HO fuel pump in a Renix. Is the gauge sending unit swappable?

I have learned a lot browsing on these forums. I discovered I can use a HO fuel pump in a renix cherokee. If I get a HO fuel pump/sending unit assembly from the junkyard, can I just swap the float off of my 88 cherokee and put it onto the HO pump/sending unit assembly?

Reason I am asking is because I have had bad luck with aftermarket fuel pumps and since I discovered I can use a HO pump, they are easier to find than renix, that they should last longer than aftermarket pumps.

So if anyone knows if the floats are removeable (since the gauge reads backwards on HO floats) Id just like to swap my renix float onto a HO pump/chassis and run that.

If not I can just swap the pump from the HO into my renix.

Thanks for any help!

Maybe yes, maybe no. 87-93 (Renix and HO) all can use a Bosch 69302 pump. In 94 the specification changes, but the pressures remained the same through 95, so I'm not sure of what the difference really is off the top of my head.

All things are possible and you should be able to make an EARLY HO pump work. 96 and later may be another story.

Funny you mention that bosch 69302. The one I am about to take out is the second 69302 since 2006 that went bad. The original pump lasts 20 years and I cant make these aftermarkets last 2. Out of the blue they stop priming, which prevents the engine from starting.

Anyways, I was planning on a 91-92ish or even a 93. I know the 96 some say are returnless and a whole different setup.

I think my best bet is just to install the early HO pump into my Renix fuel pump chassis. I was hoping to just leave the whole HO assembly in tact and just swap my renix gauge sending unit onto the HO chassis. Do you know if the floats are removeable?

Either the pump works or it doesn't.

The Renix system provides power to the fuel pump in many strange and mysterious ways:

First, power is provided to the fuel pump relay from the ignition switch, and the relay's energizing ground is provided by the ECU.

Key at ON, power to the fuel pump is through the fuel pump relay and ballast resistor, then its cut off after a couple of seconds by the ECU when no signal has been detected from the crank position sensor--that is the prime. Key at START and engine cranking, power to the fuel pump is through the starter relay, bypassing the ballast resistor. Key ON and engine running from idle up to just short of WOT power is through the fuel pump relay and ballast resistor. Key ON and engine at WOT power to the fuel pump is through the oxygen heater relay bypassing the ballast resistor.

I would be testing for key ON power to the fuel pump relay, as well as key ON ground to the fuel pump relay--it will only be there for a moment. That is the prime and if the pump won't prime that is where to start.

I guess I would actually start by making sure that the ignition switch and remote rod are positioning things correctly when the key is at ON. Those switches work loose, they get out of adjustment, and the connectors melt. After that is eliminated go for the power/ground tests at the fuel pump and B Latch relays.

Igntion switch is fairly new. There is juice at the relay and the connection just before the tank.

Might I add that the pump works at random. Sometimes it will prime and start fine, other times when I turn the key on, the pump will groan, and other times, it wont prime at all. Hitting the tank seems to wake it up. And also, when I get at a half tank, turning right makes the engine cut out. Also I can hear something knocking around in the tank when I stop and listen closely. I am confident nothing is wrong with the wiring. I need to get into the tank, no doubt.