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COXJ
September 11th, 2003, 20:52
ok ball joints question
1 are they sposda spin when there is no presure on them?
2 is the lower one suposda wabble?
3 what would it cost to get new ones pushed in if i got new ones?
THanks all

WIll

Fletchs90xj
September 11th, 2003, 22:39
The post will spin, that what your steering piviots on. It should not wobble, that is bad. and I paid 55 for uppers 60 for lowers.(CND $ of coarse) And then rented a press from a tool rental place for $20.
the quote I got on parts and labour from one shop was around 900CND
hope that helps a bit
(easy job just need the right tools to make it easy)

COXJ
September 12th, 2003, 05:02
ya the upper is fine but the lower kinda acts like a tie rod end. and if this still isnt normal were can i find how to get the old one out and the new one in? thanks

WIll

Fletchs90xj
September 12th, 2003, 06:50
Its in the FSM if you don't have one I could e-mail you those pages if that helps, but basicaly what you have to do is.....
-take off the axle nut/cotter pin/retainer using a 36mm socket
-take off the wheel
-take off the break caliper/rotor
-remove the 3 12 point bots that hold the hub on (they either 12 pt 13mm or 12 pt 10mm I can't remember
-pull the hub off ( a gear puller helps huge here)
-drain the front diff/suck flid out
-pull out the axle shaft (no c clip on the front so you don't have to remove the diff cover)
-diconnect the tie rod from the knuckle
-remove the abs sensor wire from the knuckle (if ya have one (be careful the bolt head can easy snap off mine did but I don't have ABS anymore))
-remove top and bottom cotter pin/nuts from the ball joint studs (leave the nut on there on the last couple threads so when it separates it dosen't hit the ground)
-separate the knuckle (ball joint splitter helps here)
-put the press on the ball joint (looks like a giant C-clamp with cups on it)
-press out old top one
-press out old bottom one
-press in new bottom one
-press in new top one
-reinstall all the above

it took me about 2hrs a side. I did all four cause I didn't want to worry about them or have to do it again when the next one went
you could use a heavy duty C-clamp and some different sized pipe of sockets to do the pressing but its much easier to rent the press

HTH Fletch
hope I didn't miss any steps

azxjman
September 12th, 2003, 16:02
Or you can just buy the whole front end set like I did for 150 bucks then you dont have to rent single tools.

COXJ
September 12th, 2003, 16:47
do you think i may have busted it when i beat the knuckle off? or did it just ware out? and how are you suposda keep the lower greesed? there is no fitting.?

WIll

LT1XJ
September 12th, 2003, 18:33
Lowers are usually not greasable, new one probably will be though. Also on the hub, I usually just leave the hub on the axle and take the whole assembly off.
Dustin

COXJ
September 12th, 2003, 18:41
the unit berring comes right off if ya have a wheel puller. and im gonna run to get the stuff to do all this tomaro. thanks guys

WIll

Fletchs90xj
September 13th, 2003, 00:01
to each his own I guess
on the lowers the grease nipple supplied got in the way on the U joint so i greased it and then capped it off with the supplied cap. I'll grease it when I change the diff fluid I guess by pulling the axles and putting on a grease point.

LT1XJ
September 13th, 2003, 17:55
Sometimes the hubs are not a big deal, at least if you have done them before. The first time I did mine, I broke a puller on it. I usually don't find it neccessary to separate it for something like balljoints.
Dustin

Fletchs90xj
September 14th, 2003, 01:06
I too have brocken a puller on the hubs when i pulled them to do the diff seals. com'e to think of it i never thought of leaving the huds on the axle. If I ever have to do it again I'll keep that in mind since they came off really easy the second time around.