Can someone verifiy that this is a limited slip? *pic with cover plate off*

Out of a Chrysler 8.25. Is this a limited slip?




Also how can I go about pulling an axle shaft to see how many splines I have?

No, thats open...you can see the spiders in the carrier

Look for clutch packs on the sides in the event its a posi. That will still have the spiders

That is a limited slip yes.....the open carriers are more rounded on the end where as that one is squared off where the clutch packs are.

X2, that is a limited slip. To pull the shafts you need to remove the cross shaft, push an axle shaft in far enough to slip a c clip off, then slide the axle shaft out. Getting the spiders, clutch packs, S-spring (in some LSDs), and spider gear washers/shims back in can be interesting. Mind taking a shot looking straight into the hole in the side of the carrier?

kastein said:

X2, that is a limited slip. To pull the shafts you need to remove the cross shaft, push an axle shaft in far enough to slip a c clip off, then slide the axle shaft out. Getting the spiders, clutch packs, S-spring (in some LSDs), and spider gear washers/shims back in can be interesting. Mind taking a shot looking straight into the hole in the side of the carrier?

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Sure I can do that but it wont be until tonight. I just got cleaned up and am about to head off for work.

Sorry for my ignorance, but where is the cross shaft?

This was the first axle I've ever removed myself. And oh boy did I learn a lesson. SUPPORT THE VEHICLE WELL because the jack fell over and then the jeep fell on top of the differential cracking my gas tank.

:shocked: it's a hell of a scare when that happens isn't it?

yeah I almost did that once... fortunately I still had the tires on and it just rolled back a couple inches till the jack fell over and it landed on the wheel.

The cross shaft is the shaft that goes through the two differential spider gears, it crosses the carrier at a right angle to the axle shafts. You can see the ends through the sides of the carrier (one is pictured right next to the ring gear teeth.) You have to remove the retention pin/bolt to remove the cross shaft, on a d35 this is a 12 point 1/4" or 5/16" headed bolt, on an 8.25 I believe it is a 5/16" 6 point head. You should use a good quality 5/16" wrench and NOTHING else, if you try to jam a socket in there at an angle or use an 8mm wrench or anything else, you are liable to round the bolt head off... which really sucks because then you can't get the cross shaft out, which means you can't get the axle shafts out, which means you can't get the carrier or the gears out. It's a royal pain in the ass when that happens and I learned this lesson by doing it to my 8.8, ended up very carefully welding the head of another bolt onto what was left of the original, then heating the bolt/carrier till the threadlocker softened and carefully backing the bolt out.

90Pioneer said:

Sure I can do that but it wont be until tonight. I just got cleaned up and am about to head off for work.

Sorry for my ignorance, but where is the cross shaft?

This was the first axle I've ever removed myself. And oh boy did I learn a lesson. SUPPORT THE VEHICLE WELL because the jack fell over and then the jeep fell on top of the differential cracking my gas tank.

Click to expand...

One of the major safety rules is to ALWAYS use jackstands. Do not rely on a jack to keep a vehicle in the air.

outkast7222 said:

That is a limited slip yes.....the open carriers are more rounded on the end where as that one is squared off where the clutch packs are.

Click to expand...

kastein said:

The cross shaft is the shaft that goes through the two differential spider gears, it crosses the carrier at a right angle to the axle shafts. You can see the ends through the sides of the carrier (one is pictured right next to the ring gear teeth.) You have to remove the retention pin/bolt to remove the cross shaft, on a d35 this is a 12 point 1/4" or 5/16" headed bolt, on an 8.25 I believe it is a 5/16" 6 point head. You should use a good quality 5/16" wrench and NOTHING else, if you try to jam a socket in there at an angle or use an 8mm wrench or anything else, you are liable to round the bolt head off... which really sucks because then you can't get the cross shaft out, which means you can't get the axle shafts out, which means you can't get the carrier or the gears out. It's a royal pain in the ass when that happens and I learned this lesson by doing it to my 8.8, ended up very carefully welding the head of another bolt onto what was left of the original, then heating the bolt/carrier till the threadlocker softened and carefully backing the bolt out.

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yep. just rounded the head of the cross pin retaining bolt on a junkyard 8.25 in my garage that i was pulling shafts from. it split an 8mm socket (same as a 5/16). gonna be fun to fix.

ChiXJeff said:

One of the major safety rules is to ALWAYS use jackstands. Do not rely on a jack to keep a vehicle in the air.

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yep. i just realized when jacking up my pickup that my hydrolic jack is low on oil and it gave out lifting the front of the truck to put on jackstands. using jackstands is the #1 rule for working on vehicles.

stewie said:

yep. just rounded the head of the cross pin retaining bolt on a junkyard 8.25 in my garage that i was pulling shafts from. it split an 8mm socket (same as a 5/16). gonna be fun to fix.

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Not quite the same I learned it the wrong way too.

8mm is 0.0025" bigger than 5/16". Hard to believe it makes a difference, but it did for me. Good quality 5/16" = success, lousy quality 5/16" or 8mm = :flamemad:

Same thing goes for using an open end wrench, you gotta use a closed end / box wrench or it'll stretch and round the points off, and I couldn't fit my line wrench on it, not enough space around the head.

yup, for example 8mm is fine for pulling a rear driveshaft, but up front, ive found the extra bite of a 5/16 helps avoid strippage.

very few metric 'equivelants' are actually equal equal to their sae partners, a good mechanic uses this to his advantage!

good to know kastein

xcm said:

very few metric 'equivelants' are actually equal equal to their sae partners, a good mechanic uses this to his advantage!

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yep... for instance if a 9/16 (14.28mm) seems too rusty to remove without rounding off, you can hammer a 14mm onto it. I've put 12mm 12-points onto 1/2" (or 13mm, not really sure) heavily rusted d30 unit bearing bolts that I thought would never come out, they came out on the first try.

OK here is the pic as requested:



I dont see any bolts that take a 5 1/6th inch socket.

The one you referenced next to the ring gear teeth in the picture, the bolt head is much smaller than 5/16th. They are aftermarket 4:56 gears. Could this by why?

That's rather odd, usually it's a 5/16" as far as I know. Try a 1/4" maybe? Make sure it has absolutely no play before putting any real force on it. Might even want to warm the carrier a bit with a propane torch (don't go overboard with it, if it starts discoloring slightly you have gone farther than you needed to but it shouldn't really hurt anything) to break up the threadlocker before you start turning it.

The bolt head you are looking for points straight through the end of the cross shaft toward the ring gear, sounds like you found the right one.

Now i'm really confused because 7mm is too large, 6mm is too small. 5 1/6th is too large and 1/4 is too small. WTF

Also it doesnt look like a typical bolt head. Here's a pic:



What do I do?

The bolt head has "SPS 9" written on it

That is a 12 point bolt head for sure. SHOULD be 5/16 or 1/4, but might not be. If 5/16 and 1/4 don't fit, try 9/32...



Only time I've ever seen a 12 point was on a d35 that had a 1/4" 12pt headed bolt in it.

9/32nd is also too big.

So I guess this means I have to find somewhere that sells 12pt sockets somewhere as 6 points wont work?

Ugh I wish there was a 24 hour parts store open around here!

Yup... I got my set from Sears. Picked up a set of 1/4" drive deep 12-point SAE sockets that included 1/4-9/16", I use them pretty frequently. 5/16" and 1/4" are by far the ones I use the most.

For this purpose you want a non-deep socket if you can find one, and definitely as thin wall as you can find. If you get a deep socket like mine you'll end up having to pull the bearing cap to get the socket and wrench in, which isn't bad when you're in the shop but if you have to swap a shaft on the trail it'll be annoying to have to retorque the bearing cap bolts.