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idle at 3000rpm

andrewf844

NAXJA Forum User
the problem is on a 1999, 4.0, automatic. i just replaced the exhuast manifold and cleaned the throttle body. after that on first start up it idles at 3000rpm. i figured i could have damaged the IAC so i replaced that but still idles high. is there a way to test the TPS and c if its that? im stationed in germany and it takes forever during the holidays to get parts so i want to make sure what i order will actually fix it. thanks
 
vacuum leak. probably at the intake/exhaust manifold gasket.
 
I agree that a vacuum leak is highly suspect here.

If that checks out, here is some info. on the throttle position sensor that might be helpful.

Good luck!

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The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

 Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
 High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
 Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
 Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
 Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
 
I will disagree with my learned colleagues, not a vacuum leak but a major intake leak.

It is likely you did not get the intake correctly seated on the locator pins and it is not sealing.

If I am right, you will have to loosen all of the intake/exhaust hardware and re-seat the intake manifold.
 
okay so started it up and listened for a leak i didnt hear anything obviously leaking and engines revving too high to hear any small leaks... i tested out the TPS and these were my results out of the 3 wires the one on the drivers side was the constant at 5.24VDC and the middle wire was the one that varied at idle it was .915VDC and at WOT 4.02VDC... so from that, if im understanding the info posted above my TPS is bad... its reading too high at idle and too low at WOT... right?
 
I would bet a six pack that it is an intake leak. Start it up, then spray some carb cleaner arount the intake carefully. You will hear a change in RPM's.
 
ill try that... if thats the case in theory i could also plug the throttle body and cut off the air flow that way and if it still runs then its getting air else where... correct?
 
I would bet a six pack that it is an intake leak. Start it up, then spray some carb cleaner arount the intake carefully. You will hear a change in RPM's.

Good to see that GREAT MINDS think alike! :cheers:
 
I will disagree with my learned colleagues, not a vacuum leak but a major intake leak.

It is likely you did not get the intake correctly seated on the locator pins and it is not sealing.

If I am right, you will have to loosen all of the intake/exhaust hardware and re-seat the intake manifold.

:worship: Well if you want to be nit picky then you're right! We were both implying the same thing.

P.S. Intakes Leak Vacuum. :rolleyes:
 
:worship: Well if you want to be nit picky then you're right! We were both implying the same thing.

P.S. Intakes Leak Vacuum. :rolleyes:

Nit picky? Moi? :cheers:
 
If you block the throttle body off with your hand and the engine doesn't die, you'll know that you have a leak.
 
u guys were right the intake manifold wasnt seated all the way... it was making contact with the exhaust manifold near cylinder one so i had to grind it down a bit to get it to sit flush...
 
Glad you got it worked out.

The intake also likes to hang up on the locating pins.
 
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