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HP-d30 Chromo Shaft Reviews...

Senior_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY
-Gettin straght to the point, i did some searchin but couldnt find what i was lookin for & decided to just ask all of you!! My question is, id like to hear from those guys runnin 4340 chromo shafts in ur HP-d30s, either in 27spl OR 30splines, how they performed, ur experience with them??? The basis for this thread is to find out how those chromo shafts are holdin up in the "real world!!"

-Include things like what u have into ur HP-d30; ur drivin style; tire size; how happy u are with the brand ur runnin; there customer service; & if uve broken a chromo shaft then how did they honor there warrantees, etc, etc...

THANX!!!!
 
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i have ten factory 30 sp axles with an arb on 35's & beat it pretty hard on rocks. no problems yet other than 3 unit bearings.
 
I have the Alloy USA shafts in my D30 (stock spline count) and I have been very happy with them. I have broken one due to poor spotting (guy spotted me up an undercut on the passenger side). They replaced it without any question (this was before Alloy USA was sold). I would definitely recommend the new Ten Factory shafts as I believe they are identical to the former Alloy USA.
 
I bought a HP D30 from another member and it has 30-spline chromos in it, and I have had no issues. Had them on the Hammers, and the Rubicon and a bunch of other trails too.

Pretty sure the shafts were from Warn, but I am not 100% sure.

I picked up a set of Rubi D30/44 30-spline shafts off craigslist to use as spares. Haven't needed them yet... (knock on wood!)
 
In a HP-d30??
Doesn't matter if it is a HP or LP they all are the same shafts.

While I don't run a D30, if I did I personally wouldn't do any odd 30spline stuff. It makes carrying spares either expensive or non existent. Yes, yes they are chomo but anything can break especially on a D30. Carry a good set of stock shafts, 760 joints, and maybe a unit bearing and it will at least get you off the trail.

At the very least if you go with 30spline stuff carry a stock stub and unit bearing so you can attempt to maneuver if you break something.
 
Doesn't matter if it is a HP or LP they all are the same shafts.

While I don't run a D30, if I did I personally wouldn't do any odd 30spline stuff. It makes carrying spares either expensive or non existent. Yes, yes they are chomo but anything can break especially on a D30. Carry a good set of stock shafts, 760 joints, and maybe a unit bearing and it will at least get you off the trail.

At the very least if you go with 30spline stuff carry a stock stub and unit bearing so you can attempt to maneuver if you break something.

>>LOL<< Thats exactly what i do now!! I carry, (or carried), 2 sets of napa CV shafts for trail spares, a set of 27spl outter stub shafts & a set of hubs.
-Im gonna get a set of regular inner rubi shafts & mate em with the 27spl outter stubs for spares, giving me the 30/27spl spare trail shafts "IF" i ever need em!! (knockin on wood). These threads are doin great, keep ur chromo'd d30 stories commin ok!!!

THANX!!!
 
The Longfields are 27 spline and i'm running a Aussie for now but will be running a full case Detroit soon. i do not trust the stock carrier, its the weak link in the whole front end.
 
I ran 33's 36's and then 37's on a dana 30 with an ARB locker, CTM's, full circle clips, and the old Alloy USA (Now Ten) shafts for over 5 years with the Warn Hub conversion (Now Randys or Youkon Hubs).

I broke 3 short side axles at the locker, one time it took out the locker, broke 1 long side, I broke 2 Ring and Pinions, and few hubs. Never broke at the ears/U-joints, the CTM's are worth the cost.

The CTM's are still on my 44 still with the 30 outers, I have spun one short side, and have broke 4 or more hubs in the last 3 years.

My goal is to only break the hub, its a 5 minute fix, or I can drive on it even if it is broken. Loosing the Ring and Pinion/ARB locker is a expensive and not very easy fix.

The old Alloy USA was great to deal with, but . . . most the people I worked with are with Factory Ten now, they even warranted one of the old Alloy USA axles I broke.
 
I have an aussie with alloy shafts, yet to break anything (damnit I shouldn't of said that)

I run 33's right now and give her plenty of go pedal when needed, and I will be stepping up to 35's when my 33's are done. Just gotta go a little easier on the go pedal I suppose.

Whats your wheeling style? Do you like to romp on it and give her hell, or take it easy? If the latter why not just throw some alloys/fresh 760's in there and call it a day?

Again, do you find yourself breaking shafts often?
 
-Glad to hear alot of chromo shafts are holding up where the stock shafts have failed!! Seems as tho having a full case locker solves the carrier problem, selectable lockers & hub lockouts reduce alot of stress, chromo shafts solve spline & ear failures, & 760x full circle clipped ujoints are a great upgrade!!!

-I want to keep this thread on topic with nothing but dana 30 upgrade experiences, mainly there chromo shafts, so theres no need for driving style convos & other front end options. Keep the reviews & stories commin!!!

THANX!!!
 
Superior Super 30 axle shafts. I went with 27 spline outers too. These things
have held up very well for the past 3 years. Joints are still in great shape.
 
-Anybody have any experience running these: http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=353&plID=10762&partID=56109

-Appears to be a decent upgrade for $578 since u get the 30spl chromo stubs & u-joints to boot. Alls thats needed is the inner shafts bough seperately. If u bought a 30spl locker, then u got urself 30/30spl chromo shafts, truss it & cryo the R&P, & thats not bad for handling 35"s....

-Thats JUST my .02 tho as im just adding info to my thread. Would really love for someone whos running 30spl hubs to reply to this post!!!!
 
I'm going to side with the people saying not to get 30 spline anything. It is so much cheaper having your stock axles for replacements on the off chance that something breaks. Anything 30sp in your axle breaks and you are screwed.

Besides, I haven't heard of many people saying they've stripped the splines in a D30. Get the chromos/u-joints (or RCV's), ARB, some good Timken unit bearings, a beefy diff cover and maybe some sort of truss and have fun. Anything over that you are spending a TON of money (instead of just a ton) and you can still break stuff just as easy.
 
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