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Hacking and tapping.

Graeme

Graeme

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Greenwood, Nova Scotia.
I just ordered an Iron Rock Offroad HnT kit with a refurbed front driveshaft.

Just wondering if I have to pull the transfer case out to do the the tapping.

What did everyone use to cut the output shaft? I have a sawzall and an angle grinder and plan just to use that...

And the tapping part. Has anyone drilled and tapped with the TC on the vehicle? How did you ensure the whole went in straight?
 
I did mine similiar as the post above, but cut the tailshaft a bit different. A sawzall will bounce around like crazy on the splines, while trying to cut the tail shaft.

Remove the drivehshaft.

Mark the tail shaft where you want the cut. Get a small 6" circular power saw with a metal cutting carbide blade.

With your rig OUT OF 4 wheel drive, and your wheels blocked so your rig doesn't roll; start the engine, and put the tranny in reverse. This will allow the tailshaft to spin in the correct direction. Take the power saw and begin your cut while the tail shaft spins. The tailshaft doesn't really spin all that fast in idle. The counter rotations of the tailshaft and the saw blade will keep everything steady. The cut will take less than a minute, and the cut surface will be surprisingly straight.

Once the tail shaft is cut off, you can then drill and tap the end, for the flange mounting bolt. The center of the tailshaft is not harden, like the spline area. Do start with a 1/8" pilot hole, and work your way up to the correct hole.

Definately take your time tapping. A quick start with generous amounts of cuttng oil, back out and clean about every 1/4 turn of the tap. Don't rush this step, as removing a broken tap is a real pain....
 
Ivan said:
I did mine similiar as the post above, but cut the tailshaft a bit different. A sawzall will bounce around like crazy on the splines, while trying to cut the tail shaft.

Remove the drivehshaft.

Mark the tail shaft where you want the cut. Get a small 6" circular power saw with a metal cutting carbide blade.

With your rig OUT OF 4 wheel drive, and your wheels blocked so your rig doesn't roll; start the engine, and put the tranny in reverse. This will allow the tailshaft to spin in the correct direction. Take the power saw and begin your cut while the tail shaft spins. The tailshaft doesn't really spin all that fast in idle. The counter rotations of the tailshaft and the saw blade will keep everything steady. The cut will take less than a minute, and the cut surface will be surprisingly straight.

Once the tail shaft is cut off, you can then drill and tap the end, for the flange mounting bolt. The center of the tailshaft is not harden, like the spline area. Do start with a 1/8" pilot hole, and work your way up to the correct hole.

Definately take your time tapping. A quick start with generous amounts of cuttng oil, back out and clean about every 1/4 turn of the tap. Don't rush this step, as removing a broken tap is a real pain....
Click to expand...

Do this. I used a grinder instead of a circular saw with great results
 
did mine that way a couple hours ago. only issue was that the 1310 u joint in that driveshaft did not fit my rear yoke. I had to get a spicer 5-134x joint that is a 1310 one way and a 1330 the other.
 
dopod said:
Do this. I used a grinder instead of a circular saw with great results
Click to expand...

I used a grinder with cutoff wheel also. Works good. Take your time.

I would suggest using some tape to help you to keep a steady eye on the cut. Don't forget safety glasses and such.
 
Use grinder or other rotary cutting tool

Do put the transmission in reverse with the engine running for the cut. Since they are both spinning you will have a perfect cut, no way to get anything other than straight 90 degrees. After you complete the cut you will see a nice mark in the exact center of the shaft. Grind it smooth and center punch it, then again with the rig in reverse drill your pilot hole. Take is slow with the tap and it'll be a piece of cake.
 
All good tips. I just did my second one, and it went much smoother with a cutoff wheel than the sawzall I used the first time.

Something I found helpful this time was putting the tcase in neutral while drilling. With the shaft able to spin if the bit gets bound up, it is easier to not break anything. I broke a couple of small bits the first time I did it, I find it tough to line everything up while laying down there.

Once you get over the fear of taking a saw to the output shaft, the job is pretty easy.

Ben
 
drill and tap extra slow. i busted the tap off a few weekends ago. it took me an hour to get 95% of it removed so that i could retap it. no amount of drilling or chiseling the tap would get it out. i had to carefully use a cut of torch to blow the tap out.
 
how are you all drilling the center hole perfectly straight, Im having a bit of trouble trying to figure that out, going to do a hnt on mine this weekend.
 
I have a set of transfer punches and they help many different things. Once you have them you'll wonder what you did without them.
 
nosdujshsdl said:
how are you all drilling the center hole perfectly straight, Im having a bit of trouble trying to figure that out, going to do a hnt on mine this weekend.
Click to expand...

just hold the drill at straight as possible, thats all i did. the hole does not need to be perfectly straight, all the bolt does is hold on the flange. getting the hole centered is more inportant.
 
I did mine pretty much the same as everybody else above. I didn't however know about the reverse trick, that would have made it easier. As far as drilling straight, just hold the drill as straight as possible and go for it. Just make sure to have PLENTY of cutting oil and take your time. Cause that SOB is hard stuff!

I know I didn't drill mine exactly straight, but once i got the bolt tightened down it flattened out enough. And I used LockTite to make sure it wasn't gonna come loose. It's been 3 years and hasn't move a smiggen. :thumbup:
 
ok this might be a stupid question but what do u do about the seal housing. i have seen the red colored seal shousings but i have know idea where to get them. not sure but i was told the there are different ones for the older years. i was going to do the hack ntap but didnt have the seal housing situaytion figured out so any advice is much appreciated
 
the seal housing comes with the kit if you have a pre-96 XJ. the seal used in my RE kit is a commonly used seal carried by napa. 96+ XJ's do not require them.
 
ok i saw the re seal housing but theirs uses a flange type yoke im going to use an bolt on yoke. does the re seal housing work for both styles or no
 
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