Just a few questions regarding modifications for reliability...

First off let me just clarify, I am not really interested in rock crawling or anything extreme, at least not while this is my daily driver. At most some light to moderate wheeling on trails to back country camp sites, fording the occasional river or mud bog, and/or towing an ATV/JetSki out to a remote location on the lake. Nothing that would require an 8.5 inch lift, huge tires, or anything super elaborate.

Ive already got a procomp 3inch lift and a set of 32x10.5 tires, on some cheapo steel wheels with a 4.5inch backspacing. Otherwise Im pretty much stock at the moment (engine as well). As far as after market goes, I plan on getting bumpers with Class II receivers, front and back (including a spare tire/jack/gas can mount), and a winch attached to a hitch so I can use it on either end if necessary. That said, I am othewise focusing on reliability and durability.

My question for you all is what are the most common components to break on the trail? Track bars? Tie Rods? U/Ball Joints? Where are the weakest links so to speak? I am no expert mechanic, and am usually either out by myself, the only 4x4 in the group, or with my son/girlfriend, so I want to try and be proactive with this and avoid major repairs on the trail. Though money is a factor, I would be happy to spend the extra coin on quality components to that end. I hope I am not being to vague with my question and would apprecaite any advice you all might have.

With your rig, I would expect to break... u-joints, axleshafts (usually break when the u-joints let go), maybe dent or kink a driveshaft tube. Probably drag the exhaust on things and tear/bend it up. Upper control arms, though you probably don't romp on it hard enough to break those. The tie rod is another thing to worry about, the stock one sucks. Grab one off of / meant for a ZJ with the V8 motor and your worries are over. Find a stock front steering skid plate and bolt it up and I think you'll be pretty much set.

What year XJ? If you have a 95 or later you don't need to worry as much about U-joints and axleshafts, just run em till the joints start making noise, then replace them with spicer 5-760X joints.

Oh, bring a tool set and a spare CPS, a CPS can go bad on you anywhere, anytime, and you are dead in the water till you replace it. Takes 10 minutes with the right tools. Bring a roll of painters plastic (3mil or thicker) to make your life better if you have to crawl under the jeep in a muddy area.

Put some spicer 5-760X u-joints in your front axleshafts with full circle clips and you will have much improved axleshaft strength. If you have a D35 in the rear, swap it out for an 8.25. Get a heavy duty steering upgrade. That should set you up pretty well.

jeeperjohn said:

Put some spicer 5-760X u-joints in your front axleshafts with full circle clips and you will have much improved axleshaft strength. If you have a D35 in the rear, swap it out for an 8.25. Get a heavy duty steering upgrade. That should set you up pretty well.

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Its got a Chrystler 8.25 so hopefully Im good there.

What year?

If you've got a plastic gas tank, might want to consider a skid.

Rock rails are usually considered a must.

X2 on the year. Do you have an SYE? Maybe get some heavy duty diff covers. Some sliders. Possibly long arm or get drop brackets, these will improve ride quality.

You might consider upgrading to a HD 2 or 3 core radiator and otherwise making sure the cooling system is good to go.

Sorry forgot to mention the year... its a '95 Sport (2-Door). Looks like new Tie Bar and U-Joints are definately in order at the minimum! Was most certainly planning on a set of rock sliders as well, in fact Im in the design stage of having some fabbed up along with some custom fenders from a local guy here. And nope no SYE, other than the suspension and wheels/tires it is otherwise stock. I did pick up an Optima Yellowtop the other day though lol.

Skid plates are usually cheaper than damage. Just something to consider.

One thing I didn't see mentioned: gears. Dunno if you're still running the stock axle gears, but for the tyres you're on, 4.10s would give you a good balance between grunt and daily-driver liveability; fuel economy should also be improved somewhat. Cooling should benefit to an extent, though (as others have suggested) that would be worth looking at as a separate project.

Didn't see the transmission mentioned, but if it's an AW4 an auxiliary tranny cooler is definitely worth the investment. Heat kills automatics, so whatever advantage you can give it in terms of staying at its expected temperature is a plus.

Oh, and have a build plan mapped out before you get into doing your upgrades - for example, if the cooling system needs attention anyway, that would be a good excuse to bulletproof everything related to it in one fell swoop. With that out of the way, you can move on to the next project and not have to worry about having things in different areas semi-completed.

Pair of coveralls, a set of tools to stay in the jeep, and some spare parts as mentioned above.

Although probably not neccesary, a power steering cooler is a nice thing to have with 33's. I just used a ZJ trans cooler. No more whine.

Its a 5 speed by the way... and I very much appreciate all your input as well. It is all very helpful!

Hi boy jack
tow straps.
tree hugger
(((full size spare))))
If you off alone a cell and/or CB
A SMALL tool box with min tool.

OK not mods but good stuff to have.
Flash light.

So I put some Spicer 5-760X U-Joints in along with some Spicer ball joints, right and left side. Unit bearings are popping so thats probably the next thing to go. Tie rod is coming next paycheck. Thanks for all the advice guys, keep the suggestions coming if you have em!

The radiator cap should be changed every two years. If the thermostat is old replace it or at least carry a spare.

I don't think I saw this mentioned yet but bracing the steering box is a good idea with bigger tires. The stock aluminum spacer is junk.

Geo Fry said:

I don't think I saw this mentioned yet but bracing the steering box is a good idea with bigger tires. The stock aluminum spacer is junk.

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My tires arent that much bigger than stock, only 32s.

ZenDragon said:

My tires arent that much bigger than stock, only 32s.

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True, but stock tyres are 28". At 32", you're nearly 15% over stock. It doesn't sound like a lot, but that stock steering brace barely holds up to stock-sized tyres. If it hasn't actually broken into pieces by now, there's a good chance it has at least one crack in it.