PDA

View Full Version : isit worth it and if so anyone need? 78-79 For F250 High pinion 44 with flattop knuck


RWKHausSupply
November 22nd, 2006, 07:47
78-79 For F250 High pinion 44 with flattop knuckles from a Chevy already machined and drilled, stock axles w/chevy outers, and Brand new in the box warn HD Hubs.
$300

cal
November 22nd, 2006, 08:34
How is it geared?

RWKHausSupply
November 22nd, 2006, 08:37
oh crap sorry forgot to link to the ad

http://www.jeepaholics.com/support/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51913

It doesnt say what gears.. I dont think it has a carrier at all..

cracker
November 22nd, 2006, 08:40
That one has cast radius arm brackets in it :shocked:

cal
November 22nd, 2006, 08:42
That one has cast radius arm brackets in it :shocked:

Your on crack, he said F250. It's the exact same as the one sitting in my driveway right now. You know, the one you kept wanting to rob parts off of to upgrade your puny f150 44.. :)

cracker
November 22nd, 2006, 08:45
Your on crack, he said F250. It's the exact same as the one sitting in my driveway right now. You know, the one you kept wanting to rob parts off of to upgrade your puny f150 44.. :)

Actually, I was not interested in anything other than the dual caliper brake brackets.

I didn't notice the 250 part thought

In 1977.5 Ford’s new F250 axle now started to appear. Previously, the F250 ran a standard rotation closed knuckle axle (see reference pictures below.) This axle for the F250 44RS is slightly different than the F100 & F150 offered in 1977. The F250 is a little wider than the F100 & F150, for the wider 8 wheel bolt hub. The F250 also has 3" wide axle tubes with ½” thick tube walls, and the axle has many different small changes from the F100 & F150 to include larger brakes. This axle stayed this way until it changed to the Twin Traction Beam (TTB) IFS system of the 1980 model year.

sintax
November 22nd, 2006, 08:54
the axle is plenty beefy. Its essentially the same axle i'm running except that i'm running the ford outers. I'm assuming someone swapped the chevy's on to go with a different bolt pattern, since this axle comes stock with flat tops.

IF you choose to run it, keep in mind this is a VERY wide axle. I choose not to cut mine down and I'll determine down the road if that was a good choice or not.

To answer the question, for $300 its a decent deal. Assuming its complete and ready to run. This would be an even better deal if you were planning on running leafs up front, as its already setup for leafs. It also has the driver side leaf perch cast into the pumpkin. This sometimes causes some problems with space when you go to narrow the axle if you choose to. You'd have to figure that out some how. This is part of the reason i went with coil overs up front so space would be less of a concern.

sintax
November 22nd, 2006, 10:04
its also worth to note that this axle has 3" .500 wall tubes.

cracker
November 22nd, 2006, 10:08
I would NEVER touch a 44 again OR recommend a 44 to anyone. They are a piece of shit. Polish the 30 as much as possible (with 30 spline inners and outers) up to 35s then go front Dana 60 for the real beef (and fun). The most polished 44 can't really hold up to 37s (well).

cal
November 22nd, 2006, 13:35
Well.

You saw me build a 30. Wait until I build a 44 and re-evaluate that not holding up thing. :)

Although, there's already someone out there with a 35 spline 44 / 60 outers, which is about the route I'd have done, using the 3"x.5" tube and probably longfield shafts. Maybe next year.

For the record, strangly, my jeep stopped better before I did the WJ conversion, but I -LOVE- the steering.