Many people simply repeat what they read someplace on some forum and have no direct experience with the AAL. That said, success with an AAL lift can, and will, depend on the condition of your original leaf pack and with the AAL type used (short overload or long full leaf), and brand name of AAL.
A point to remember is that no matter what type of lift you use, you are still required to extend your bump stops. Over flexing any leaf spring will cut its lifespan dramatically, no matter what type of lift you install. Leaf springs simply cannot deal with the stress of over-flexing.
Ride stiffness is more dependent on your choice of shock absorbers and brand of lift parts, than on the actual type of lift parts, AAL vs brand new lift pack. All lifted vehicles will ride differently than stock and you should expect some compromises when driving a lifted Cherokee.
Lift blocks contribute to axle wrap and are the least desirable lift option. Lift blocks are also the most likely lift option to cause excessive leaf spring sagging due to the addition of axle wrap to the lift equation. An AAL does not contribute to axle wrap and will actually help prevent spring wrap.
A severely sagged stock leaf spring will in fact, be harder on any AAL than a stock leaf spring pack in decent condition. That is simple physics and plain common sense. A short AAL has to very stiff to lift the rest of the saggy stock leaves. I think the first AAL kits were the short leaf type and this may be where the bad ride, quickly sagging, stories started. A Short Leaf AAL also concentrates its lift in the area of the main leaf that is already under stress and prone to sagging, near the spring eyes. A Full Length AAL on the other hand, spans between both spring eyes and reduces the weight load each leaf below it has to carry. Spring sag usually begins at the ends of the main leaf near the spring eyes, and progresses to the smaller leaves flattening them out. The spring rate or stiffness of a full length AAL will be less than a short AAL. It will ride a little more firmly than stock, but shouldn't be objectionable with good quality shocks.
I have owned or helped my buddies repair or install all types of lift. Our local Cherokee club has 14 lifted rigs and I have built and owned 3 lifted Cherokees and a lifted CJ-7. I had extended shackles on my stock leaf packs and so did one of the local XJ's. A week long 4x4 trip proved that the extended shackles sagged and ruined the stock leaf springs very quickly. With a replacement lift spring that is designed to handle the extra flexing and load carrying of an off road trip, extended shackles are just fine and actually help smooth the ride and increase the flex. One of the local XJ's had 2" lift blocks and not only did the leaf spring sag, it went S shaped from axle wrap and then it cracked the main leaf in two. We just built a bastard pack for another Cherokee using an S-10 spring pack and the original Cherokee Main leaf. This set up works well on the road and trails and gives a little over 4 inches of lift.
I ran a Full Length 2.5 " AAL from Rubicon Express on my Cherokee with some un-sagged stock leaf packs along with an extra stock leaf. That netted me a little over 3 inches of lift. I ran this lift on two different week long trips to Moab, a week in central Colorado, and regularly hauled 300+ lbs of cargo. It did well on the trails and never sagged in the least in the 3 + years this set up was on my Cherokee. It was maybe 10-15% firmer than stock, but it was smooth on the roads. My current RE 3.5 Replacement Leaf Spring packs are smoother and flex better than the AAL but they also cost more than the $100 I spent buying and installing the RE 2.5" AAL.
The brand name of products you choose for your lift will have an effect on its lifespan and on the quality of ride, on or off road. The only way to make lift parts cheaper is to reduce the quality of the materials used to make those parts.