started swapping in a CSF 3 core, couple questions

First of all I think its crazy how fast you can make a cherokee look like its a pile of parts:



This is the point im at in the swap right now. I just cut the trans lines, Im going to run them through the aux. B&M cooler only.

What kind of plugs do I need to plug the in radiator trans cooler??

Also, I need a replacement upper rubber mount, the bolt snapped in half. This is what the good one looks like:


would it be worthwhile to replace all 4 rubber isolators? (2 top rectangular ones, 2 lower round ones)

Also Im getting alot of ideas:

--Do you think the stock steering pump would hold up to a hydraulic winch? Im thinking Its time to swap in a PSC pump and Gen Right pulley while every thing is open.

--YJ steering box? really dont like the stock variable ratio.

--ZJ napa fan clutch worth the effort? The fan does not spin freely when it is off, does this mean the clutch is bad... or is that normal. spins easily, but does not continue to spin.

--Then while im at it, should I replace the idler pully. The only reason I ask this is because the original idler pully in my dads 2000 TJ exploded last winter and left him stranded, should I just do it now?

Thanks.

You can use plastic plugs to keep the dust out of the cooler ports. Replacing the isolators can't hurt but if the old ones are not dry rotted they'll be fine. I don't think the stock PS pump is adequate for a hydraulic winch. I use a Durango steering box and I am quite happy with it. The ZJ fan clutch is more heavy duty than the stock XJ one. If the idler is not making noise then you don't need to replace it unless you just want the peace of mind.

austinaubinoe said:

What kind of plugs do I need to plug the in radiator trans cooler??

Click to expand...

nothing, or whatever you want, corks, bottle caps, RTV, fittings, bits of hose and bolts, you name it. Or plumb the non-pressurized return line from the P/S box through it. You'll need more power steering fluid but cooling that fluid helps its life and that of the pump and box significantly.

austinaubinoe said:

Also, I need a replacement upper rubber mount, the bolt snapped in half.

Click to expand...

I hit the junkyard when I broke one of these (the bolt fell out of the rubber) - they looked at me funny when I tried to pay. You could also pick them up from the dealer as part number 5200 2585 (2 required) if you wanted.) I haven't found the lower rubber grommet part number for the 6cyl yet but it's 5300 0511 for the 4cyl, I just reused mine since they were in fine condition.

I found that team cherokee carries both the lower radiator isolators.

The lower ones are $17 a pair!!! The upper ones are $5 each. The lower ones are fine though.

kastein said:

nothing, or whatever you want, corks, bottle caps, RTV, fittings, bits of hose and bolts, you name it. Or plumb the non-pressurized return line from the P/S box through it. You'll need more power steering fluid but cooling that fluid helps its life and that of the pump and box significantly.

Click to expand...

have you rerouted the PS fluid? I thought about it and I would rather get a separate cooler for the PS so I never have a problem of coolant mixing with anything. Corks sound perfect!

How long do does the following last? ( just trying to make my life a little easier by replacing them now if needed)

-idler pully-----water pump-----fan clutch.

Im thinking do the ZJ clutch and standard idler for the heck of it. I eventually want to buy a high performance pump when the stock one wears out. Hesco most likely (that propeller is SWEET!)

BTW im at about 160,xxx miles, but a 97 block was installed by the PO. Dont know what bolt ons he changed, so I will assume all have 160K.

austinaubinoe said:

First of all I think its crazy how fast you can make a cherokee look like its a pile of parts:

This is the point im at in the swap right now. I just cut the trans lines, Im going to run them through the aux. B&M cooler only.

What kind of plugs do I need to plug the in radiator trans cooler??

Also, I need a replacement upper rubber mount, the bolt snapped in half. This is what the good one looks like:

would it be worthwhile to replace all 4 rubber isolators? (2 top rectangular ones, 2 lower round ones)

Also Im getting alot of ideas:

--Do you think the stock steering pump would hold up to a hydraulic winch? Im thinking Its time to swap in a PSC pump and Gen Right pulley while every thing is open.

--YJ steering box? really dont like the stock variable ratio.

--ZJ napa fan clutch worth the effort? The fan does not spin freely when it is off, does this mean the clutch is bad... or is that normal. spins easily, but does not continue to spin.

--Then while im at it, should I replace the idler pully. The only reason I ask this is because the original idler pully in my dads 2000 TJ exploded last winter and left him stranded, should I just do it now?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

-Unless You have some more or equivalent motor mounts , you may not want to install the hd fan clutch (should have resistance when warm) The motor moves a bit and space is limited. .

- I did the yj swap, and hated it. always steering man, always. Noticed zero improvement other than the mounting.

-as for the top the mounts I drilled through the rubber and used a normal bolt, ground out some rubber on the other size to countersink the nut. seemed to work well!.

- I ran a B&M cooler in front of the rad inline with the stock rad cooler, to keep it from overcooling in the winter

austinaubinoe said:

have you rerouted the PS fluid? I thought about it and I would rather get a separate cooler for the PS so I never have a problem of coolant mixing with anything. Corks sound perfect!

Click to expand...

nope, haven't done so. Might do it on my next rig (the 98) when I start building it, no new upgrades are going on the 96 I'm just wheeling it till it dies then building the 98. Haven't decided if I'm going to do individual coolers for all fluids or use the in-radiator cooler on that one, but I'll PROBABLY use a separate PS cooler and put the tranny fluid through the stock cooler + an external (ZJ, WJ, or explorer) aux plate cooler.

I thought about keeping the stock rad cooler, but it doesn't get below zero in my area very often. Plus I have a temp gauge to Ill know if somethings up.


BCMaxx---- You really hated the swap? I wanted to do it because the unibody is starting to crack, and I wanted to use the JKS Yj box mount.

Oh and who runs fan shrouds? Honestly, they way fan shrouds just take up space really annoys me. I dont know what the PO did, but the current shroud is divided into 5 pieces all connected by zip ties .

so no shroud or new shroud ($50).

kastein said:

nope, haven't done so. Might do it on my next rig (the 98) when I start building it, no new upgrades are going on the 96 I'm just wheeling it till it dies then building the 98. Haven't decided if I'm going to do individual coolers for all fluids or use the in-radiator cooler on that one, but I'll PROBABLY use a separate PS cooler and put the tranny fluid through the stock cooler + an external (ZJ, WJ, or explorer) aux plate cooler.

Click to expand...

Do you think the heat-sink coolers are worth it? or do the cheap fin coolers do the job?

OR should I order another B&M stacked plate cooler like I have for my trans... smaller of course.

bcmaxx said:

-Unless You have some more or equivalent motor mounts , you may not want to install the hd fan clutch (should have resistance when warm) The motor moves a bit and space is limited. .

- I did the yj swap, and hated it. always steering man, always. Noticed zero improvement other than the mounting.

-as for the top the mounts I drilled through the rubber and used a normal bolt, ground out some rubber on the other size to countersink the nut. seemed to work well!.

- I ran a B&M cooler in front of the rad inline with the stock rad cooler, to keep it from overcooling in the winter

Click to expand...

Oh and I have some brown dog Super mounts heading my way as we speak! Guessing you think the ZJ fan clutch is a worthwhile mod?

Did you say your frame was starting to crack around your steering box?? I just put in one of the C-rok steering box spacers, and compared to the aluminum POS the factory used it should eliminate the possibility of frame cracks for good. (since you have so much taken apart already.......)

Once cracks start it is all over unless you stop-drill the ends (to keep them from growing worse) and weld them back up. Otherwise they will just grow and grow.