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Problem removing radiator:

HMGanja

NAXJA Forum User
Location
N.C.
Hello all. First of all I tried searching and found nothing. I am in the process of removing the radiator from my '99 4.0/AW4. Got everything off and radiator totally loose execpt for the drivers side tranny line (on the bottom). Loosend and removed the nut but the line itself WILL NOT come out of the radiator. It will slide in and out about .5in (the lenght of the threads) but feels like there is something holding it inside the actuall radiator. Can anyone help me here? I have attached a pic of the culprit.
0fea765cfb6d.jpg
 
there is a quick disconnect fitting between the hard line and soft line-- I think the 90* hard line is a part of the internal cooler on the original radiator.
 
Tighten the nut back up ... it just holds the heat exchanger secure inside the radiator.
Picture here --> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/trans-cooler-questions-1089755/#post9969245

The line coming out of the radiator has a ridge around it ....

Inside the fitting on the tranny hose is a clip arrangement (plastic or metal)

You need a fuel line tool to expand the clip so the tranny hose can slide off the pipe from the heat exchanger in the radiator.
 
X2 on quick disconnect fitting...and speaking from experience...try to find the thinest quick release tool you can find.

I found some plastic ones at Oreilys that worked fairly well. Since the space there is tight, you'll need something that can bend and flex...the metal ones don't work out so well...at least for me ('00XJ).
 
My '95 has a plastic piece in that coupling already, like maybe that's what aids in the disconnect... :dunno:
 
those quick disconnects are made in Hell and consist entirely of pain, suffering, and frustration. They do not disconnect and are by no means quick so I'm not really sure why they are called that.

Once you get it off, the radiator should come out fine though.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I think im gonna just cut it off though. Its so corroded that I dought it even comes apart. Replace with a couple hose clamps and a small piece of hardline and rubber hose.... Anything wrong with that?
 
Go for it... if the existing hose is long enough just clamp that one. It will be tough to get the hse past the ridge on the metal line, force it on there about half an inch past. Put a hose clamp before and after the ridge and it will go nowhere, two of my jeeps have that setup and the other is getting it when I replace the lines.

Remember to put the hose clamps on the line first... don't ask how I learned that one.
 
Ok I may be way off here but I'm not sure if cutting it would be the best idea simply because you tranny works on pressure of the fluid to shift and the pressure may be too great for regular hose clamps atleast for long term use. Now there may not be much pressure in those lines and I could be completely wrong but the quick disconnect removal tool is inexpensive and you can buy individual sizes at some local autoparts and even sears I believe. The are a few other quick disconnects connections like this one that the tool could come in handy for like where the fuel line meets the fuel rail when you need to remove the connection there to do anything from changing injectors, pulling the intake manifold to change the gasket or change the exhaust manifold, or even upgrading the intake manifold to the newer design like I did on my 97 but with yours being a 99 I'm pretty sure you already have that one. That is just my .02. Ghetto rigging isn't always the best option haha
 
I have a total of over 35 thousand miles on two different vehicles with it "ghetto rigged", if you get the hose clamps tight enough it's not a problem at all. It's preferable to use full-circle fuel injection type hose clamps rather than regular hose clamps, but one of mine has regulars on it and hasn't leaked yet...

The real important part is to get the hose over the ridge on the line and put a clamp on the other side. Do that, and as long as the clamp doesn't fail, there is absolutely no way the hose is coming off.
 
Ok I may be way off here but I'm not sure if cutting it would be the best idea simply because you tranny works on pressure of the fluid to shift

There is almost zero pressure on those lines. Fluid enters the radiator at the bottom, comes out the top of the radiator and then flows freely into the trans pan. Cut and hose-clamp it. While you're at it inspect the rest of the hard lines back to the tranny. The clamps that secure them sometimes wear through the line and start leaking.
 
those quick disconnects are made in Hell and consist entirely of pain, suffering, and frustration. They do not disconnect and are by no means quick so I'm not really sure why they are called that.

Once you get it off, the radiator should come out fine though.

I think they should be called quick-connects. They are common because they are quick to connect on the assembly line.
 
liberal amounts of penertrating oil, use the correct tool. Thequick disconnect tools available at any parts store. When you go to reinstall it put a dab of anitsize or wheel bearing grease on the tabs that will help it lock back on. Usually when the line is hard to come off its hard to lock back on. The grese will help get it to lock on and prevent it from popping off or being a pain on the way off again.
 
I've been reading for a while and I haven't seen anyone talk about the lower connector that attaches the electric fan to the bottom of the radiator.

Is that a squeeze connector or a screw?
Also disconnecting the electric connector for the e fan didn't seem real plain to me.
 
Bump for the work crowd.
I know this is simple stuff you you guys but not finding the answer anywhere else including the FSM, at a standstill for the moment.

"I've been reading for a while and I haven't seen anyone talk about the lower connector that attaches the electric fan to the bottom of the radiator.

Is that a squeeze connector or a screw?
Also disconnecting the electric connector for the e fan didn't seem real plain to me."
 
1. please don't bump, it's against the rules.
2. reposting the same question just fills the thread up...
3. I have no idea what connector you're talking about, that is why I didn't answer the first time. Are you talking about the tabs on the fan housing that push into the slots on the radiator? And the electrical connector is just a regular jeep connector... unconnect it.
 
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