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Durango Steering Box Install Problems

L

LouisianaZJ

NAXJA Member #1362
Location
Louisiana
OK, got the durango box on the XJ. Having some problems I need to fix before tuesday wheelin trip:

1) stock jeep bolts feel like they are the wrong size. The thread in but feel like wrong pitch or somehow got cross threaeded.. tired several time to realign... Do I need new bolts? Someone on NAXJA mentioned the bolts are 1/4" too long or I need a 1/4" spacer?

2) steering input shaft. Got it about 50% onto threaded splines. used a small hammer to tap it on, but wont go further. suggestions? Not much room to work right there.
 
In order to install the Durango box, you need to space the box further from the frame than the old spacer provided. When you do that you will need longer bolts. I can't remember if the bolts are the same size/thread since I took my box to the hardware store and matched them to the bolts when I got longer ones. If you are going with the bigger box, I can't recommend highly enough to get some type of frame bracing. Most of the manufacturers offer the braces with the spacers and you can get them with longer spacers.
 
Steering shaft should be completely on the box. Slide a hardened washer into the split in the coupler then reinstall the pinch bolt. It will hit the washer and you can use it to open up the coupler.
 
If the flat part of the shaft is aligned with the flat in the coupler it should go on with only light tapping. As was mentioned you need to space the box away from the frame about 1/4". The bolts should be the same size and thread pitch.
 
Thanks
Got some new bolts and going to try the washer spacer on the steering shaft tonight. Yes, the key on the shaft was aligned the first try, might have been a couple splines off center, going at it again tonight
 
Got it all installed

1) Cleaned steering box holes with degreaser & blasted out. repositioned the box to square up bolts with holes. Installed new 7/16" x 4" 14tpi grade 8's with 1/8" washers between aluminum spacer and box (got lucky and lowes actually had the right size bolts in stock for once :flamemad:). 1/8" of threads stick out past steering gear ears.

Think the original bolts got cross threaded and deformed.

2) Removed input shaft * degreased/cleaned. Greased with antisieze & got it installed. Think crud was in there...

Looks good to go now. :cheers:
 
si112010031.jpg

got it in along w/ the antirock. Grade 8's are cool
 
jeeperjohn said:
Good to hear. How well does the box work for you compared to the stock one? I had to get a smaller PS pump pulley and open up the pressure orifice on the stock pump because the stock pump could not provide enough volume to work the new box.
Click to expand...

Interesting, kevin and I have been running the durango box with the stock pump for years. I was under the impression that the TC pumps were pretty much created equal. One thing on the Durango box is that you need to remove the steering stops to get full throw from the pitman arm. Also, it's recommended that you replace the stock aluminum inner plate with an aftermarket like the c-rok one.

Oh, one other thing I learned on these. The stock sector/pitman shaft bearings in these boxes are junk. I got a new bearing from west texas offroad with a rebuild kit. Higher needle count, and according to Matt at west texas, the bearing from the older saginaws is much better and that's what he sent me. The old bearing would let the shaft move if you put too much of a side load on it and that led to hemorrhaging.


Mark
 
markw said:
Interesting, kevin and I have been running the durango box with the stock pump for years. I was under the impression that the TC pumps were pretty much created equal. One thing on the Durango box is that you need to remove the steering stops to get full throw from the pitman arm. Also, it's recommended that you replace the stock aluminum inner plate with an aftermarket like the c-rok one.

Oh, one other thing I learned on these. The stock sector/pitman shaft bearings in these boxes are junk. I got a new bearing from west texas offroad with a rebuild kit. Higher needle count, and according to Matt at west texas, the bearing from the older saginaws is much better and that's what he sent me. The old bearing would let the shaft move if you put too much of a side load on it and that led to hemorrhaging.


Mark
Click to expand...
In order to make mine work right I had to drill out the pressure fitting orifice and run a smaller than stock pulley. Now the sunofabitch whines like a mother. I am trying to address this by upsizing the bypass piston orifice in the pump to allow more fluid flow through the bypass.
 
Hey correction to post #11. The new style bearing has fewer needles than the old style bearing. The prefered bearing is the "old style" with higher needle count as that will keep the shaft from moving. side to side and weeping.
 
jeeperjohn said:
In order to make mine work right I had to drill out the pressure fitting orifice and run a smaller than stock pulley. Now the sunofabitch whines like a mother. I am trying to address this by upsizing the bypass piston orifice in the pump to allow more fluid flow through the bypass.
Click to expand...
Just an update, I could not get the thing to quit whining. I believe it is simply drawing too much fluid through the reservoir and taking in air. I am probably going to fabricate a large sheetmetal reservoir with baffles and see how that goes.
 
jeeperjohn said:
Just an update, I could not get the thing to quit whining. I believe it is simply drawing too much fluid through the reservoir and taking in air. I am probably going to fabricate a large sheetmetal reservoir with baffles and see how that goes.
Click to expand...


John, since you seem to have done this mo d already im will have to contact you on what to do if i decide to go this route. My stock XJ Box leaks like a mofo!
 
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