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ZJ Steering Upgrade?

U

Ulver44

NAXJA Forum User
Location
nc
I bent the tie-rod on my 89 xj and am trying to decide what to buy on the cheap as a replacement. I found this system from Crown:

Crown (Stock ZJ) $177.95
http://shoplive.rompalicious.com/cr...tml?m1track=googlebase&language=en#googlebase

The Crown link says it will fit 91-01 XJ, but this link says 84-01.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STEE...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f065e8d6

I think it will bolt on my 89, I just want to be sure.

Do I have other options sub $200? I would like off the shelf TRE's without drilling/reaming involved, but I want it to hold up. I don't do rock crawling, though somehow I bent the tie-rod I have. If the ZJ tie-rod is just going to pretzel again (I read that solid stock is not as strong as tube), should I just buy a new DOM tie-rod from somewhere and keep the draglink I have? Do people bend draglinks?

I have a 3" lift with 31's and don't plan to go bigger.
 
Got My V8 ZJ tie rod at the Louisville PullAPart for 15 bucks. Been on a year and it's like new.

"(I read that solid stock is not as strong as tube)".

Don't believe everything You read. That is a pretty big load of Horse Hockey.
 
clean4drxj said:
if you really want good steering you'll invest in a WJ swap.
Click to expand...

yes he could do it but at only 3" and 31's its not even close to necessary. plus thats a pretty pricey mod, when he said he was looking for cheap upgrade
 
hit the junkyard... same thing costs 10-20 dollars, I have gotten 2 for 10 bucks each and 1 for 20.

Buy some new cotter pins (1/8" by 1.5" stainless steel) for like a buck at home depot, grab your 7/8 socket, 15mm socket, and pipe wrench, toss it on and reset your toe and you are golden. Oh, put some new grease on it.
 
alot of guys uograde their steering to the V8 ZJ linkage. I have one on mine, as does my bro on his TJ. They are a very worthwhile upgrade.
 
kastein said:
hit the junkyard... same thing costs 10-20 dollars, I have gotten 2 for 10 bucks each and 1 for 20.

Buy some new cotter pins (1/8" by 1.5" stainless steel) for like a buck at home depot, grab your 7/8 socket, 15mm socket, and pipe wrench, toss it on and reset your toe and you are golden. Oh, put some new grease on it.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm going to a new pick-n-pull today. Is it only 93-98 V8 ZJ's that have the right parts?
 
Yep... 93-98 I6 ZJs have the same stock tie rod you already have, and the steering setup on WJs is completely different (and much better, but will cost several hundred dollars to swap over.)
 
Hey, I just picked up a draglink, tie-rod and shock stabilizer for 14.99 with good rod ends! Should I have got the pitman arm also? I read that it's 1" longer than the XJ's, but I think it would be a pain to get off. Would using it keep me from needing an aftermarket trackbar with ~3" lift?

I also saw what looked like a lifted xj in the yard so I measured the coils in the front and they were 17" long under the vehicle's weight. How much lift would that be? I know they are longer than the v8 up country grand cherokee coils I'm using now.
 
Last edited:
Don't need the pitman arm.

The best way to tell about those springs is to go back and measure from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender flare (must be stock flare). Anything over 17.5 inches equals the amount of lift. The jeep needs to be sitting pretty level though.
 
Ulver44 said:
Hey, I just picked up a draglink, tie-rod and shock stabilizer for 14.99 with good rod ends! Should I have got the pitman arm also? I read that it's 1" longer than the XJ's, but I think it would be a pain to get off. Would using it keep me from needing an aftermarket trackbar with ~3" lift?

I also saw what looked like a lifted xj in the yard so I measured the coils in the front and they were 17" long. How much lift would that be? I know they are longer than the v8 up country grand cherokee coils I'm using now.
Click to expand...

No need for Pitman arm at 3". Trac bar would be a plus but you can always redrill the hole (axle side) to align the axle.

Not sure about the coils. Its 17" from hub to fender flare on stock xj. This of course assumes the one in the yard has flares.
 
DeftwillP said:
Don't need the pitman arm.

The best way to tell about those springs is to go back and measure from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender flare (must be stock flare). Anything over 17.5 inches equals the amount of lift. The jeep needs to be sitting pretty level though.
Click to expand...

I don't think the fenders were cut, but I don't think it had flares.
 
Last edited:
RadioShackSpecial said:
No need for Pitman arm at 3". Trac bar would be a plus but you can always redrill the hole (axle side) to align the axle.

Not sure about the coils. Its 17" from hub to fender flare on stock xj. This of course assumes the one in the yard has flares.
Click to expand...

Redrilling the track bar mount sounds like a good idea. Does having a misaligned axle increase tire wear at all?
 
Not sure about tire wear. The axle being out of alignment will cause the xj to 'dog' walk. Meaning you will be driving down the street at an angle. I believe the most you can move the trac bar over is about 3/4" for the stock bracket. An adjustable trac bar is preferred but re-drilling will suffice for 3" lift.

I also went with ZJ steering. I dont play in the rocks but I have never had any issues with it in the mud.
 
jamiemac said:
Got My V8 ZJ tie rod at the Louisville PullAPart for 15 bucks. Been on a year and it's like new.

"(I read that solid stock is not as strong as tube)".

Don't believe everything You read. That is a pretty big load of Horse Hockey.
Click to expand...

Well, after further reading :read::looser: (maybe still horse hockey), solid stock is stronger, but per pound, DOM is stronger. Tube is 87.5% the strength of solid, meaning you lose 12.5% of your strength while saving 37% of the weight.

I went with the ZJ set-up, but have yet to beat on it.
 
Ulver44 said:
Well, after further reading :read::looser: (maybe still horse hockey), solid stock is stronger, but per pound, DOM is stronger. Tube is 87.5% the strength of solid, meaning you lose 12.5% of your strength while saving 37% of the weight.

I went with the ZJ set-up, but have yet to beat on it.
Click to expand...
Now Ya have it.:thumbup:
 
Did the upgrade today, must say i love it.. much stronger, and no more play in my steering. I got the moog tre's and i will say i am glad i did. I got the tie rod and drag link from a jy and then de-greased it completely then pressure washed it then pained it with a grey hammered finish. Not only is it pretty for the mall, but the steering feels much more solid! well worth the little money and time put into this upgrade!!!!!
 
Ulver44 said:
Well, after further reading :read::looser: (maybe still horse hockey), solid stock is stronger, but per pound, DOM is stronger. Tube is 87.5% the strength of solid, meaning you lose 12.5% of your strength while saving 37% of the weight.

I went with the ZJ set-up, but have yet to beat on it.
Click to expand...
That is much more believable. It's all in how you shape the material - the further from the centerline it is, the more "leverage" it has so even though it has the same yield strength, it is stronger. That's why trusses are used, why bridge trestles are built the way they are, why tube is used... etc.
 
I just ordered the ironman4x4fab tie rod.. uses the beefier TRE's and no reaming required.
$75 shipped for the tie rod and the TRE's are about 15$ each.
I was thinking about the ZJ tie rod route, but this was a cheaper/better option.
 
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