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Bolt On Steering Options

97stomper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Minnesota
97 Cherokee with 122k miles...During the installation of my lift I replaced some of the TRE boots that were split with Energy Suspension TRE boots and one Dorman rubber boot. I've got 5" of lift and have only put about 3k miles on since the boots were installed. My steering system is stock...no drop pitman, etc. I don't have any noticable bumpsteer or any DW. I have the IRO HD TracBar with drop bracket.

The Dorman boot that I installed on the drag link connection at the knuckle is split all the way from top to bottom and the TRE that connects to the drag link has a poly boot that is split about half way up from the widest diameter.

1. I think the angle on the drag link is severe enough to be causing the "universal" boot to over compress resulting in the split.
2. I have no idea how old the TREs and drag link components are. They don't have a ton of play, but I can grab them and rotate them by hand within their range of motion.

So, with this information. It would seem like I need to get a drop pitman arm at least to reduce the angle on the drag link. But let's say I want to go one step further and replace the drag link, tie rod and TRE's....

I want something that is a no mod to easy mod install and that I can get replacement parts for at the local auto parts stores. That means that I don't want to have to ream out pitman arms or knuckles, or remove/weld on brackets, or need to buy other things like wheel spacers or wheels to decrease my backspacing.

What say you?

Thanks,

Rob
 
You never said what size lift you installed? You also mentioned you had a tracbar with drop bracket but NO drop pitman arm. I'm guessing your tracbar and drag link angles are not perrelel to each other causing some steering issues.:dunno: V8 G. cherokee has a bigger tie rod. Bolts right in.
 
I've got 5" of lift and have only put about 3k miles on since the boots were installed. My steering system is stock. I have the IRO HD TracBar with drop bracket.

The Dorman boot that I installed on the drag link connection at the knuckle is split all the way from top to bottom and the TRE that connects to the drag link has a poly boot that is split about half way up from the widest diameter.

1. I think the angle on the drag link is severe enough to be causing the "universal" boot to over compress resulting in the split.

So, with this information. It would seem like I need to get a drop pitman arm at least to reduce the angle on the drag link. But let's say I want to go one step further and replace the drag link, tie rod and TRE's....

I want something that is a no mod to easy mod install and that I can get replacement parts for at the local auto parts stores. That means that I don't want to have to ream out pitman arms or knuckles, or remove/weld on brackets, or need to buy other things like wheel spacers or wheels to decrease my backspacing.

I bet that the drag link's TREs, especially at the pitman arm, are maxed out when you are fully or even partially drooped.
The Currie drag link TREs are bent to allow more downward droop before hitting their limits. It is probably the easiest way to upgrade your steering while eliminating the boot problem. The Currie tie rod is much stronger than the hollow stock tie rod.
Changing to a dropped pitman arm changes the steering geometry and can cause bump steel unless the trac bar is moved upward, on the axle, to bring the drag link and trac bar back into parallel alignment. It's a major project.
 
Go back to Iron Rock and look at their steering system, looks fairly easy to do and get rid the inverted y steering setup so you don't have to mess with the tie rod for changes in height.

Also look at JCR, they have fairly decent systems as well. They use the Chevy one ton TRE I think.
 
I like my Currie steering. Beefy as heck and it is truly "bolt on". However, you're not going to find replacement TRE's at your local parts store. They need to be purchased from Currie as their design is part of what gives the Currie set up its strength and range of motion while still using the stock tapers on your pitman arm and knuckles.
 
My IRO track bar bracket drops the track bar 3/4" at the frame, so technically, my angles don't match anymore (or as close as they were stock), so maybe a drop pitman arm and upgrading to the ZJ V8 tie rod setup is my least expensive solution.

Throwing this next one out there now since if I upgrade all parts, it'll likely run me over $250 for all new parts:

What about something like Ballistic Fab's steering kits with rod ends...I know they don't carry rod ends at auto parts stores either, but since Currie gets so many votes and you can't buy that stuff there either....

I'm thinking this will do the trick though...along with a pitman arm: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Upper-Lower-Ball-Joint-TIE-ROD-Grand-Cherokee-1998-8Cyl-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f57029f4QQitemZ300470512116QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
Agreed, but that thing is VERY expensive if I remember correctly.

But it works very well. No dead spot, no toe-in change as the suspension travels up and down, no binding. I am running 7.5” of lift and 35’s, I can do 85mph and it handles better than my stock ZJ.
Everything that ORO makes is top notch and worth the money
 
Plus, I thought I read that you can't use stock wheels with it due to interference with the knuckle brackets...

I don't want to have to buy new wheels or spacers AND this extremely expensive steering solution...

It is a really cool idea though...
 
Plus, I thought I read that you can't use stock wheels with it due to interference with the knuckle brackets...

I don't want to have to buy new wheels or spacers AND this extremely expensive steering solution...

It is a really cool idea though...

You ready correctly. Although I had to run my stock wheels with this steering setup in order to pass inspections (tires stick out too far). With some serious grinding, I got the stock wheels to fit. But I would really only recommend the ORO setup if you're going to run aftermarket wheels. Good luck.
 
X2 on the Currie set up, I have it & very happy!
 
The ORO steering seriously changes the Ackerman angle, if anyone cares about that.....would create a bad Ackerman angle. Other than that it looks good, but the track bar would need to be raised, so not totally bolt on. Like has been said, the Currie is hard to beat......bolt on, good joint clearance, strong components.

People talk about eliminating the inverted Y, but it works well. Positive steering since the drag link goes straight to the knuckle. Who cares about a little toe change as the suspension cycles, it has no negative effect. Who cares about a little toe change if you change the lift height, setting the tow is easy to do yourself. Getting better drag link angles is a good thing, getting stronger components is a good thing, getting more travel out of the steering joints is a good thing, getting rid of the inverted Y accomplishes little to nothing.
 
I went the zj route.. works good for me. Much more solid.. ill run it till I break it. I spent much less than the currie setup and it works much better than my stock steering.. I got the drag link and tie rod from the JY and then new moog hd TRE's from kraigen. In my opinion it makes a big difference! Plus I can go to any auto parts store for tre's. Here's a good link
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=944708

DSC04729.jpg
 
Goatman I know you are a fan of inverted-Y and yes ORO changes the Ackerman angle. I notice it in concrete parking lots and when I run barrel races, the front end will push. I did not raise my track bar a first, bump steer was barely noticeable. When I went to the JKS track bar mount I drill a new hole below the stock holes and used a RE drop pitman arm. My drag link and track bar are now about as perfect as it can be now and have no bump steer or dead spots.
With inverted-Y the tie rod is push up at angle it the middle of the drag link, I see this as enough force to flex the drag link and this flex can contribute to Death Wobble, but that is just my opinion.
There are lots of options to improve the steering on an XJ. ORO is one that I know works well. Yeas it expensive, so are Deaver springs .
 
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