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Oil Filter Adapter O-ring job - check!

mhopton

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Marietta, GA
99 4.0 daily driver with 110k on the clock. 4x4, AW4, NP231.

My OFA started leaking a few months ago and it has gotten progressively worse over the past 2-3 months, so, I read up on a few threads here and went to the Jeep dealer to get the o'rings, a new oil filter, a quart of oil, a 3/8th's by T60 bit and a 6-pack:cheers: (Terrapin Hopsecutionar IPA).

I read here that the T60 can be a real beyotch to break free, so I soaked it from the top/bottom with some PB Blaster to get started. Here's how I went about it.

Tools needed:
-3/8ths x T60 socket (bought mine at Autozone for $3.00)
-BFH hammer (I used a 3lb sledge)
-24" cheater bar
-10mm closed end wrench combo with 10mm gear wrench on the other end.

1. Jack up the front of the Jeep and remove the oil filter - you'll lose a bit of oil, but not too much and undo (-) ground on battery.
2. Take your new T60 socket and with your BFH remove the T60 bit from the 3/8ths" socket head. I held the T60 bit with a pair of channel locks and drove home a 3"x1/4" drive extension to break free the T60 bit from the socket head. What was left was a 10mm hex head.
3. From underneath, place the T60 on the end of the OFA, hold in place, slide the closed end 10mm wrench over the end of the T60 bit.
4. With 24" cheater bar (I used a piece of gas line), turn slowly and smile as the T60 breaks free.
5. From above, use the gear wrench end of the wrench to continue loosening the OFA until it come off.
6. Separate the two pieces, pull of the old o'rings with a dental pick and proceed to scrub clean inside and out with simple green, brake cleaner, or whatever. Let dry.
7. Soak new o'rings in clean oil for a few minutes and install on the now clean ofa.
8. Start threads with your hand and retighten onto the block with the gear wrench. Watch for the tit that sticks out from the block and be sure it aligns with the indent on the OFA to keep the OFA from spinning when tightening.
9. Replace oil filter, put in 2/3rds quart of oil, reconnect ground, crank and check for leaks.
10. Get underneath and clean all the gunk built up from the leaky OFA.

Easy huh? Well, it was after figuring it out. The angle of the T60 was a pain to figure out how to get leverage on it. I tried taping a crescent wrench to the T60 bit, but it wouldn't stay in place and the crescent wouldn't stay put. I tried from above, below...finally, the closed end wrench did the trick along with removing the T60 bit from the socket head.

Total cost - $13 and no more oil leaks

Next, RMS, FMS and water pump... :us:
 
I used the T-60 from one of those "L" shaped Allen Key type Torx sets and my usual trusty 3 foot length of steel pipe. Had no trouble whatsoever. That bit of flex the torx tool had gave it some spring, so I just had to use sustained pressure and a couple of extra bounces on the end of the pipe to make it break free nice and easy.
 
I did this on my 2000 at the end of October...what a PIA! Mainly because of the nature of the job being such an oily mess, so it's hard to get a solid grip on anything...at least it was for me.

Alas...I did my oil pan gasket and rear main a couple weeks ago just to find that my oil filter housing is STILL leaking. I'll deal with the drip.
 
Easier for MACHINES, i.e., robotic assembly.

Machines don't join unions, take breaks, or get tired of doing their jobs and screw things up just for laughs.
 
Google "robotic assembly with Torx" and you will find all your answers.

Essentially it is faster with Torx on robotic systems than other drive type--time = money, ergo Torx is used as its all about the Benjamins.
 
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