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Replacing the Steering

Djmack

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Travis AFB
Im about to replace my steering before the end of the month..

ive been looking into over the knuckle, looked at rustys, and jcroffroad.. and figured jcr would be my better bet.. but the more and more i try to research it, the more scattered i find my self.. im seeing so many different problems from different users, may this be from install error?

What are the pro's and cons of OTK steering?
What all is involved in installing OTK? (fabrication? Drilling? new tracbar?)
 
there is lots of fab involved with a proper OTK set up. you would need a new TB mount welded to the top of the axle and figure a new swaybar link mount if you still wanted to use them. you would also need a new track bar.

a cheap easy and beefy steering setup is the V8 ZJ setup. i run this on my xj with 5" lift and 35" tires. it holds up extremely well even with a durrango box and wj pump.
 
I have the JCR OTK/OTA on my XJ and yes like Stewie said you really do need to be either all in or nothing at all when it comes to OTK steering kits like JCR's. This is because of the clearance issues involved with raising the steering that high. Not to say it isn't worth it or that it will put an end to your steering worries forever but that it requires a full commitment. So what needs to be done? Well you'll have to drill and ream both knuckles and your pitman arm to fit the 1 ton ends (yeah their huge) you'll need to cut off your stock trackbar, steering stabilizer and sway bar mounts on the axle and relocate them to clear the new rods (yeah their huge too) and trim the coil buckets a little as well. You'll also need to shorten your existing trac bar to the proper length for an OTA TB mount. So yeah that's pretty much it, I have found that you don't really need a steering stabilizer anymore after the install but I will say you do need get the alignment pretty close or you will (at least I did) get DW until you do. Another thing is the OTK system is a bit more sensitive to worn parts so replacing all your CA bushings (upper too) and checking your ball joints, unit bearings and overcenter adjustment on your steering box is a good idea if not results are mixed. OH and a note about reaming the knuckles I've found that if your careful and only ream them so you have about 1/4 to 1/2" showing between the knuckle and the rod end after you tighten the castle nuts the dead spot can be seriously reduced, I don't even use the plastic spacers anymore on mine (they don't last anyway) and I think it feels better than stock, a bit heavy feeling but solid for sure.
 
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There are 3 main objectives of upgrading the steering linkage. Getting stronger components so they don't bend, getting higher ground clearance so they don't get hit and bend, and getting better link angles with a lift so the joints don't bottom out (and wear prematurely and limit travel) and so the geometry is halfway decent. Going over the knuckle accomplishes all of these if stronger components are used.

If the drag link and tie rod are mounted over the knuckle, then a couple of things happen. The links interfere with the stock sway bar link mounts, and now the drag link and track bar aren't aligned so there can be bump steer. So, to do it right the sway bar links need to be raised, which is very easy using new link mounts which can come from Rusty's or JKS or Poly Performance or Parts Mike and others. And, the track bar axle mount needs to be raised to match the new OTK location of the drag link, which also can be done with brackets from those same places.

The Rusty's OTK kit is complete, it provides the sway bar link and track bar corrections. I don't particularly like that both the tie rod and drag link are mounted in single sheer above the knuckle (at least, that's how it looks), but this is very easy to fix. Since the track bar axle mount and sway bar links need to be welded on anyway, it's pretty simple to add a tab from the knuckle to the top of the two rod ends to make it double sheer, with a gusset from that tab to the steering arm. That would make a pretty good steering link system, a crossover design with good angles and good strength.

The JCR steering uses an inverted T design, which works fine if the drag link angle is very slight, but with much drag link angle (like on most lifted XJ's) then the drag link angle causes the tie rod to roll which crates a dead spot in the steering. JCR attempts to correct this by using a poly bushing under one of the tie rod ends, but this is a band aid on a potentially poor design, and could lead to that tie rod wearing out quicker than normal. Also, the tie rod end that they use on the pass side that allows the drag link to connect to it is prone to bending under hard use (seen it many times). The JCR stuff works, and there are undoubtedly people who are happily using it, but there are drawbacks to the design.

With a tab added to the Rusty's system to make it double sheer, I think it's a better design than the JCR. The drag link is higher and it is longer (better angles), it doesn't have that slightly weaker long tie rod end, and it won't have any kind of dead spot.

Depending on how much lift you have, the Currie under the knuckle system is pretty good. Much stronger components, the ends at the pitman arm and pass knuckle are bent to allow more movement before binding, and no modifications need to be made other than bolting up the Currie links. I'm currently running the Currie with 5" of lift. I've also built OTK crossovers like the Rusty's and built custom OTK inverted Y designs.
 
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hey richard, didnt you have some pictures of making the knuckle double sheer to mount both heims OTK?

I have old pics of my inverted Y steering on the D30, and pics of my old inverted T with high steer arms on the D44, but no pics of the double sheer tabs for a crossover on a D30. Pretty simple, I just made a tab long enough, drilled a hole for the bolt, bolted it up, bent the end down to meet the knuckle (adjusted the length accordingly), welded the end to the knuckle, cut a triangle piece for a gusset between the new tab and the knuckle, and welded that in. Simple, strong and effective, and allows for a good crossover OTK design.
 
Hey, check out this thread. I posted some pics up of my junk and why I went from Rustys in favor of Currie steering.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=942121&highlight=rustys,+currie+steering

The old Rusty's steering you're referring to is an inverted T, similar to the JCR. The Rusty's we're talking about is a crossover OTK design. Big difference. But, nothing wrong with the Currie unless you have a ton of lift, or you don't mind doing a little fabricating.
 
The old Rusty's steering you're referring to is an inverted T, similar to the JCR. The Rusty's we're talking about is a crossover OTK design. Big difference. But, nothing wrong with the Currie unless you have a ton of lift, or you don't mind doing a little fabricating.

Got ya, I looked at the Rustys OTK kit and that one I remember looked a lot better then that T set up I had. Rather then trying Rustys again I decided to go with Currie, I only run 4.5 inches of lift and dont plan on going over 6 in the future. I guess my point was neither here or there in reguard to this conversation. I will say I run almost Rustys everything on my Jeep and I love their products BUT MAN...that T steering was horrible.
 
well... ive been provided with all, or most of the information needed right now..
but of course, its going to end up costing more than expected.. when i get it.

im going to make sure all my tires are back at 35psi and do a full cross rotation putting my fresh walls out... the back tires should have nice flat tread, we'll see if this fixes my steer pull problem

thanks for the info and links.
 
Rugged Ridge (I think) has a decent steering setup, simlar to the CUrrie.
Otherwise, I believe a beefed up drag link and tie rod would do just fine. I upgraded to the ironman4x4fab tie rod and couldnt be happier. I know I will need to upgrade/swap the drag link soon as those TRE's are near their end. But since I am not a hard core rock crawler, i do not think I have to worry about it too much.
 
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