.

That's some sound advice. I just didn't want to deal with the squeaks. And with the longer contol arms I have I could see how having the extra travel would squeak a lot!
 
Use an air chisel, and start making dents in the outer bushing sleeve like a bottlecap, much faster than the drill/torch and beat method
 
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