Oil pan installation...at a loss

This has turned out to be the absolute worst job I've ever undertaken on this vehicle. I simply cannot get the oil pan back on. I've got the Jeep on jack stands on the frame, have the suspension at full sag, I've removed my center link, my stabilizer shock, my tie rods, my trac bar, my sway bar...everything is out of the way, I tried jacking the front axle up to ride height like other threads have mentioned...I simply CANNOT clear the front axle enough to get the pan in. I thought I had it so I put rtv on the pan and put the gasket on, it rubbed so much **** going up the gasket ended up in the pan.

I'm at a loss, I've been at this since Saturday, I have absolutely no clue how to get the pan back up without rubbing the entire way and having the gasket fall into the pan.

Suggestions please

2000 XJ

I've read that some people use a couple zipties on the corners of the gasket to keep it in place then once the bolts are in a little, cut the zipties off. Should solve the gasket issue

did you remove the starter ?thats what kept screwin me it was gettin stuck between the exhaust and the starter

I agree on the zip ties, or bread twistys, I'd use twisty's.

Hopefully you have the Fel-Pro one piece rubber gasket. If not, if you have a cork 4 piece I thoroghly recommend getting the Fel-Pro...for 40-45 bucks makes a big difference.

Then, as crazy as it sounds, jack the axle UP about 2". I know, I said up! Changes the geometry of the space to accept the tapered pan. Let the gasket set on the pan for a day with RTV or adhesive RTV. Make sure you can clear the oil pump pick-up inside the pan, it should slide right in ( ...if I had a nickel for everytime I heard that...I'd have maybe a quarter))

If it doesn't, have patience, It took me 2 hours to clear 1/16" at the back of the pan (yet I didn't utter one cuss word...I uttered them ALL) until I jacked the FRONT AXLE up, just a skosh.

Maybe also remove the inspection shield, I think that is part of the procedure.

Pain in the ass but could also raise or lower at the trans. mount/ crossmember. Hey paradise, you wouldnt happen to know a Chris Harrel up there do you?

ParadiseXJ said:

I agree on the zip ties, or bread twistys, I'd use twisty's.

Hopefully you have the Fel-Pro one piece rubber gasket. If not, if you have a cork 4 piece I thoroghly recommend getting the Fel-Pro...for 40-45 bucks makes a big difference.

Then, as crazy as it sounds, jack the axle UP about 2". I know, I said up! Changes the geometry of the space to accept the tapered pan. Let the gasket set on the pan for a day with RTV or adhesive RTV. Make sure you can clear the oil pump pick-up inside the pan, it should slide right in ( ...if I had a nickel for everytime I heard that...I'd have maybe a quarter))

If it doesn't, have patience, It took me 2 hours to clear 1/16" at the back of the pan (yet I didn't utter one cuss word...I uttered them ALL) until I jacked the FRONT AXLE up, just a skosh.

Click to expand...

I tried jacking the front axle up...didn't do anything to help. I do have the felpro gasket.

One question I have...I thought I was at a point where I could install the pan, so I put the RTV on, put the gasket on, then tried to install the pan...of course it didn't work. Now I have a mess of dried RTV on my pan and my gasket...obviously I can scrape it off the pan, but not the gasket...did I ruin my gasket? Will I have to buy a new one, or am I ok just adding more RTV to the gasket when it's time?

5150mechanic said:

Pain in the ass but could also raise or lower at the trans. mount/ crossmember. Hey paradise, you wouldnt happen to know a Chris Harrel up there do you?

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I actually removed the 4 13mm bolts holding the trans to the crossmember to try that next...this maybe a stupid question, but where do I raise it from? Is the tranny pan strong enough to put a block of wood and jack under?

nismo5 said:

did you remove the starter ?thats what kept screwin me it was gettin stuck between the exhaust and the starter

Click to expand...

Yep...removed the starter too

The transfercase with some wood is cool too.Tranny pan is good to go.

Cool...that'll be my next move, trying to gain some clearance lifting it from there

I use 3M 8090 spray adhesive to hold the gasket in place. Spray the block, spray the top of the gasket, put gasket into position and hold it until it sticks. You have about 5 mins before it falls off to get the pan on. Don't spray both sides of the gasket, if you do you will regret this when it is time to line up the bolt holes in the pan.

Bryan C. said:

I use 3M 8090 spray adhesive to hold the gasket in place. Spray the block, spray the top of the gasket, put gasket into position and hold it until it sticks. You have about 5 mins before it falls off to get the pan on. Don't spray both sides of the gasket, if you do you will regret this when it is time to line up the bolt holes in the pan.

Click to expand...

Never thought to try something like that...good idea

Time for a suspension lift!

Even at 5.5" I still had to lift the body, while a friend slid the pan in. That was with wheels on the ground though

did you disconnect the front shocks too?

1990JEEPXJ said:

did you disconnect the front shocks too?

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No...I'm trying to avoid doing that, but I will if I have to

5150mechanic said:

Hey paradise, you wouldnt happen to know a Chris Harrel up there do you?

Click to expand...

I do not, I know lotsa people by sight, but bad on names. I owned a restaurant in town for 15 yrs.

When I did my RMS, I removed the springs and unbolted the lower shock mounts. I then removed the track bar bolt at the axle end and move it out of the way. I removed the steering stabilizer bolt at the axle and also the passenger side tie rod end at the steering knuckle, and swung all that out of the way. I then lowered the axle down as far as it would droop, and I had all kinds of clearance to slide the pan out. Believe me, it will make reinstalling the oil pan a lot easier too.

Another trick I really liked when I went to reinstall the pan was to use some RTV and install the pan gasket to the bottom of the engine block. Apply a thin stip of RTV round the bottom of the block. You don't need ungodly amounts of RTV. Just enough for the gasket to stick to the block. Start from the back around the dip and begin pressing the gasket in place. As you do this, use some of the pan bolts to hold the gasket in place as you work your way towards the front of the engine. Go back and press the gasket in place really well and let it sit for a while. Once the RTV has had a chance to set, you can remove the pan bolts holding the gasket in place, then proceed to install the pan. I feel it works better than using the zip ties or rubber band trick to hold the gasket to the pan. What worried me about gasket to the oil pan aspect, is that if the gasket at the rear of the pan dip is not perfectly in place to meet the groove in the rear bearing cap, you're going to wind up with a bigger leak. At least my way you know the gasket is where it is suppose to end up on the block, and the pan will seat itself the rest of the way.

The biggest mistake tha folks make with sealant is that too much is used. If it squeezes out of the outside of the engine, it just looks bad. However, it it is poking out the exterior, it is also squeezed out in the interior. So what you ask? The stuff can and does degrade and fall into the engine. I picked up the 98 for a song as it had multiple issues. Overheating (surprise!) being one of them. After I replaced the radiator, I cracked it open and found RTV scraps plugging the inlet side obstructing the flow. As I always replace the Tstat with a radiator change (why not, cheap part) I was not surprised to find a huge amount of RTV lurking.

So, when I use sealant, I put it on with my finger. A very light coat (just enough to see it) across the entire mating surface. When I install the part, I torque the fastener barely past finger tight and wait for the sealant to set. Then I torque to spec. The result? Never any sealant spludge. Also no leaks. Things like RTV and for that matter, superglue (for printed circuit board repair) were first created for use by the military. I was trained by the USAF way back in 71 on how to use the stuff.

Here is what the FSM has to say about the pan:
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Drain the oil. (really?)
4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
5. Disconnect the the exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe.
6. Remove the starter.
7. Remove the flywheel and transmission TC housing access cover.
8. If equipped, disconnect the level sensor.
9. Position a jack stand under the the engine vibration dampner.
10. Position a piece of wood (2x2) between the jack stand and the vibration dampner.
11. Remove engine mount through bolts.
12. Using the jack stand, raise engine until adequate clearance is obtained to remove the pan.
13. Remove the oil pan bolts. Carefully slide oil pan to the rear. If equipped with level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.

So, Jeep has you removing the starter and disconnecting the front half of the exhaust for clearance as well as disonnecting the exhaust. I can only assume that the proceedure is written with having the vehicle on a drive on lift in mind. Also Jeeps idea of a jack stand is what exhaust shops use to install systems. I suppose we would need to use a floor jack.

For installation, they recommed that 4 alignment dowls be made from 1.5" 1/4-20 bolts. Cut the heads off and slot them for ease of removal later. Install two dowels in the timing cover and the others at the back of the block. They also say to use the one piece gasket, putting it onto the block first and then install the pan.

Torque specs:
1/4 bolts are 84 inlbs.
5/16 bolts are 132 inlbs.

Hope this helps.

Oh, I do believe that you will need another gasket as lumpy RTV never seals...

Thanks SOOO very much for all the responses guys. TREMENDOUSLY helpful. I'm going to definitely try the method of applying the gasket to the bottom of the block and holding in place with the screws.

I've already gotten another gasket, I'd hate to have a leak after all this work because I didn't want to spend another $18 on a new gasket.

I guess one of the positives of the situation is I discovered (if you call it a positive) my tie rod that attaches to the pitman arm needs replaced...probably wouldn't have noticed it otherwise.