Ball Joints & U Joint Repair

2000 Classic Auto
147k miles
Bone Stock & wish to keep it that way
Daily Driver


So I've got my truck at my mechanic friend's shop and he looked it over and told me about the work that needs to be done to it.

1) Replace Leaky CSF 3 row heavy duty Radiator(lifetime warranty from radiatorbarn.com)
2) Flush Tranny Fluid *seeping at gasket
3) Brakes all around

All of the things but one I can do myself: Ball Joints on the steering linkage and u joints on the axle. 750 bux... does this sound reasonable?? He says there's some noticeable play in there... I'm thinking I should maybe just get it done.

My question is, if I get new ball joints/u joints work done, what are the noticeable differences in how my truck will drive/feel?

I think it's a lot of money, but want/need my car to keep running dependably down the line.

Thanks all

First thing to get straight is what ball joints you're referring to.

If ball joints (meaning the joints on which the steering knuckle pivots) are bad, you'll have a number of issues, including tire wear from camber change if they get bad enough, steering vagueness, possible wobbling, and some odd clunks and rattles. Replacing is a chore, requiring you to take the hubs off and disassemble the steering knuckle, and also requiring special tools to press the old ones out and the new ones in. However, it doesn't sound as if this is your problem.

If the ball-type joints on steering linkages are bad, you'll have sloppy steering, death wobble, and probably tire wear from increased toe-out. These are not terribly hard to replace, and might well be a good do-it-yourself project. You may need a puller but may not if you know where to hit with a hammer. Putting new parts in is very easy once old parts are out. You'll need to have it aligned when you're done.

Axle shaft universal joints also require that you take the hubs off, so do it together with ball joints if you need both, and if you need ball joints, you might consider doing it anyway. If they bind they will pulsate on turns and eat tires, and when they eventually get loose they'll pulsate, clank and clink, and if neglected long enough may break and cause collateral damage. You can also do this job yourself if you're patient, and though it helps to have a press, you can do it with hammer and assorted wrench sockets, or with a big vise. You will need a very big socket (36mm) and plenty of leverage to take the big nuts off the axle ends. Getting the hubs out may or may not be difficult, but you can find plenty of advice on this here, either in existing threads, or if you post when you need it.

If you're interested in doing it yourself, I think you can search around here and other Jeep sites and find some pretty good step by step illustrated pages.

You can double check the steering linkage if you get someone to wiggle the wheel while you're underneath looking at things. You can also check the universal joints, which are visible within the steering knuckle. If you can feel play, they're bad. If you can't feel play, double check by jacking up a wheel by the axle tube, crank steering all the way over to one side, and rotate the wheel. If binding is occurring, you'll feel it.

$750 sounds like a LOT for ball joints and u-joint changes, especially since labor can be combined, you'll pay maybe $100 in parts if both lower ball joints and both u-joints need replacing, but i doubt they are all bad.

That being said, the ball joints are very important to your safety, and the bad axle ujoints will cause major issues in 4x4.

Dont kid your self, save your self 600$ and do the work your self. Its not that hard. 750$ is unbelievably high.

For the u joints and ball joints, you can rent a ball joint press from autozone and use it for both the u joint and ball joints. There are lots of "how too's" on the net on how to do this.

And if you get stuck post here and we can help you out.

Order this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

Works great for changing ball joints and U-joints. Plus any excuse to get another tool right?

Actually, while that kit does appear to be the stouter press that HF sells..... get the Dana axle adapter kit. The surfaces on a D30 aren't perfectly square, and while you probably can do it with that press, the right adapters make the job a lot simpler.

Jesus, 750?

Nope, not worth it. Buy the parts and do it yourself. The first time I ever did balljoints it took me 2 hours per side. You will spend less than 200 on parts even if you buy top quality EVERYTHING - which I would suggest. You need two Spicer 5-760X u-joints. If the balljoints needed are the ones in the steering knuckles not the ones in the linkages, you need two Spicer 706944X kits (40 bucks a kit on alljeep.com) otherwise you need the tie rod ends and possibly a new drag link.

You will need a 12 point, 12mm socket to remove the unit bearings from the vehicle to get at the U-joints. Also get a 3/8 to 1/2 square drive ratchet adapter if you don't have one already, and a 1/2" breaker bar.

Be careful with that HF ball joint press, it WILL work, but you have to use it correctly. Tighten it down till its tight then give another 1/4 turn, then give a fairly good smack to the C of the axle or knuckle. Keep doing that till it pops out. If you crank it hard as you can, it will bend.

BTW if you have the money you should consider replacing your wheel hubs since you will need to take them off anyway.

Amplifying the above a little more, I would suggest that if you're reasonably mechanical, and if you take the time to do things right, then you will not only be able to do the work and buy the parts, but probably buy all the special tools you need to do the job, and still spend a good deal less than $750. Of course you need to be able to take the time, and to have some place to work, but if you do, and if that kind of work appeals to you, you will get the job done well, learn some skills, and you get to keep the tools when you're done.