Installing this track bar tomorrow...couple questions.

Trading out my first suspension part tomorrow and looking forward to it, nuts already broke loose, lots of PB. Trading out my old worn out OEM track bar for an OEM Moog, on my 96 XJ.

First question. The trucks up on ramps right now. With that in mind, should I expect any kind of lurching when I break the current track bar out? I just want to make sure there isn't any tension in the track bar right now that I'll be letting loose unexpectedly.

Second...that's a fairly tight spot up there by the frame bracket, so I'm not really sure if I'll be able to get the 81 N*m or 60 ft-lbs the FSM is calling for but I'll try. Any suggestions?

Third...the new piece came with a bag of parts including a nipple looking thing with threads on one end. The bag says 'attn: this bag may contain self tapping grease fittings for threaded and non-threaded holes. Lastly, there's a small hole in the new piece at the bottom of the end where it articulates with the frame bracket. I'm assuming I stick this nipple thing into a socket and thread it through that hole, and use it later to lubricate that joint? I know that's a really simple questions. I really do need to get up on lubing and get the right guns.

Thanks for the continued help.

#1 - yes. The vehicle will shift when you remove the track bar. In fact, I wouldn't do it on ramps. It might go fine, it might not. What I would do is get the weight off of the springs. It is easier to shove an axle around than the whole vehicle.
#2. I used a torque wrench and, IIRC, some 1/2" deep well sockets & a 6" extension. No problem. If you use an extension, though, dial the torque wrench for an additional 4 lbs or so to make up for the "twist" in the extension. Probably not needed, really, but that the "correct" way to do it.
#3 Correct. That nipple thingie is known as a "zerk" fitting, and I don't know why. You thread it in and then, every oil change or so, use a grease gun to lube the joint.

Actually-I've found that the track bar is under far more of a bind with the axle at droop. If you do it with the full weight on the springs there won't be any issue at all with the front end wanting to move over. On ramps with the rear end down at ground level there may be some shifting as the front end isn't fully weighted the same as on flat ground.

The one thing that can be a pain is making sure you can get the cotter pin in. I like to make sure the hole is indexed sideways and then apply upward pressure on the 'frame' end of the track bar to keep the two tapers seated and prevent the stud from rotating.

You could always remove the bracket completely and then reinstall with the new piece attached, but that's probably more trouble than it's worth.

I have always swapped track bars with the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels. Remove the old track bar, adjust the length of the new track bar as close as possible, and install the axle end. Next, have someone move the steering wheel left or right to center the axle and install the bracket side.

That gets it close. I then use a plumb bob hanging from the fenders and mark the spot on the tires to determine axle center. Fine adjustments can be made to the track bar, but it is always easiest to have someone move the steering wheel when removing/installing the track bar bolt. I'm sure this method will not sit well with many out there, but it works well enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Oh, the "zerk" got its name from the ancient thinker and poet, Zerkimenes (1500 BCE), who hailed from Greece. Quite fond of chariot races, as I recall.

rocknxj said:

Oh, the "zerk" got its name from the ancient thinker and poet, Zerkimenes (1500 BCE), who hailed from Greece. Quite fond of chariot races, as I recall.

Click to expand...

So, it's actually a "Greece Zerk"