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1993 Cherokee (XJ) Country: Build by ArmyDad

ArmyDad

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Elk Grove, CA
As this is my 1st build thread ever, I spent some time looking at how others have successfully created and updated their project Jeep. One thing became immediately apparent and that is the need for LOTS of pics which I will start doing as soon as I can. As there is no place better to start than the beginning, I'll start with what was brought home on Day 1.

1993 Cherokee (XJ) Country. ~150K miles, relatively well maintained, and totally stock save for some REALLY ugly aluminum wheels and pretty decent 30x9.5/15 LT tires. The day my wife and I were to pick up the XJ the interior lights, radio and door locks stopped working all at once. The owner had checked all fuses and taken the door panel off to check wiring … no power. Must have been some major electrical issue. We knocked off some bucks, struck our deal and I was on my way.

Item 1 - I found it odd that 3 items would stop working at the same time so off to Kragen I went and picked up the basic repair manual from Chilton. As with my YJ from years ago, I knew there were fuses in 2 locations (interior and under the hood) so wanted to check them all. Sure enough, blown fuse under the hood! The PO did not know to check there apparently. Replaced fuse and all worked again.

Item 2 - Rear tires rubbed every time I had passengers in the back seat and rolled over any kind of dip in the freeway. As the owner had also thrown in the OEM aluminum wheels, the second order of business was to get the good tires off those awful wheels and mounted/balanced on the OEM wheels. Looked better and the rubbing went away (less wheel BS as it turned out).

Now came the time to get all the REALLY worn stuff taken care of. Remember when I said it was reasonably well maintained? Well, fluids and lubrication had been done and the vehicle kept clean. That was the maintenance. I was amazed at the number of factory OEM parts still in use … shocks, fuel filter, axle oil (I think). So, time to get all that taken care of so I can see what is really needed to get things "off road ready". The list is as you'd expect for a 17 year old vehicle with 150K miles. Spring sag was not significant (17.5 F; 16.25 R) but budget was tight so I opted to replace bushings, etc. and see if the normal ride height came back. So, here's what was done:

(1) Rebuilt the front suspension: upper and lower control arms, front wheel bearings (1 was loose so both were replaced), and upper and lower ball joints on both sides (1 upper was loose on 1 side so all 4). Did not replace coil springs at this time.
(2) Temporarily removed front sway bar just to make crawling around easier.
(3) Rebuilt rear suspension. Replaced all bushings but left springs alone.
(4) Off came the rear sway bar (forever!).
(5) New KYB shocks front and rear.
(6) Recovery points front and rear: Draw-Tite w/ "D" ring.
(7) Took apart and cleaned up all battery connections and terminals. Sealed with "liquid tape". No more crud!

WOW, what an improvement! No more wandering around the road, quiet over speed bumps and no more clunking. My ride height had not changed much (17.5 F; 16.50 R) so I knew springs were in my future at some point. Still some vibrations and rattling at speed but drove that way for about 6 months.

In November, around Thanksgiving, I had to make a trip to Portland, OR (~600 miles north) to see my folks before my mom went in for open heart surgery. Surgery went well (thank GOD!) and we returned home. During the trip up and back however, some other issues made themselves apparent. The familiar "squeak, squeak, squeak" that rises and falls with speed told me the U-joints were not happy. There was also an incredible CLUNK which shook the vehicle one morning when I started it. Hmmm … started again and it did not clunk but now I had a nasty vibration that wasn't there before. Well, 600 miles from home and 18*F (yes it gets THAT cold in Portland), there was no time to spend messing with it there so the trip home was made.

Once back in Elk Grove, the Jeep went off to my friends at Elk Grove Muffler and Transmission where we found out a few things:

(1) 1 motor mount was broken clean (remember the incredible CLUNK?), 1 was hanging on and the transmission mount was not too far behind (replaced all).
(2) Innards of the catalytic converter were loose. Take your fist and hit the bottom and you could hear it clunk (replaced it with low flow unit and MagnaFlow muffler).
(3) U-joints were so wobbled out that the yokes were egg-shaped (new yokes, new U-joints and balance driveshafts).

WOW, again what an improvement. Smoother starting and a LOT less vibration. Took it out onto the freeway and it was so smooth and quiet (even with the MagnaFlow). For the last few months I'd been blaming noise, vibration and wandering on the tires and found out they are fine … it was the driveline all along!

Then came the fun stuff …

(1) Airaid intake (however, after reading some of the REALLY bad things about gauze/oil type filters I am putting the factory air box back on).
(2) PowerAid Throttle body.

Without going into all the details, made another fast trip to Oregon after all this and picked up 1.5mpg (up to 19mpg average on highway) not too mention how much smoother and quieter it all was.

Well, that brings me to where I am with the XJ at present. Next entry will be for Phase 1 of the upgrades.

Oh, and I'll post some pics as soon as I get some uploaded.
=====
 
1993 Cherokee (XJ) Country: Build by ArmyDad (PHASE 1)

PHASE 1

"Just purchased" and other items in my garage for the 1st step of the build:

New coil Springs (1" lift) for front (Quadratec).
New leaf Springs (1" lift) for rear (Quadratec)
Bar Pin Eliminators for front and rear (TeraFlex).
1" Wheel Spacers (5 Lug 4.5" To 5 Lug 4.5").
Front license plate holder (fits in front receiver).
Stock intake breather.
Replacement wiper motor.

As my XJ is also called upon frequently to be the 2nd car, there will be no LONG periods of teardown/assembly. It's all going to be done a day, weekend or week at a time. Yes, I'll take a week's vacation to work on my Jeep … doesn't everyone?

FRONT --
Bring overall front lift to ~3.25" over stock by using HD coil spring (1"), 1.75" poly spacer and a second .50" stock isolator.
Fab new front bump stops (hockey pucks?) to work with stock bump stop after determining upper limit of shocks and suspension.
Fabricate 1/4" caster shim.
Replace pitman arm to correct for lift (MJ = 1" drop).
Evaluate and reposition track bar (weld existing location then re-drill).
Fabricate shock extensions (existing KYB shocks are new … want to keep if possible).
Extend brake lines.

REAR ---
Bring overall rear lift to ~3.25" over stock by using HD leaf spring (1") top leaf of existing rear spring (2.25") added below new main leaf.
Fabricate new spring plate with area for bump stop (hockey puck?).
Fabricate shock extensions (existing KYB shocks are new … want to keep if possible).
Extend brake lines.

DRIVETRAIN ---
Slip Yoke Eliminator (Iron Rock Offroad)

MISCELLANEOUS ---
Windshield wiper motor
Stock intake breather: silencer removal and reinstall.
License plate holder install.

There will be a lot of parts gathering and some fabrication necessary ahead of time … caster shim, front and rear bump stops, shock extensions and spring plates … to complete the suspension lift including SYE installation which should be a weekend project. As it was all apart less than 6 months ago, there should be no issues with frozen bolts and the like. The rest should be a day here and there. Time frame for completion is the end of February.

As I start acquiring and fabricating, I'll update this build with links, diagrams and pictures of what's taking place and how it looks.
 
Ya know, I've had my 93 Country for about 5 years. When I first acquired it I drove it everyday. Not long after I started building it. Today it's pretty much a trail rig only. 35s, 6" lift... I want to go thru it like you did yours and try to make it as road worth as possible. I'm interested in seeing pictures. Good luck with your build!
 
Will have pics up shortly as I go through some of the mods as opposed to the maintenance. Already roped my wife into coming out and being my photog periodically.

I just wanted to get the rig back to "factory trim" before I started modding so I could see what I was starting with ... and to make it as comfortable as possible for on-road travel.
 
REVISED: Well as these things tend to do, my build has taken a rather sharp turn before it really got started.

Met up with a couple of locals who, along with some other folks in the area, do a lot of off-road travels. He has a tremendous amount of off-road experience and she likes to go as well (when she isn't wheeling herself) . So, after many margaritas at a local watering hole, I have a new build for the Cherokee. Honestly, couldn't be much farther from what I THOUGHT I wanted in the first place but at least there won't be a large amount of money spent twice.

Bottom line … If I want to spend time with this group, I'll need 5" of lift and 35" tires. OK by me as one of the big reasons Ronie and I are getting involved in this activity is to meet and get to know new folks while doing some "social networking". So here's the new plan in order of how things are going to get done (translation: gets done as money becomes available).

1 - 5" lift comprised of 4.5" Rough Country coil springs and isolators, steering stabilizer, QDs and CADBs in front and homebuilt spring-pack in the rear.
2 - IRO slip yoke eliminator.
3 - RC series 8000 shocks front and rear with BPEs.
4 - Homebuilt steering box brace.
5 - Homebuilt armor and sliders.

In preparation for larger tires and more time crawling:
6 - PS upgrade.
7 - Brakes upgrade.
8 - Hood vents and CAI.
9 - PS, engine oil and AT coolers.
10 - Replace engine mounted viscous fan with 2nd electric.
11 - Re-gear (4.56 or 4.88) then mount up the 35s.

As the re-gearing and tires are last (biggest $$$), I'll spend the first part of the year on a 5" lift with SYE and 30" tires. Probably look a little goofy but that's the way we'll need to play before we pay for the last part of this project.

I also want fabricate, build, assemble and cobble together as much as possible because that is what it's all about, right? So, it may take a few months (a year?) to complete all this. There will obviously be some additional odds and ends to make all this happen but these are the big parts, I believe.

And the last couple of days were sunny so I got some "before" pics posted on my website so you can see what the Cherokee looks like before the real work begins.

You can see them at: http://gallery.me.com/tdove#100094

Again, thanks for all the input.
=====
 
Man, I was really looking forward to seeing a good drivable build. I just got a new Cherokee last night and I plan to put 2-3" lift on it and run 30s. I don't want to have to regear this one.

Do you plan to do anything to the 30 to prepare for the 35s? Chromo shafts?

Honestly, I haven't been able to drive my Cherokee on the road comfortably since I mounted 35 and went above 5" of lift. If this is a DD then, personally, I wouldn't go that big. On the other hand I've seen plenty people with that much lift and they drive them everyday... I guess it's just personal preference.

Good luck with which ever way you go.
 
ah a guy in my dads office has a 93 country... white. silver chrome. same as yours! He can definitely afford something a little more modern, but he loves the thing! He original bought it from his neighbor for his daughter to drive.

I always ask my dad if he wants to sell it, SOOO CLEAN!
 
Man, I was really looking forward to seeing a good drivable build. I just got a new Cherokee last night and I plan to put 2-3" lift on it and run 30s. I don't want to have to regear this one.

Do you plan to do anything to the 30 to prepare for the 35s? Chromo shafts?

Honestly, I haven't been able to drive my Cherokee on the road comfortably since I mounted 35 and went above 5" of lift. If this is a DD then, personally, I wouldn't go that big. On the other hand I've seen plenty people with that much lift and they drive them everyday... I guess it's just personal preference.

Good luck with which ever way you go.
lowrange2: I definitely want to keep it driveable and a good fit for the street as well as trail. The springing in the rear will be a home-built pack of nothing but XJ leaves. Starting with a new UpCountry pack (4 leaves), I'll add the top 3 leaves from the existing pack (less eyelets on the main).

After reading a post from GottaBeJeep on his budget build, adding additional leaves with similar spring rates will add lift without making the ride more harsh and less responsive. The front springs should still be as compliant as the original as the spring rate of the RC coils is only 10lbs greater than the OEM spring.

I really tried to do a lot of research before "pulling the trigger" as I did not want to go from a capable off-road vehicle to a lumber truck in the search for greater capability. That said, I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
 
ah a guy in my dads office has a 93 country... white. silver chrome. same as yours! He can definitely afford something a little more modern, but he loves the thing! He original bought it from his neighbor for his daughter to drive.

I always ask my dad if he wants to sell it, SOOO CLEAN!
austinaubinoe: I really looked before finding this rig. It had ~150K miles when we picked it up last year. The original owner was a real estate agent in the Sierras so the miles were not hard and mostly highway with some light off-road to see property, etc. I doubt it had really been in low range all that often.

Needs a good shampoo on the seats and carpeting and the roof liner replaced but, other than that, is top notch. Oh, and it needs paint on the bumpers, grill and all the flares but we'll see how it all looks when it gets ready for final assembly as I do plan on keeping the original colors.
 
Already been another change ... a friend came across a set of 5 Dick Cepek DC-1 wheels with Mud Dawg 33x12.50/15 tires mounted on 4 of them. The tires have about 50% tread. Both wheels and tires look like most of their lives have been spent on-road and look perfect. The whole lot for $450. I'm picking them up tomorrow.

As I was told earlier today, "eBay is your friend".
 
Already been another change ... a friend came across a set of 5 Dick Cepek DC-1 wheels with Mud Dawg 33x12.50/15 tires mounted on 4 of them. The tires have about 50% tread. Both wheels and tires look like most of their lives have been spent on-road and look perfect. The whole lot for $450. I'm picking them up tomorrow.

As I was told earlier today, "eBay is your friend".

lol, It is. Ebay is where MOST of my stuff came from.
 
Man, I was really looking forward to seeing a good drivable build. I just got a new Cherokee last night and I plan to put 2-3" lift on it and run 30s. I don't want to have to regear this one.

Do you plan to do anything to the 30 to prepare for the 35s? Chromo shafts?

Honestly, I haven't been able to drive my Cherokee on the road comfortably since I mounted 35 and went above 5" of lift. If this is a DD then, personally, I wouldn't go that big. On the other hand I've seen plenty people with that much lift and they drive them everyday... I guess it's just personal preference.

Good luck with which ever way you go.
There are a decent amount of people that run 5-6"+ of lift with 35's and D just fine (SharkXJ from San Jose is a good example). RobertK has a great deal on D30 front CV shafts.
I run about 3" lift, will be going with no larger than 30s when I get new tires. Will do what I want it to. May go to 4.10s if I can find a 4 cyl donor.

REVISED: Well as these things tend to do, my build has taken a rather sharp turn before it really got started.

Met up with a couple of locals who, along with some other folks in the area, do a lot of off-road travels. He has a tremendous amount of off-road experience and she likes to go as well (when she isn't wheeling herself) . So, after many margaritas at a local watering hole, I have a new build for the Cherokee. Honestly, couldn't be much farther from what I THOUGHT I wanted in the first place but at least there won't be a large amount of money spent twice.

Bottom line … If I want to spend time with this group, I'll need 5" of lift and 35" tires. OK by me as one of the big reasons Ronie and I are getting involved in this activity is to meet and get to know new folks while doing some "social networking". So here's the new plan in order of how things are going to get done (translation: gets done as money becomes available).

1 - 5" lift comprised of 4.5" Rough Country coil springs and isolators, steering stabilizer, QDs and CADBs in front and homebuilt spring-pack in the rear.
2 - IRO slip yoke eliminator.
3 - RC series 8000 shocks front and rear with BPEs.
4 - Homebuilt steering box brace.
5 - Homebuilt armor and sliders.

In preparation for larger tires and more time crawling:
6 - PS upgrade.
7 - Brakes upgrade.
8 - Hood vents and CAI.
9 - PS, engine oil and AT coolers.
10 - Replace engine mounted viscous fan with 2nd electric.
11 - Re-gear (4.56 or 4.88) then mount up the 35s.

As the re-gearing and tires are last (biggest $$$), I'll spend the first part of the year on a 5" lift with SYE and 30" tires. Probably look a little goofy but that's the way we'll need to play before we pay for the last part of this project.

I also want fabricate, build, assemble and cobble together as much as possible because that is what it's all about, right? So, it may take a few months (a year?) to complete all this. There will obviously be some additional odds and ends to make all this happen but these are the big parts, I believe.

And the last couple of days were sunny so I got some "before" pics posted on my website so you can see what the Cherokee looks like before the real work begins.

You can see them at: http://gallery.me.com/tdove#100094

Again, thanks for all the input.
=====
With 4"+ lift I recommend adjustable long arms/3-link or mid arms vs DB's
IF you are going to use RC hydros you will not need BPE's they make them for different lengths with stock mounting. Talk to Grimus. They have long arm kits, brake lines etc. Otherwise you can buy ext brake liines from the parts store.
For cooler air a custom setup with cowl tube.
Since its not going to be a dd 4.88s would be good.
 
Johnnie Walker: You know, had I not been so excited and pulled the trigger I could have purchased the shocks that way ... what was I thinking? Ahh, well, it's all good as I had the BPEs already.

The DBs are just to keep the initial costs down so I can get out and wheeling with some new-found friends. Kind of a strict budget at this stage but certain thing MUST get done before I can even consider going off-road with these guys (lift, gearing, tires).

Downstream, I'd like to take a crack at building my own adjustable LA or MA. With those lower gears, I'm thinking a neat project might be a ladder bar to control spring wrap. Ahh, a project for later!
 
lowrange2: I definitely want to keep it driveable and a good fit for the street as well as trail. The springing in the rear will be a home-built pack of nothing but XJ leaves. Starting with a new UpCountry pack (4 leaves), I'll add the top 3 leaves from the existing pack (less eyelets on the main).

After reading a post from GottaBeJeep on his budget build, adding additional leaves with similar spring rates will add lift without making the ride more harsh and less responsive. The front springs should still be as compliant as the original as the spring rate of the RC coils is only 10lbs greater than the OEM spring.

I really tried to do a lot of research before "pulling the trigger" as I did not want to go from a capable off-road vehicle to a lumber truck in the search for greater capability. That said, I'll let everyone know how it turns out.


Agreed on this, sir. As long as you do your homework, I don't see why a capable rig on 33's -35's and a rig with a quality on-road ride have to be mutually exclusive.

If you think systemically and think through each modification, you'll be good to go.

I think you're off to a good start.
 
Well, the first phase of the my Cherokee build is about to begin. There are a lot of new parts in my garage:

RC 4.5" coil springs
RC control arm drop kit
4 new front coil spacers
new track bar bushings and bolt
RC steering dampener
RC sway bar disconnect
RC series 8000 shocks, front and rear
TeraFlex bar pin eliminators
Crown HD rear leaf spring (1+" lift)
IRO slip yoke eliminator w/ driveshaft

The work starts tomorrow (Sunday) early. By the end of the week I hope to be telling everyone about a 5" lift front and rear (4.5" coil plus 2nd stock isolator and rear springpack made from top 3 leaves of existing rear leaf springs), a relocated track bar, relocated brake lines and the installation of the SYE and DS.

Daily updates with pictures. Until tomorrow night ...
 
Let me first apologize for not having any pictures to show of today's work. Steve and I got started this morning and didn't really take any breaks. Got the Cherokee up on jack stands and wheels pulled off then took a look at what we wanted to attack to start things off … we decided on the front.

So, at the end of the day here's what we had accomplished:

1 - Removed shocks and front coil springs.
2 - Disconnected brake line brackets.
3 - Disconnected track bar at axle.
4 - Installed the control arm drop brackets.
5 - Got ahold of a spring compressor to get the 4.5" coil springs installed along with with a 2nd factory isolator.
6 - Everything is all bolted up and ready to be torqued tomorrow night.

Tuesday, on to the rear suspension.

Oh, and Ronie did take a couple of pics of Steve and I working so there is proof we did the work ourselves.
 
lowrange2: The spring rates are fairly close to stock and went with a better steering stabilizer. I'm going to see how it all turns out to see if anything else needs to happen.
 
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