Mine is acting funky and I need a new one. The dealer wants $190, I can get it from moparpartsamerica.com for $110 plus shipping (but this weekend its warm and I'd like to do it now) or I can get it from NAPA for $85. Is this one of those parts to get from Mopar or can I get away with a NAPA part? Please don't tell me to clean up the old one and throw it back in. :rattle:
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IAC question
- Thread starter yardape
- Start date
birchlakeXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Melrose, MN
I have heard of pretty good luck with NAPA idle air control
Sorry but gotta ask. Have you "tried" cleaning it? Oftentimes a bit of carbon can be the root cause of a problem. Sure, if the motor itself is faulty, cleaning won't help, but I've fixed more than a few of them this way.
No matter if you clean or replace, this is the time to clean your throttle body.
Sorry but gotta ask. Have you "tried" cleaning it? Oftentimes a bit of carbon can be the root cause of a problem. Sure, if the motor itself is faulty, cleaning won't help, but I've fixed more than a few of them this way.
No matter if you clean or replace, this is the time to clean your throttle body.
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
I've had good luck with the NAPA IAC motor on my '94 (it's a 4cyl, but same poop) so I'd feel comfortable saying get one. It's good to have a spare for the future, so if the pintle on the old one isn't too worn, I'd say clean her up and have it just in case.
X2 on "clean out the throttle body while you're in there-- at least the seat and port that the pintle operates in.
X2 on "clean out the throttle body while you're in there-- at least the seat and port that the pintle operates in.
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
I've used the Standard Motor Product IAC for my Renix 4.0L with success as well-- FYI, the BWD unit from your local Advance is the "T" line from Standard Motor Products and their "better" version is the "better" S.M.P. product the last time I checked.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
I understand simply wanting to swap it out but the vast majority of problems I have seen are related to getting the throttle body cavity where the IAC attaches clean. The pintle on the IAC acts like an air valve by extending and retracting, varying the opening size of the hole in the throttle body. That hole gets clogged with carbon and crap. Replacing the IAC with a new one does nothing for the problem. Even if you get a new IAC you need to spray the cavity and take some Qtips and swab the mating surface inside until it it clean. An old tooth brush and carb cleaner will clean up the pintle as well. It should take only a couple of minutes.
I recommend you pull the old one, quickly clean everything and then put the two screws back in and try it. If it doesn't work, replacing the old with the new is then a two minute task. I hate to see you waste the money for a quick cleaning that you need to do anyway.
As far as I know this is incorrect information.
I have had nothing but issues with BWD units of all sorts. I had a a TPS from BWD that was DOA, replaced it with a unit that lasted about 4 hours. I returned it and got another. When it came time to replace them in my other XJ I got the Standard T-series. The Standard units are definitely different construction. The parting lines from the molds are in different locations and the back of the TPS is one section rather than two. As further proof they are different, unless things have changed in the last few months, the Standard T-series TPS (as well as the MAP) is made in the USA, the BWD units are made in Taiwan/China. The Standard T-series IAC is made in Mexico.
Standard T-series:
BWD:
(Edit: I was incorrect it appears everything is just re-boxed)
Last edited:
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
crappy photographer (me) but if it's visible:
-identical labels
-varying locations of manufacturing
-and apparently, Standard and BWD share a warehouse/office on Long Island
with manufacturers buying and re-buying merchandise these days, it's hard to guess what's actually in ANY box you buy, but the general understanding that not every distributor makes every part they sell and that a lot of "back channel" buying goes on between them should be reasonable.
P.S. both of these items pictured were from the "cheaper" line of BWD, so North American quality cannot be ruled out based on which line either.
P.P.S. no, I don't have anything to gain by recommending BWD, I just found it odd that they (as well as G.P. Sorensen) were sharing office space
eace:Interesting. It appears you are the one that is correct.[pic removed]
crappy photographer (me) but if it's visible:
-identical labels
-varying locations of manufacturing
-and apparently, Standard and BWD share a warehouse/office on Long Island
with manufacturers buying and re-buying merchandise these days, it's hard to guess what's actually in ANY box you buy, but the general understanding that not every distributor makes every part they sell and that a lot of "back channel" buying goes on between them should be reasonable.
P.S. both of these items pictured were from the "cheaper" line of BWD, so North American quality cannot be ruled out based on which line either.
P.P.S. no, I don't have anything to gain by recommending BWD, I just found it odd that they (as well as G.P. Sorensen) were sharing office space
It does seem that everyone is buying parts from different places and seems like they use various manufactures and locations and rebox them.
The sensors I had from Asian manufacturing were purchased about a year ago. The USA/Mexican made ones purchased about a month ago.
Thanks for pointing it out, I did not think to check their office locations.
heyhar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA (near Poconos)
I just went through having funky idle and random unintended acceleration with my '96 AFTER installing a new TPS (Standard, better one), and a new IAC (Standard, better series) from Rock Auto. Good price, quick delivery. But, after two weeks of not wanting to start, 2k idle, racing, then stalling at a stop, it finally threw a code. TPS! All the symptoms of faulty/clogged IAC, and it was the brand new TPS! I went to the JY and got an assortment -'91 to '97 is the same part number, but '97 has the newer plug. I installed a low mile '94, disconnected the battery to re-boot the computer, and now it runs fine. The only mistake I made was to throw out the Standard box from Rock Auto, so I don't know if they'll accept the return. I was warned by a few others on this board to use original parts like this, and now I've proven it to myself.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
In my experience the IAC seldom FAILS. Cleaning the TB and IAC and its pintle usually resolves any issues.
The IAC, however, can become "lazy" with age and no amount of cleaning will correct that.
That is when I head for the salvage yard and grab two or three--I've always come home with a working IAC for a whole lot less money.
The IAC, however, can become "lazy" with age and no amount of cleaning will correct that.
That is when I head for the salvage yard and grab two or three--I've always come home with a working IAC for a whole lot less money.
heyhar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA (near Poconos)
It looked like the Batcave before cleaning
Wow,... I never imagined getting this much discussion! Thanks for all the responses. IAC is replaced with a new one. I don't have junkyards within close driving. The problem wasn't bad or rough idle. It was no idle. It was hanging up or getting stuck. I'd start the car in the morning and it worked fine. If I drove it however and turned the Jeep off momentarily like waiting for my kid to come out of his mom's house, when I cranked it back up the jeep would die as soon as I let off the gas. It would take another 5 minutes of playing with it before it would free up. The NAPA part was $65 plus carb cleaner.
Again thanks for all the responses. I learned a lot and have kept the old IAC just in case.
Again thanks for all the responses. I learned a lot and have kept the old IAC just in case.
birchlakeXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Melrose, MN
So, can we assume that the new IAC fixed all your symptoms?
I don't know yet. The vehicle starts and runs smoother more than likely due to removing all the gunk build up. I have not had the circumstance happen yet where I've turned the vehicle off and on within 2 minutes or so after its heated up but will do so today. Thanks for asking.
I don't know yet. The vehicle starts and runs smoother more than likely due to removing all the gunk build up. I have not had the circumstance happen yet where I've turned the vehicle off and on within 2 minutes or so after its heated up but will do so today. Thanks for asking and Happy New Year!
iwannadie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, Az
Usually when I am attempting to fix something and I replace what I hope is the problem I go right out and try to duplicate the problem. I like instant gratification if I can get it.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
On my 96(OBD2), I'm running the Holley Pro-jection IAC from AutoZone, I paid $30 for it.
