After searching, I'm still at a loss - where does one find TRE's for custom steering?

[YELLAHEEP]

Someone's gotta know where to get this info - too many of you guys out there running crossover and high steer setups. I'm looking to cobble together a DOM tube drag link and center link, but can't seem to find any info about the TRE's you all are using. I'm particularly interested in the right side TRE that has the hole in it for the drag link TRE. Hook a 'brutha up here guys! :D

[EricT]

basically they are chevy 3/4 ton tre's
you can goto shaker built (http://www.shakerbuilt.com/) and get info

[Beezil]

what thread size are you looking to run?

are you looking to run the oem knuckle taper, or would you be willing to open it up a wee bit?

have you TOTALLY ruled out hiems?

[JnJ]

Some good info here. This is what Eric and my steering are based on:
http://www.vintagebronco.com/newberry/pages/tech/tre/tre2.html

http://jeep_n_john.tripod.com/frontend1.jpg

Hey Beez, remember that guy that always said heims suck? I think he was going to make some t-shirts that said that. Whatever happened to that guy?

[JeepFreak21]

I've been doing the same research. Here's what I've got:
part numbers:
ES2233L
ES2234R
ES2027L
ES2026R

Those should be both ends for the tie rod and drag link. I believe they're from an '85 Blazer. The taper on the ends is 7*. The threads are 7/8-18 right and left hand.
I'm going to use 1.25" DOM with an ID of 1" and weld in some inserts that accept the TREs. You can do that or get smaller ID DOM and tap it.

Hope that helps :D

[Beezil]

:D

H-E-I-M-S S-U-C-K was too long of a word to make an affordable t-shirt, so i changed it to

J-N-J S-U-X

you want one?

[JnJ]

Originally posted by Beezil
:D

H-E-I-M-S S-U-C-K was too long of a word to make an affordable t-shirt, so i changed it to

J-N-J S-U-X

you want one?

Two, do they come in extra large?

[Beezil]

Yella'.....

I've used(and experiemented) with several TRE's, and the two numbers that stick in my head are:

375 L&R

and 150 L&R

both of these have a 3/4-16 thread, which is what you probably want if you are going to tap or weld-bung your DOM.....

the 150 has a taper close to, if not exactly what the jeep knuckle is....(I'm pulling this out of my crappy memory bank....this is my spobi release form)

the 375's have a bigger taper, something like .770 major/.660 minor, and a tapered reamer would be needed to enlarge your knuckle opening.

also, the 375's have a dogleg....

I have both pairs sitting in the basement if you need a pic.

I have a bunch of other tre's but I've ruled them out for use in previous projects....I'll have to remember why.

[JeepFreak21]

Originally posted by JeepFreak21
I've been doing the same research. Here's what I've got:
part numbers:
ES2233L
ES2234R
ES2027L
ES2026R

Those should be both ends for the tie rod and drag link. I believe they're from an '85 Blazer. The taper on the ends is 7*. The threads are 7/8-18 right and left hand.
I'm going to use 1.25" DOM with an ID of 1" and weld in some inserts that accept the TREs. You can do that or get smaller ID DOM and tap it.

Hope that helps :D

I mean 1.5" OD :D I don't think I want a 1/8" wall :rolleyes:

[Grant]

Try Scott @ Rockstomper.

He will drill and tap the end of tube, and has the TRE's in stock.

[xj4rocks]

Tim at shakerbuilt has the lengths and everything for a typical XJ lifted setup. I think they were something like $140 shipped to me for the draglink and tie rod. If you're using the 7/8" shank TRE's mentioned above.

I ran the taper down through the stock knuckle to fit the larger chevy taper. Had to cut off the steering stab mount and the sway bar tabs and relocate but that's not a huge deal.

pics at http://xj4rocks.dyndns.org/xj4rocks/tech/steering/index.htm

[xjjunkie]

i just finished my threaded tube sleeves for my 3/4 ton tre convertion. using tre's from a dodge moog #es2010L & es2010R
they are 7/8-18 thread
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/p7819e675cbcaadf463ee50e3cbe1f511/fb1c319b.jpg

one is a right hand, and one is a left hand, going to make 1 long tie rod to connect between the wheels, then one from the pitman arm to the dana 44 high steer arm.

scot

[Lucas]

Those use a stock taper, right?

[xjjunkie]

no, going to have to ream the hole


scot

[XJEEPER]

Originally posted by Beezil
Yella'...

the 150 has a taper close to, if not exactly what the jeep knuckle is....(I'm pulling this out of my.................

Troy, the MOOG ES 150 tre's are standard Ford and Chevy 1/2 ton truck stuff, find them anywhere.
They are one taper size larger than the XJ so you'll have to ream the knuckle. I used them at all 4 points on my Paul Sinclair-inspired OTK inverted Y setup (yet to be Moab tested) with success. I used weld in bungs and .188 wall DOM (3/16) tube.

While there will be some arguement on the adequate DOM tube strength and wall thickness, it's all relative to tire size, terrain and wheeling style. If you tend to drive alot with the right foot or have big tires (bigger than 32's) or wheel in big rocks/trees/jump stuff then you may want to consider thicker wall DOM than I used. I personally think that anything larger than .250 wall DOM is overkill for an XJ, but there's always exceptions..........as mentioned earlier.
YMMV:)

[4ward]

I think 3/16" is very adequate. My tie rod is 1.25"/ .25"wall dom and it's taken a beating. It has broken a knuckle because it wouldn't bend first I believe. I used to run .120 wall but it bent everytime I took it out, but I wasn't worried about my knuckles breaking either.

[EricT]

Originally posted by JnJ
Some good info here. This is what Eric and my steering are based on:
http://www.vintagebronco.com/newberry/pages/tech/tre/tre2.html


Yeah, mine is 1.25 x .313 wall thick. Va doesn't allow steering parts to be welded tube inserts.

[vintagespeed]

Originally posted by JeepFreak21
I mean 1.5" OD :D I don't think I want a 1/8" wall :rolleyes:
Be sure you take this into account when you buy hi-steer arms and get them a little longer than normal. My 1.25 TR is about 1/2 away from the top edge of the diff cover at neutral position. A 1.5 TR would most likely hit the diff cover lock to lock. On the stock steering arms you'll most likely be all into the diff cover.

[Beezil]

junkie....
did you make those adapters?

if so, nice!

[YELLAHEEP]

Hey Thanks Guys! That's a whole bunch more info than I thought I'd get! Maybe I'll have something to show for your efforts by Moab!

Am I to assume that all the part #'s you guys gave are Moog parts or are some of those NAPA or? I suppose they can be cross referenced.

[EricT]

I got mine at Advance Auto, all with lifetime warranties

[xjjunkie]

bezill,
yea, turned out of solid stock,

and i have a question--- do you have to tie the end of thesteering shaft rod to the tie rod, or can you place it behind the tierod end on the high steer arm. is one better than the other.?