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Header Question

Jester99

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chattanooga, Tn
Wow it's been a long time since I've been here...It's time for a new header...again. I wanted to find out some things first before I drop the money on a Banks Header.

Back in the summer I replaced the cracked stock header with the APN unit everyone recommended here. It cracked in the exact same place as the stock header...at the collector, which leads me to believe I may have some other kind of issue, possibly with the downpipe. I remember reading here about needing to install some flex pipe or something on the downpipe to keep the header from bending and cracking, but I'm not exactly sure what that means or involves.

I definitely want to get this fixed very soon and I'm willing to drop the $$$ on a decent product like the Banks header. I believe it has a lifetime warranty...
 
I'm replacing my stock exhaust manifold with a Rugged Ridge header (ceramic coated) today. My stock manifold cracked at the collector from cyls 1-3. I'm suspicious of my engine mounts causing the trouble, so I'm replacing those at the same time. Flex pipe would be the next step if I keep having issues...
 
The root of your problem is likely worn out motor mounts. This lets the engine torque around and yank on the exhaust . With that in mind, a flex pipe somewhere between the downpipe and the catalytic converter would help relieve some stress and I don't see a downside to that. However, I would check your mounts and fix the real problem before you waste time trying to cover it up with a flex pipe.
 
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Thanks for the help so far guys! Any recommendations on motor mounts? This is mainly an on road driver so I don't need anything like the M.O.R.E bombproof motor mounts...
 
The root of your problem is likely worn out motor mounts. This lets the engine torque around and yank on the exhaust . With that in mind, a flex pipe somewhere between the downpipe and the catalytic converter would help relieve some stress and I don't see a downside to that. However, I would check your mounts and fix the real problem before you waste time trying to cover it up with a flex pipe.

Jeremiah has it pegged.

Brown Dog mounts, natural rubber or poly if you don't mind vibes.

Don't forget you likely need to replace the tranny mount too.

Sample flex tube: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=FLEXPIPE-250x8

Cut a section out of the downpipe where it crosses from left to right, before the CAT, weld in the flex tube.
 
All the stock style motor mounts fail eventually due to the poor, loose triangle design. Get the mores or browndogs, or it'll happen again down the road. Make sure the x-member mount is good, make sure the front tail pipe hanger is good, make sure the rear tail pipe hanger is good: old cracked rubber allows the whole system to move too easy(those mounts are cheap).
 
Here's what my drivers side mount looks like:

LH_A.jpg


LH_B.jpg
 
I just had Teraflex Plus warranty my Banks. (yes, the welds failed at the collector) This will be my second Banks. The first lasted for 7 years. I've replaced my motor mounts and the tail pipe hangers, of which the rubber was all rotted away. However, my rings are going and this contributes to engine vibrations that would not normally be there. I suspect that in another 5-7 years I'll have to warranty the header again, unless I get the rings done sooner. Spend the money and get a quality product! (the flex pipe at the crossover is a great idea!)
 
I went with the Brown Dog Poly's and love them. Glad I didn't go rubber. If you engine mounts look that bad, you probably should think about the transmission mount at the same time.
 
Make sure the front tail pipe hanger is good, make sure the rear tail pipe hanger is good: old cracked rubber allows the whole system to move too easy(those mounts are cheap).

X2 on the hangars. We've found these hangars are often overlooked. In addition to the motor mounts and transmission mount; be sure to check your U-Joints. On the Jeep 4.0L, flex in the pipes will be a big help, too. According to several header company warranty managers, the following are common reasons for cracked headers:

- Exhaust mounts broken/cracked or missing.
- U-joints.
- Motor mounts including transmission mount.

Think fore and aft of the header, starting at the header....

Thanks to everyone for the votes of confidence. We appreciate it. However, changing out motor mounts won't solve everything. Sometimes changing the motor mounts merely makes other problems a bit more obvious.

To OP: Here's hoping this helps.
 
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