BIG D35 axle question!

No, this isn't about a big axle....it's a big question that probably needs a several-part answer!
I have a 2000 XJ, AW4, 242, D35 & D30 axles w/3.55 ratio, 3" OME lift, 31 x 10.5 x 15" tires, factory skids, and better breathing. She is a DD and (may) see some occasional mild to moderate off-roading in the future.
Now, the fun part! I'm anticipating the purchase of a SYE and may need to delay that if I'm going to change axles,...since that may require a new driveshaft (change of lenght?).
Why do I need to change axles? Everything I read about the D35 makes me think twice about putting money (gears and posi) into this POS! I don't have any intentions of going bigger than 31" tires OR >4.10 gears. Maybe the D35 will suffice? Maybe I can truss it and swap in Super 35 kit? Now I've spent the same as if I went D44.
I also like the 4 wheel antilock brakes (remember...DD), would going to a D44 or 8.25 cause me to lose the use of the antilock feature?
I drive 99.9% on-road and 10% of my DD miles are on bumpy dirt roads. I don't really NEED anything more than a STOCK XJ for most of my daily escapades. But if I'm going to build it, I want to build it right (the first time), since I don't have the time or money to re-do these things.
Q) If i went from a D35 to 8.25 or D44 would I need a new DS because of changing dimensions?
Q) For my light pedal usage and infrequent off-roading, should I go ahead and keep the D35 OR go for door #2. CAUTION,....I may tow <3000# upon occasion in the future!

Any constructive input would be appreciated,

BLUTO

A d35 would probably be okay for a dd and 31x10.50s. However if you want a killer yet cheap axle swap, go with a Ford 8.8 out of the 95 and up Exploder. Claims are, they are stronger than a D44, 120 percent stronger than a D35 and have disks. Some come with limited slips and some have 4.10s or both! Track width is only about 1.25 narrower and has the same lug pattern. A good one can be found easily for $500 to $550 since they made a ton of them. They have fat axle tubes and the hardest part of the swap is moving the spring perches. Granted, I have not done the swap yet, but I've gathered enough info that when I do the swap in Feb. it'll go smoothly. As you can see, it's a no brainer and only a diehard Dana fan would disagree.

The 35 is plenty for what you do. You didn't mention anything about lockers. If you had alock I'd be a little more concerned but not much more. A good frend has ben runing 32s and 33 on a 35c and at time shee can be hard on it but shes a good driver and make some hard parts of te trails look like a damn paved road(trails rate at 6,7 and 8 at big dogs for those that know) but you should be fine. If you plan on using your Xj as a pack mule trussing wouldn't be a bad idea infact they sell a blot on one that looks cool as heck of just amke your own.Then if you ever break a shaft you can get stromger replacement shafts that er pretty strong. but with 31 and no foot to the floor driving on harder trails it should be fine.

Please save your money and quit worrying about axles.

For the driving techniques and places you mentioned, the D35 should be just fine.
If you already have a Limited Slip, great, if not, and you find yourself getting stuck quite often, you may want to spend a few hundred on a traction aiding device of choice.


This board (and some other Jeep related boards) tends to be a mix of two groups. The very experienced group do the hardcore rock crawling, etc. They are experienced fabricators, and seem to have pretty deep pockets. They are the trend setters.

Everyone else seems to be a groupie....Don't get me wrong, there are some pretty experienced people out there, but they still follow the trends.

Stick with what you have and run it till it breaks. If your wallet can handle it , upgrade everything that breaks.

Flame Suit On

John

PS I've been running a EZ Locked 35 with 32's on moderate trails/ rocks for 2 years w/ no problems. Ran 31's the 5 years prior to that.

FYI, I ran a d35 non-c, lock-rite with 33 TSL with out a problem (I also have a light foot)

I have ran a D35C for 3 years with at least 5 trips to Moab in there and also a Rubicon run (with a locker) and have never broke it. I run 32"s for tires. I still want to upgrade it, but so far it's been good to me. For what you will do, I say carry spare shafts and call it good.

Thanks for your words of encouragement :angel: Nobody wants to think they are driving around on some "timebomb"!
I will probably keep the D35, for now. I have a friend at JEEP division who may have some spare axles layin around (then again....that's wishful thinking ).....if so I'll see what he wants for one and go from there. Otherwise, I don't have time to go combing thru the "boneyards" for axles.
Does anyone have any pics of what axle trusses look like OR a link to some place that sells them? I could probably weld one up in my garage.... if I knew what I was making
I will start looking for some used gears and rr posi unit,

BLUTO

I am going to make one for mine in the next week or so (before Fall Fling trip). If you can weld it on, it would be cake for me to bend another one up once I have mine made.. I have a D35 in my garage so it is easy to use as a template. Just email me at [email protected] if interested.. BTW, this will be an over the top truss to reduce flex and possible turning of the tubes. Just trying to keep my D35 alive as long as I can.....

As far as trusses go, I know PorchPuppy has one on his D35, Before I found my D44, this was going to be my plan.

First take a piece of plate, 1/4" thick, cut the shape of the top of the D35 diff cover, drill holes so that you can attqache the diff cover and the plate on top. Then take a piece of 2x2x.120 tube, weld or bolt the plate to a piece of sq tube, 36". then cut an angle on the tubing, weld two more pieces of tubing each from the ends to the axle tube.

With this you can still get your cover off, you don't have to weld to the pumpkin, and there are no clearance ground issues. The only thing you'lll have to contend with would be the brake lines.

The last thing I would add is mounts for a traction bar, since your welding to the axle already.

Yeah, with my ABS I have some added lines in there to work with... That plan is about exactly what I am making only I will use round tube and bend it to the shape and weld it to the diff plate. Definitely don't want to weld to the cast iron housing unless you really know what you are doing.

I bought my 8.8 last year for 100 bucks out of a local junkyard. Complete. I didn't need the actual axle, just the disc brake brackets and calipers. They are out there for cheap if you look for them.

Here ya go if you don't have the time or ability to make your own truss her a great option for not a bad price. Yea its for a yj but it should work with no problem.
http://www.jeepline.com/store/itemdetail.asp?ID=4699444

That's your idea of "Not a bad price"?

I know this is a quality piece and to someone it may be worth that kind of money, but as Bluto already noted, by the time you buy this and a quality locker, you've spent as much as buying a Dana 44.

There are other trusses available for less money. Not as beefy as this one, but a lot more affordable.

That truss doesn't look too hard to build, and you can remove it too! I would like to look at other designs that are out there, if anyone knows of some. Amazing what you can do with a little channel iron !
BLUTO