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gettin the rear to flex please help

gentry20

NAXJA Forum User
Location
dayton,oregon
i have an 88 xj that started as my dd but after a few dents and a couple wheelin problems i have since then bought a 94 for my dd so now its all out on the 88. i am only 19 and a very lol budget so its gonna be a long build i know what the front end is gonna be i just need help getting the rear to flex more. i plan on having about 7 inches of lift and 35-12.50 so any help would be nice thank you :helpme:
 
7 inches of lift is too much lift for 35s. what springs and shackles are you using?
 
Re: gettin the rear to flex please help
7 inches of lift is too much lift for 35s. what springs and shackles are you using?

why is 7" of lift too much for 35's?
 
It's not, but you can get away with a little less if you trim properly.


Limit the front to force the rear to flex? Get real.
 
u can go 3" and fit 38's with trim and b.s. seen it.

Got photos?

I want to use examples of that specific XJ for 'don't be this guy' purposes.
 
nah, my buddy did it, you'd have a blast with him, he cut the rear cargo to acsess the fuel pump... with a plasma cutter, and now he doesnt run swaybars. goes from dingmans fairy pa to jefferson nj everyday... wish i had pics... :/
 
ok, sarcastically, i think what he meant by restricting the front and loosening the rear, what you really need to do, is keep the lift you have, install front stock shocks to limit flex... then install the RE not so quick discos for 3.5 to 5.5 inches of lift on your rear swaybar. then you can drive around in reverse and flex like a pro...
 
you want your rig to look proportionate at the same time as productive, 3" with 38's is not. that would look goofy. why you would run 38's on a jeep anyway is overkill. save that for the older chevy and fords. 33, 35' are all you need, and more realistically 33's are the way to go. you also have to consider the weight per tire and the gear thats pushing your tires.
 
I believe there's a good thread on this subject on pirate. The gist of it is that the flattest possible leaves are going to give you the most flex. If your pack is uber arched, they're not going to do much flexing. As others have mentioned, the shackle relocation brackets along with longer shackles will also help.


Tapatalky
 
My RE packs/RC shackle flexed more then the stock bastard pack/1 inch lift shackle. With the relocation and the long shackle, you force the leaf to go flat as it hits the bump, making it softer.

I have had no issues with my longer 2.2 shocks designed for a JK. They make great bumpstops while I have 4 inches of lift and 31's
 
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Got photos?

I want to use examples of that specific XJ for 'don't be this guy' purposes.

not quite what you are looking for, but close.

6088_505044891094_226300669_111177_7143933_n.jpg


you want your rig to look proportionate at the same time as productive, 3" with 38's is not. that would look goofy. why you would run 38's on a jeep anyway is overkill. save that for the older chevy and fords. 33, 35' are all you need, and more realistically 33's are the way to go. you also have to consider the weight per tire and the gear thats pushing your tires.

I think low cog builds look badass. and they are very capable.
and how are 38's overkill? and 33's realistic for everyones application on an xj? Ever see a old chevy or ford on 35"+ tires on some technical rock trails? and actually be successful?

Jeeps are a good platform to build a capable rig on any terrain from. Theres reasons people opt for them over old heavy trucks.
 
maybe i will help out the original post too lol

reloaction brackets make a world of difference

search for em' many threads on here.

76542_509871313904_226300669_234052_2092583_n.jpg


I dont know the exact lift height on it. but it was about 3.5-4" with some craptastic leaf springs, 8" shocks, relocated shock mounts on the axle, reloaction brackets, 45* shackle angle and 1.5" shackles.
 
4.5/5ish on 38's i think it looks great, i see no need to ever be over 6" unless your running 42's
taning_013.jpg
 
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