Ok, so I am buying a 00 xj off of a friend. He just put a long arm kit on it. The jeep is lifted 6" but does not have a SYE. There is a slight vibration/grinding sound under deceleration. and if you come to a stop then take off it kinda has a thump for about 5-8 seconds. He said it used to do it up to about 20 mph but he started to adjust the driveline angle and he got it to where it is right now and has not had time to mess with it since. I am just wondering how l go about fixing these issues and what is causing each one. Other than those issues it drives flawlessly. Thanks.
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Driveline vibration?
- Thread starter awdxtc
- Start date
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
I see a SYE kit in your future!!
anthrax323
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Antonio, TX
The grinding and vibration is almost certainly the slip yoke rattling on the transfer case output shaft (particularly if it happens at "neutral" throttle - such as when transitioning from acceleration to coasting, and to some extent the deceleration that follows).
Get an SYE. I put it off for too long on my XJ (sitting at about 4.5" of true lift in the rear) but am EXTREMELY happy to have it done. I went with a Tom Woods Super Duty SYE and XB-style double cardan driveshaft.
Get an SYE. I put it off for too long on my XJ (sitting at about 4.5" of true lift in the rear) but am EXTREMELY happy to have it done. I went with a Tom Woods Super Duty SYE and XB-style double cardan driveshaft.
anthrax323
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Antonio, TX
For the NP231, it's $575 for the Super Duty SYE and custom X-spline driveshaft (either booted, XB, or with a grease fitting, XC):
Above is the XB (booted). You can save $50 ($525 total) and go with an Advanced Adapters SYE, which is basically the same but comes with a yoke instead of a flange. The advantages of the Super Duty kit are as follow:
In either case, you'll get free UPS ground shipping. More details at Tom Woods' site:
http://www.4xshaft.com
Details about the Super Duty SYE warranty and whatnot here:
http://www.4xshaft.com/SD231.html
Pricing details for all options here:
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE_overview.html
I'm quite happy. Tom Woods has a hell of a reputation in the industry.
Now, as a cheaper alternative you can go with a hack-n-tap SYE and junkyard front XJ driveshaft (as it's double-cardan), but my concerns about this route are twofold:
Your call, though - whatever budget allows. Many people here run hack-n-tap SYEs with front driveshafts without incident, but it's just a matter of what you're comfortable with.
Above is the XB (booted). You can save $50 ($525 total) and go with an Advanced Adapters SYE, which is basically the same but comes with a yoke instead of a flange. The advantages of the Super Duty kit are as follow:
- Killer warranty. If you break it, they'll replace it and give you $100.
- Flanged output allows you to use different U-joints in the future if your build plans change.
In either case, you'll get free UPS ground shipping. More details at Tom Woods' site:
http://www.4xshaft.com
Details about the Super Duty SYE warranty and whatnot here:
http://www.4xshaft.com/SD231.html
Pricing details for all options here:
http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE_overview.html
I'm quite happy. Tom Woods has a hell of a reputation in the industry.
Now, as a cheaper alternative you can go with a hack-n-tap SYE and junkyard front XJ driveshaft (as it's double-cardan), but my concerns about this route are twofold:
- Hack-n-tap SYEs aren't reputed as being all that strong, however, failures are relatively few and far between. If you have a steady hand and good tools, you can probably make it pretty solid. Otherwise, you can grab a relatively cheap HD SYE option (such as Advanced Adapters or JB Conversions).
- The stock front XJ driveshaft does suit the needs in this case, but I have reservations about running a shaft that was designed to handle 50% of the engine's output only part of the time as a rear shaft (as then it deals with 100% of the engine's output in 2WD mode, and is technically under load 100% of the time).
Your call, though - whatever budget allows. Many people here run hack-n-tap SYEs with front driveshafts without incident, but it's just a matter of what you're comfortable with.
POSJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minot ND, Unfortunately
Damn a nice and informed post, very nice anthrax. Thanks for laying it all out there.
anthrax323
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Antonio, TX
Ha, thanks man. After many hours of reading and dozens of (sometimes stupid) questions on my part, I'm finally at the point where I can start returning the favor and contribute to others' knowledge. Now I'm happy to help and not be such a parasite in the
realm 
anthrax323
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Antonio, TX
Depends on the kinds of driving you do. If you see a lot of mud or sand and would like to be able to grease the drive shaft slip joint, go with the XC as you can effectively "clean" the union by adding new grease to purge the old/dirty/contaminated grease. This option requires more routine maintenance.
The booted option (XB) is their generally recommended shaft, and would probably be ideal if you don't seek out mud and your rig sees a lot of street driving. It can still be greased/serviced, but not as readily as the XC can. This is more of a low-maintenance alternative.
The booted option (XB) is their generally recommended shaft, and would probably be ideal if you don't seek out mud and your rig sees a lot of street driving. It can still be greased/serviced, but not as readily as the XC can. This is more of a low-maintenance alternative.