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97 Jeep Cherokee brakes lock up...

Craigabooey

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New York
I have a 97' Jeep Cherokee, 4.0, auto tranny. The brakes have been locking up on me for some reason when I am only pressing lightly on the pedal. Its really dangerous in wet weather. I will come to a stop and just tap the pedal and the wheels lock up and I am sliding....I have new front brake pads. The front rotors were not replaced and they were gouged pretty bad when the last set of pads ran out of meat and started grinding into them. I just replaced the pads and hoped they would hold up for a while. The rear brakes are all new. New shoes, all hardware was replaced and even the wheel cylinders are new. I didnt replace the drums themselves beause they seemed ok (no gouges). Any thoughts? This is dangerous! If i ever have to stop short suddenly, theres gonna be a problem!

Craig
 
Replace the rotors... might have to replace the pads again as well now, if they have partially worn into the pattern from the old ones. Also check if the caliper slides are seized.
 
If it's your front wheels it's a caliper...If it's the rear wheels it's most likely a hardware issue. - (sometimes) they self adjust by going in reverse and firmly hitting the brakes to a stop 3-5 times.
 
If it is the rears locking up, most likely cheap shoes. They absorb moisture and grab, usually goes away after a few stops. Use a higher quality shoe if that is the case.
 
i would say thats a big problem.
check the calipers first.
did u replace them?
check the lines in the front just in case they are not allowing fluid back in the master cylinder.
when u pushed the caliper pistons back in was the cap off the master cylinder?
did the pistons go in exactly straight?
did you lube the slides on the caliper?

don't drive the thing til you fix it. i could be in front of you. good luck.
 
Ok, I'll ask:

ABS or non-ABS brakes?
 
lets see, no when I pushed the pistons back in the cylinders of the front calipers to put the new brake pads on the master cylinder cap was on. Fluid leaked out of it all over the place as I pushed the pistons in...how is that relevant? No I didnt lube anything. Wouldnt the lube get all over the pads? What should I have lubricated? No they are the original calipers I did not replace those, just the rear wheel cylinders...
 
It's relevant because you're supposed to take the cap off the brake reservoir when compressing the pistons on the calipers because brake fluid backs through the lines and into the reservoir. You could have damaged the calipers if you didn't push the pistons straight back and instead pushed them back at an angle.

Did this happen before you fooled with the brakes?
 
lets see, no when I pushed the pistons back in the cylinders of the front calipers to put the new brake pads on the master cylinder cap was on. Fluid leaked out of it all over the place as I pushed the pistons in...how is that relevant? No I didnt lube anything. Wouldnt the lube get all over the pads? What should I have lubricated? No they are the original calipers I did not replace those, just the rear wheel cylinders...

OH. MY. UH, GOD! You have got to be kidding me. Please tell me you are a noob.

You obviously have a leaking seal on a caliper if fluid leaked out when you did the brakes. You put Lube on the backside of the pad and anything it contacts to cut down on the squealing.
 
hey a few words of advice here.

When growing up my brother and I had VW beetles to drive to school. So we learned that when you buy a rig first thing to go through is the brakes. Why? Because you are driving a missle that can cause serious injury or death. I see that you are working on your brakes good. we found it easiest to just replace the whole system since Vw's are known for having issues once the master cylinder has been run dry, these rigs sure felt like it. So the systems worked flawlessly.

sounds to me like you need to think about bleeding the lines. I just had one very similar and here is about how it went.

My soon to be mother-in-law's s10 was having issues.
Several months ago she had brake pads replaced front and rear with carquest el cheapo's and someone had topped off her fluid for her.
She now complained that the rig was weak and barely made it the 1 hour drive to town.
She asked me to replace the fuel filter, did that in a snap, and the fuel economy got better but the cel would still come on up long steep hills.
Most of that a gravel road in the summer and a mix of ice, snow and gravel in the winter.
I replaced the pads, free'd the siezed float pins greased appropriate items with caliper grease and replaced the rotors...since the rotors were hosed big time.
Then drove it around my block and the brakes were locking up. When it cooled down it was fine but when it got warm the brakes would lock up.
Well turned out that the rear passenger side had been a problem many times in the past so in bleeding the brakes I had to remove the bleeder on the pass rear and clear it of sediment, even though it had a cap on it.
Bled a bunch of air out of that side and flushed the whole system when I found out that someone had added powersteering fluid when they topped off the fluid for her a few months back.
I had to ask some q's because the fluid was dark green and smelled burned.
So your wondering why the comparison with the s10, small light rigs with about the same systems. brakes are simple, however at times they require 2 people to work on them.

Good luck on finding your problem and remember dot 3 only in the brake fluid as well as it should be clear and other color it needs to be changed out.
 
I think he meant that fluid leaked out the master cylinder reservoir, but I could be mistaken. :dunno:
that's how I read it too.

hey a few words of advice here.

When growing up my brother and I had VW beetles to drive to school. So we learned that when you buy a rig first thing to go through is the brakes. Why? Because you are driving a missle that can cause serious injury or death. I see that you are working on your brakes good. we found it easiest to just replace the whole system since Vw's are known for having issues once the master cylinder has been run dry, these rigs sure felt like it. So the systems worked flawlessly.

sounds to me like you need to think about bleeding the lines. I just had one very similar and here is about how it went.

My soon to be mother-in-law's s10 was having issues.
Several months ago she had brake pads replaced front and rear with carquest el cheapo's and someone had topped off her fluid for her.
She now complained that the rig was weak and barely made it the 1 hour drive to town.
She asked me to replace the fuel filter, did that in a snap, and the fuel economy got better but the cel would still come on up long steep hills.
Most of that a gravel road in the summer and a mix of ice, snow and gravel in the winter.
I replaced the pads, free'd the siezed float pins greased appropriate items with caliper grease and replaced the rotors...since the rotors were hosed big time.
Then drove it around my block and the brakes were locking up. When it cooled down it was fine but when it got warm the brakes would lock up.
Well turned out that the rear passenger side had been a problem many times in the past so in bleeding the brakes I had to remove the bleeder on the pass rear and clear it of sediment, even though it had a cap on it.
Bled a bunch of air out of that side and flushed the whole system when I found out that someone had added powersteering fluid when they topped off the fluid for her a few months back.
I had to ask some q's because the fluid was dark green and smelled burned.
So your wondering why the comparison with the s10, small light rigs with about the same systems. brakes are simple, however at times they require 2 people to work on them.

Good luck on finding your problem and remember dot 3 only in the brake fluid as well as it should be clear and other color it needs to be changed out.
X2 on all of the above... if you put anything except dot3 in a dot3 system, it most likely will swell and ruin all the seals, you'll be replacing all the cylinders and calipers, the prop valve, all hoses, and the prop valve and either flushing out or replacing all the hard lines as well. Expensive mistake to make!
 
First of all I'm not a noob you dummy, try reading my post when you arent high and you will see I said fluid came out of the MASTER CYLINDER as I pushed the pistons back in the bores of the front brake calipers. This is normal and has happened to any car I ever put new brake pads on. The pistons were pushed back in correctly. I have done this a million times. I figured since so many XJ owners have similar problems I figured i would ask about this braking problem too.
 
calling people names who are trying to help you for free = not much help offered

I mean no offense, but if you'd done a million brake jobs you would know to never replace pads on grooved or worn rotors.
 
Rethink your attitude. And do it fast.

You've been offered a bunch of good advice. I suggest that you take it. And frankly, I'm not impressed with what I'm reading in your posts. If you were anywhere near as good as you claim to be, you'd almost certainly have your problem solved by now.
 
Don't be such a jerk to the people providing you FREE technical advice. I guarantee you there are people here who know more about cars than you've forgotten *cough* joe *cough* :D
 
Sorry guys I wasnt directing that at all of you it was to the one guy who responded and said "OMG you must be a noob etc".....I appreciate everybodys advice and i thank you for it. However I don't appreciate somebody insinuating that I am a noob or responding to an honest question in such a disrespectful, derogatory matter. Be angry towards that guy not at me...
 
My only reason to question your know-how is the fact that you put new pads on a set of badly grooved rotors. That's (a) asking for a wrongful death suit and (b) a terrible idea (see part (a)). The pads and rotors wear to a matching profile, if you put new pads on old rotors without having them turned smooth again first (only possible when they have enough meat left to stay above minimum thickness) you get very little contact area and as a result, terrible braking performance till they grab and lock the wheels up.

The fact that you claim to have done this a lot (yet don't know that apparently), and know that this is unsafe but still drive it is what scares me.
 
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