oblivion_twister
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rio Rancho NM
Looking at dropping my d35 for an 8.25. Is there a way to remove the ABS pump and setup without replacing all the hard lines? all on a 96
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what to do? removing ABS pump
- Thread starter oblivion_twister
- Start date
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
On the late model ABS you can just disable the system by pulling the fuses.
You can't do that on the early ones because there is no vacuum booster system.
You can't do that on the early ones because there is no vacuum booster system.
oblivion_twister
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rio Rancho NM
yeah but I want to make room for something else. Unless a 99 8.25 has a compatible setup for abs. Then I might just rig up a switch to disable it while off road.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
All ABS are D35s.
Keekleberrys
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Issaquah
You should do the d44 abs conversion that fyrfytr did!
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=998638
lowicz96
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flint/Asheville
Wow, thats alot of work to make ABS work for not much benefit. I may be bias but i hate when i borrow friends cars in winter and the dang ABS is always going off on snowy roads. It gives people false sense of security
Making new hard lines is pretty easy with a beer bottle and a double flare making set.
The closest you'll get on that (if memory serves) is an 8.25 from an ABSed KJ - my recollection is that that's the only one to have two tone rings on the axle shafts rather than one on the driveshaft. However, I can't remember if the tooth count and spacing on the rings would be compatible with those on the D35, and you'd have to deal with all of the spring perch issues. Could be useful for gaining rear discs, but I digress.
What are you planning on putting in the spot where the ABS master cylinder is now? You'll definitely gain some space by replacing it with a regular master cylinder, but it doesn't seem like very usable space.
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clean4drxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT.
ABS on a jeep sucks, pull the fuses andput the rear in and call it a day.
f I remember correctly there was machining involved to make the D35 tone rings fit the 8.25 axle.
My advice:
Go get the non ABS master cylinder and proportioning valve, remove ABS pump, re route lines to new master cylinder. Have a Jeep that doesn't have ABS, just like it came from the factory. There's no reason to re engineer this, it's all bolt in stuff from the parts store. You might want to go to the junkyard and pick up an old one for mockup and core charges, and while I have run junkyard calipers (my 8.8 calipers are still junkyard and rocking out after 3 years) I would not trust my life to a junkyard master cylinder.
Yep, that's my recollection as well - but my thought was to use the 8.25 from a KJ with ABS. Solves the tone ring problem (possibly) since it had them on the axle shafts, and opens up the likelihood of getting it with discs.
Buddy of mine had a Dakota with ABS and the 8.25 (IIRC), but the ABS was single-channel with one tone ring on the pinion. You could possibly adapt an XJ system to that by placing both ABS sensors at 180 degrees from each other and pointing them at that one tone ring, but I doubt it would be very effective - and that assumes that the sensors and tone rings are compatible between the XJ and Dakota.
Agreed. Or just do what I did in my D44 swap: tie the rear sensors somewhere up out of the way for the day that adding ABS back in becomes a project, pull the ABS relay and fuses to the ABS motor and solenoid in the PDC, and call it done. Four years of driving it like this and the brake hydraulics are hunky-dory.
I'm still wondering what he wants to locate in the space the ABS pump is taking up; it's not that big. Maybe something like one of the small ARB compressors that are just big enough to run lockers could go in there, but there are options for placing it elsewhere that wouldn't require the amount of work being considered.
Emphasis mine, but completely agreed. As much as dropping $600 on the Teraflex rear disc kit for the D44 was painful, there's no way in hell I'd trust my life or the life of others to brake components of unknown reliability.
yeah I completely agree. I left my 8.8 calipers on simply because at the time they were only about 5 years old, and they had not been disconnected from the explorers brake sstem and allowed to dry/rust internally. Had I not gone and goten it and watched the lines cut I would have rebuilt/core swapped them.
As it was I ran the junkyard calipers/pads/discs for a while, until the Jeep sat for a long time and the internal parking brake rusted. That left me with this:
fun times cutting the rotor hat and collapsing e-brake pads with my air impact all the way round.
but yes, use some sense regarding junkyard brake components. If you didn't see them come out and watched good fluid come out with it then do not use it. Even if it did it might be bad, brakes are important mmmmkay.
As it was I ran the junkyard calipers/pads/discs for a while, until the Jeep sat for a long time and the internal parking brake rusted. That left me with this:
fun times cutting the rotor hat and collapsing e-brake pads with my air impact all the way round.
but yes, use some sense regarding junkyard brake components. If you didn't see them come out and watched good fluid come out with it then do not use it. Even if it did it might be bad, brakes are important mmmmkay.
As it was I ran the junkyard calipers/pads/discs for a while, until the Jeep sat for a long time and the internal parking brake rusted. That left me with this:
fun times cutting the rotor hat and collapsing e-brake pads with my air impact all the way round.
Oh, God. That's just horrible. Never had to go quite that far with brake trouble... But would never, ever want to.
Just to expand on that point for anyone who may be wondering about it: master cylinders are both hydraulic and mechanical - there's no way to verify that it's in good (read: safe) shape short of tearing it apart and inspecting all the seals, the piston(s), etc. It's entirely possible for the brake fluid to have been completely changed two miles before the vehicle was dragged into the yard, look perfectly clean, and have the rest of the brake system be in a complete mess despite that.
