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Brown Dog Mounts - write up

XJensen

XJensen

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sacramento
Well I won a pair of Brown Dog Mounts during SierraFest this past summer and finally got around to putting them on, something I should have done right away.
I thought I would do a little write up on my install and help spread the word about a great product. The entire install took about three hours on my own, the drivers side taking most of that time.

Here is a shot of the stock drivers side mount. Everything looked fine installed but once I got them off it was obvious they needed to be replaced long ago.
BrownDog%20004.jpg


Shot of the stock pass side
BrownDog%20007.jpg


These new mounts look nice
BrownDog%20008.jpg


First step was to block the tires and remove the stock air box completely
BrownDog%20009.jpg
 
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With the air box out of the way you can reach the drivers side mount.
BrownDog%20010.jpg


the mount bolt closest to the engine is located under the frame mount. These were the most difficult for me to remove and required a breaker bar with an extension. I believe it was a 15mm bolt and a 13mm for the stock top bolt.
BrownDog%20011.jpg


once the mount was loose from the frame I jacked up the engine with a block of wood to get the pressure off and removed the main bolt with two 18mm sockets. You need to loosen the tranny mount before lifting the engine. I choose to replace my tranny mount.
BrownDog%20013.jpg


the bolt slides right out when the engine is elevated to the right position. This is also where a little help would speed up the process, especially while trying to line up the new mount.
BrownDog%20014.jpg
 
A shot with the mount removed. the bolt for frame mount farthest from the engine is threaded for the supplied bolt.
BrownDog%20015.jpg


I found it easier to tighten the base the to line up the main bolt by moving the engine with the jack
BrownDog%20017.jpg


Drivers side installed
BrownDog%20018.jpg


got everything tightened up. Too bad the air box is going to hide it, that is one good looking mount. Also remember to get new lock nuts for the main bolt. Do not reuse the original!
BrownDog%20019.jpg
 
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I have a 2001 so the oil filter is already in the horizontal position and did not need to be removed
BrownDog%20022.jpg


A quick comparison.
BrownDog%20023.jpg


The passenger side went very quickly for me. Also my outer frame bolt, shown next to the flag decal was a stud and not a nutsert on the pass side. The drivers side required a bolt while the pass required a nut.
BrownDog%20024.jpg


bad picture but the rubber in the mount is depressed more than 1/4"
BrownDog%20025.jpg


Over all everything fit very well and the install was easier than one might think. I also did not realize how bad I actually needed them.
 
Cool write-up and good pics. Maybe you'll win the engine block mount during the 2011 SF ha ha. Did you notice any engine vibe transfer to the dash while sitting at idle? I had to loosen and adjust the through bolt on mine and it seemed to improve the vibes a bit.
 
I just got these mounts, but with the super block mounts. Ill post some pictures up when I do. I got the poly mounts as well. Not to worried about "vibes" on a jacked up jeep to be honest :greensmok

Just one suggestion:

wix-oil-filters.gif
 
Bloody fingers, lol(that's me). I've been liking the Mores I installed a few months ago. My ~2 yo stock replacement ds mount was cracked(horrible design those loose triangles are).
Edit: MM vibes are there at idle(bumping it up 100rpm would help), but man did the daystar tranny mount produce 3xs the vibes.
 
My Brown Dogs are set up with the natural rubber instead of poly--zero vibes.
 
Question about the old stock mounts. Is the rubber supposed to be attached to the surrounding steel body? My mounts look like that when installed but I wasn't sure if the rubber was supposed to look like that or be connected all the way around.
 
muddeprived said:
Question about the old stock mounts. Is the rubber supposed to be attached to the surrounding steel body? My mounts look like that when installed but I wasn't sure if the rubber was supposed to look like that or be connected all the way around.
Click to expand...


Yeah, the little hole below the through bolt collapsed completely a long time ago and the rubber wore down.

only pic I could find of OEM replacement

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56003_03.htm

Josh
 
I have done alot of reading on fram filters but what I read is the opposite of my own experience. My dad owned a 86 ford f-150 with the inline-6 motor. He used penzoil and fram filters from as long as I could remember him owning that truck. The truck is actually owned by another guy at his work now, has over 300k miles on it, and engine is still going. The body is another story and the reason it didn't pass inspection. I would think if all the bad talk about fram filters were true, the engine wouldn't go 300k miles and last 24 years.

But.........for some reason I still believe what i read and I only use Purolator filters.
 
They weren't always junk, like 24 years ago. What compounds the problem with crappy oil filters on our Jeeps is the fact that the oil filter is mounted sideways or upside down. That makes it critical to use a filter with a high quality anti-drainback valve. The Ford filter probably mounts so that anti-drainback isn't an issue.
 
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There $4.50 apiece at rock auto, I do not have a local nappa. Purolaters are good too, I just find they have a much thinner shell that crushes when you try and remove them.

I mean, in reality, your probably not gonna see a FRAM fail on you... but my take the chance when a wix is the same price. Especially on a tractor motor like a 4.0, there is really no reason to spend $$$ on Amsoil filters or the like.

Oh and I just remember a funny story. I was at a car show with my dads friend. We were looking at a vintage Porsche for sale. The friend was kinda pissed because it had a NAPA filter on it. The owner didnt know what to say, so I chipped in with "oh thats a napa gold, its made by WIX, good stuff!". The friend was like WTF how did you know that!!!!!!
 
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