Hydrolocked 4.0 -> Motor Swap questions...

So I have a 1997 XJ with a hydrolocked 4.0. I managed to find another 4.0, with about 10k on a fresh rebuild, from a 94' Wrangler to swap in. Pulled the motor, tranny and xfre case and I'm in the process of swapping all my accessories from the old motor to the new. I had planned on swapping the entire motor, head and all, when I ran into a couple quirks. I'm hoping someone might have answers, seeing as searching didn't seem to turn up much.

Is there any reason I can't use the 94' head or should I consider swapping with the newer?

The '94 head has a one prong sensor near the back of the valve cover. I'm guessing this is a coolant temp sensor? Which is odd as it also has a coolant temp sensor mounted in the water pump housing. Any issue with leaving it disconnected?

The '94 motor mated up to an AX-15 5 speed, same as my XJ. Can I reuse that flywheel, or is the timing different for some reason that would necessitate swapping flywheels?

The older flywheel looks to have some high spots on the back side. Do I need to have it machined first or is this anything to worry about?

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and hopefully someone can clear some things up. Also, if you're around the Daytona Beach area and want to lend a hand, offer advice, or just stand around and laugh while a couple of Jeep newbies make mistakes, I'll buy the beer. :wave1:

The one-wire sensor in the back of the head would be the Temperature gauge/idiot light sender, in that position through 96.

The CTS would be in the thermostat housing.

I BELIEVE the OBDI and OBDII flywheels are interchangeable, but you should look up the part numbers on rockauto.com to be sure.

High spots on the backside of the flywheel--facing the engine block? Don't worry.

The high spots are on the backside facing away from the engine block, facing toward the back of the transmission. Instead of a mirror like finish, there are about 6-7 high spots where it was rubbed flat. Probably nothing but I'm a Jeep motor swap virgin.

Ok, that would be the "face" of the flywheel where the clutch disc rides.

There is an issue with the Jeep hydraulic clutches, if you have too much material removed from the flywheel your disengagement will suffer, maybe not immediately but after the new clutch wears a bit there may be problems.

So, if it needs more than a little "cleaning up", about .003~.006 of an inch, you need a new flywheel.

You can leave the older dash gauge sensor unplugged. I'm using a machined flywheel w/o any issues(and he has told me .006" is the minimum he can take off when machining brakes, flywheels, heads, blocks, etc), but did come to find out that new flywheels were cheap. I'd deal with it one way or the other before you put it in.